BritishV8 Forum

Rob,
 I called Steve today and he looked in his sample books today and found 2 samples of ostrich vinyl, one brown and one black. He is going to email me a link or photo to see if that is what you were looking for.

I have all the stuff that came off my seats which he gave back to me, original foam and fabric and some parts that went inbetween the bottom cushion and back seat rest. So I don't know how or what shape your seats are in?

PM or you may still have my cell number?

Rob,

Ostrich sample that Steve sent me!

will add captions soon!

Installed a steel tube throught the frame, to run 3/8ths stainless steel fuel line, and the brake line. Where it was ran before, the cross pipe in the exhaust was right up against it. Didn't want to get fuel or brake fluid too hot.



It was quit a task drilling it out and then final fit was hand filing with a rat tail file. The brake line fitting just barely slid throught the pipe.







The original way that Triumph at the factory ran the gas line and brake line was along this frame rail. The hole that the fuel line and brake line is running through now was from the factory. By using the hole that is already there and installing the pipe throught the frame, now it's running on the other side of the frame rail. Now both lines are away from the exhaust.

Will add captions soon!

OK, this photo show's both fuel line and brake line on the other side of the frame rail using the factory holes in the frame.



Used a couple of rubber coated clamps and self tapping screws, with a few strong type tie wraps. too mount along the frame rail.



Photo showing both brake line and fuel line going through the pipe.



Coming out of the frame by the differential totaly away from exhaust.

Will add info soon!

Fuel line runnig along the frame rail to the rear differential cross brace.



Ground out a little of the cross brace to tuck the fuel line in with rubber gas line split and wraped around it. Used another clamp and self tapping screw. There is a 6AN fiitting to transfer to high pressure hose going towards fuel pump.




Now that the fuel line and brake line are on the other side of the frame rail, welded 1/4 inch thick plates on all four sides to stiffen up the original transmission mount. Welded the horizontal piece together which the factory doesn't, you can see this in the bolt holes, two pieces of metal sandwiched together.



Was looking at this and thought it would be way to weak for the LS1, now it has a little more strength for the T56.

Added 2 more braces to tie in the differential cross brace towers. Was talking with Jim Prettyleaf when I was at Triumphest 2008 and thought I should do this also. Why not do it befroe the body tub goes back on for final fitment to check all clearances one last time. I'm going to strengthen Richard Goods front differential mount a little where Alan had broke his on the steel that goes over the front part of the differentail. Also will weld small pieces of flat bar on all four sides of Richard Goods adjustable trailing arm brackets. Jim Prettyleaf said they are prone to crack in half at the center mounting bolts. Details! and more detail.



Worked out both Nissan 240sx e-brake cables and figured out the routing and had to rework the e-brake handle some, where the ends of the cable insert. Just needed to open them up some. The original Triumph cabe is alot smaller cable. The Nissan ones I think are better made with thick rubber coating over the cable and the cable is larger in size.

I like the diff. mounting cross brace idea. When the new frame goes under our TR6, I will follow.

Keep up the good work with pics and process.

Send a few my way on the e-brake cable set up you used so I can add to our Rear Disc Brake folder so we can keep future users updated.

OK Don I will soon send some photos to you of the e-brake cables. Working on sending another set of brackets too Florida today!

3 sets left as of today!

Finished routing steering shaft assembly. Mock up was using 3/4" wooden dowels to get the lenght of the both shaft that were needed. Used Woodward steering products, on the ends the spline matched up to the TR6 spline for steering rack and column shaft. All the others matched their own spline. Used 2 Heim joint stand supports, one on the inner fender, and one on the suspension tower box. The bracket on the fender was made with bolt up exstrusion for plumbing to mount to walls. It was ground down to match the right angle, then tig welded to a flat plate, and mounted with 4 bolts and a flat plate on the other side of fender.The lower steering shaft on the top side was very close to the body. So the body was dished in this area for clearance. When the engine is in, this area is close to the header and number 1 spark plug, So by dishing the body gave more clearance everywhere all sides.

