BritishV8 Forum

I probably already know the answer to this but thought I'd see if anyone has had a big problem with it.  At least for a while, I plan to use my stock rear end which I thought was a 3.73, but now understand it's a 3.909 and I'm concerned the (2.95) low gear in my (1352-200) 1989 Ford SVO Mustang WC (After Market) T-5 might not be tall enough for everyday traffic.  Eventually I plan to go with a 4-Link Ford rear end and a different ratio, but for now would prefer to put my money into parts I don't already have.

Actually, Paul the 2.95 first is what everybody wants with the stock 3.91 rear ratio. Best combo. If you had the 3.35 first, the taller 3.07 or 3.31 would be better.

Thanks Jim and Kelly, that puts my mind at rest; I'll still go with the Ford in the not too distant future.  The battery has been relocated so I plan to remove the old battery boxes which will open the area up a lot.  If I do is there enough room to use a 9" (which I have) rather than a 8.8 which I don't have?

Paul

Paul,

You can get a 9" Ford under there, but it is way heavier & way more rear than needed.

I know you're right Carl and they are very heavy.  All I really have is the 9" housing anyway so the amount of money I might save may not be worth it anyway.  I'll keep my eye open and see if I can pick up a 8" but like I say I'm not in a hurry, I'll use the MG RE for the time being and as I'm using a stock motor it should last me for a while.  When I come up with an idea that isn't all that well thought out you guys always set me straight, thank you!

Paul

Or use an aluminum third member.

I like that idea Carl and it would go a long way in reducing unsprung weight.  I'll look into it but it's probably outside my price range.

About $500 from Currie.  Don't look at the prices from Strange Engineering.

Actually that's not all that bad, much less than I would have thought and I could order it with the desired flange to flange length.  By the time I got the 9" under my old T-Bucket narrowed and chromed, it was more than that.  When I get to that point I think I'll seriously consider your advise, along with some moser axles and Wilwood brakes, Thanks Carl.


Paul

By third member, I mean the center section or gear case only, not the axle housing.

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/categoriesre.aspx?id=1027

As usual my brain wasn't working again, thanks Carl.

Paul,

I too, just this coming  weekend, am changing out a banjo type rear axle from an MG chassis - for a Ford 8 inch.  I'm using a true Ford 8 inch and not the 8.8 Ford nor the 9 inch Ford rear axle.  I feel the unsprung weight of the Ford 8.8 and the 9 inch is just too much.  Also, I have saved weight via a Currie 8 inch aluminum carrier. Aluminum hubs and rifle barrel axles save even more rear axle weight.

Downside of the Ford 8 inch  ..... hard to locate the 8 inch complete unit, the aluminum 8 inch carrier is hard to locate, too, and both are expensive. The Ford 8 inch needs to be shortened to 52 inches, (though I've created a 53 inch unit for my car).  I'm running a 3.78 Ford 8 inch ring and pinion

What are your thoughts on the various types of Ford limited slip units available for the Ford 8 inch ?

keep them on track,

phillip g

What are the actual weights of the 9", 8.8" and 8"? Anybody weighed them?

Edit: See the "Rear Axle Weights & other musings" thread. -Carl

http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?6,50275

I have no experience with 8" or 8.8" rear ends, but I installed a 9" in my T-Bucket by myself five years ago and still sing soprano.
Also, the only limited slip I've had was a "Richmond Locker".  I doubt I would go that route again as they are a mirror image of a limited slip.  When setting still the rear end is locked and unlocks in a turn as opposed to locking when it feels one side spin.  In the case of my bucket, the Richmond would unlock then lock back up about three quarters through the turn with a loud snap or clunking sound.  If it shifted from first to second about that time and you had the slightest amount of foot in it both back tires would break loose and it would drift a little sideways to the alarm of someone behind you.  This wasn't as big a problem as it sounds, just be a little reasonable with the gas in the turns in a car that weighs 1800 pounds.  Still, the snapping in street applications can become quit annoying.  I'm sure someone has more knowledge than I and will have recommendations.

Thanks for the info Phillip, keep us posted with your progress and take lots of pictures for those of us who don't really know what we're doing!  Well, Ok, maybe it's just me.


Paul

"What are the actual weights of the 9", 8.8" and 8"? Anybody weighed them?"

X2 That would be good info, also if anyone knows how much a stock MGB rear end weights.
If possible narrowed for MGB width weight would be ideal for real world comparisons.

I wish that I would weighed my 8 3/4" Mopar while it was out!

Bill

Bill, I weighed my MG axle, shackles, springs, shocks back when I removed it from the car so I could compare total weight to the IRS (the IRS is way heavier but mostly sprung weight).  I'll check my book tonight to see if I wrote the weight down.

According to information published in the Jan-Apr 2003 and the Jan-Apr 2004 issues of the British V8 newsletter:

MGB: 165
Ford 9": 186
Ford 9" with Tru-trac: 221
Chevy S10: 160
Dana 44: 195
Ford 8": 149

All weights listed include drum brakes.

Thanks guys, wow the Ford 8" is pretty light! I could see how it would offer a handling/ride advantage due to the less un-sprung weight. Quite a weight difference between the 9" with/without Tru-trac as well. I would estimate my 8.75" Mopar to be a little less the the Ford 9". If I ever have it out, I'll have to remember to put it on a scale.

Rob which IRS are you using?

Bill

Series II, mid 80's. Plan to use in Hemi-Jensen Healey.Reportedly ran in RX7 with "serious" V8,(high 9's in quarter), before giving- up. Nice modular suspension clip as a light alternative irs. Good Luck, roverman.

Haven't found the weights yet but I know I have them written down.

Bill, Todd Budde built my IRS.  It uses a Nissan R200S diff; viscous limited slip.  Has a tubular steel cage and and control arms.

Phillip, by "aluminum hubs and riffle drilled axles", I suspect you've sprung for a full floater ?Got de-camber ? Good Luck, roverman.

Art, the rear is indeed a full floater, but I don't think he had any camber put into it Probably should have had them put in a degree but I forgot to mention that to Phil before he ordered it.