The steel shaft used was 3/4" OD with .490 ID. I drilled out the ID to .514 an 1 1/4" deep on all 4 ends. The slpine insert shaft OD was .512. Inserted the insert spline ends into the steel shaft then Tig welded on. Assembled all parts and tighen up all allen set screws and it's DONE.

Didn't have to change the TR6 steering column, just ran the shaft into the hollow shaft almost all the way in before installing the clamp, left enough spline out for the steering joint.

Some different photo angles.











Photo of the dished body area!



Next , the engine will be going back in for final fittment of all clearances. After that everything comes back apart for the body tub prep and paint.

Looks great Calvin.  I think I can use a very similar setup on my TR4.  I had spec'd out Borgeson ujoints, vib damper and shafts, but the Woodward hardware looks like better stuff.  Did you use their .563-36 spline to .750-20 spline joint for the TR6 rack and column?

Hi Cliff,

Yes! The .563-36 to .750-20 spline is what was used coming off the steering rack and steering column. The rest used .750-20 spline for the rest of parts.

I did research and found that Ken Morrison's setup was easy for he did all the homework already. So I adapted for my application.

The Woodward products are well machined and look great! They may cost a little but worth it.

http://www.britishv8.org/Triumph/KenMorris.htm  Ken Morrison photo's of steering setup and information.

Good luck on your setup!

Calvin

Have the engine back in the engine bay to check all clearance points. Everything fits well.

 The brake booster is in with the Wilwood tandem master cylinder attached, which I was able to finish the SS brake line down to the front brake line. Then ran SS brake line over to a Wilwood proportionate valve, then down to the back brake line.

The clutch master cylinder in with SS braided line down to the slave connection on the T56.

The front runner is all installed to check for clearance with AC compressor, about the same as the Alternator.

The radiator is installed with the lower and upper radiator hose's connected, and the steam vent hose.
 
The Header's are in with all exhaust installed.

The steering assembly all in from column to steering rack.
 
The water pump fittings going to the heater core looped. All the fluids, water, engine oil, ATF for the transmission are in.
 
Installed the modified wiring harness (un-pined all wire from blue block and red block at computer, took out all wire's that were not going to be used, and re-pined the blue and red blocks. These blocks had been numbered to 80 pins on each block, so all wire's had to be labeled).

The fuel pump and fuel lines were all installed from the fuel tank to the fuel rail at the engine.
 
I have the Advanced Auto wire block from Steve Carrick, took my ignition switch, and wired for fuel pump, starter, and hot wires from Ls1 wiring harness.
Turned on switch for fuel pump, let pressurize, and checked for leaks. I turned the switch to start position, one revolution from the engine, and "SHE STARTED RIGHT UP".I checked the radiator and thermostat housing, and all hoses for leaks. No leaks from looking under the car!

So first start up was 6-17-2009. For those considering that fuel injection is hard to deal with, well for the LS1 wiring is way too easy. The wires that will end up going to the fuse block, there is 2 12 wire blocks and 1 10 wire block. Al l I did was took 3 pink wires to hot with a fuse link to hot when ignition switch is on. I ran the orange wire with a fuse link to battery.  When the ignition is on, you can hear the throttle sensor moving to find the home position, at the same time you will hear the fuel pump prime. With the engine running I can't hear the fuel pump.

Ok now all needs to come back out to start on tub seal and prime to paint!

While the engine is back out, may install LS6 cam since it is so easy to do without doing a tune.

Congratulations Calvin!  Great feeling isn't it?
 
Now where's the YouTube video of the start up?

Hi Ken.

Yes the first start up is always fun to hear it run for the first time.

Ken you asked for a start up video, so here is a 27 second video with my son Nick holding the camera.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CfMvtqNvEcc

What are you doing for an air intake? I'm guessing (although I might be wrong) that you aren't leaving it like that.
Going round to a headlight bucket or over the top of the rad?

CONGRATS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I know you'll hate to pull her out after just getting her running, but be strong. The fruits of your labor are just around the corner after the spray job.

Very nice!!!!!!!!!!

Alan,

That air cleaner is my intake for now! After the car is on the road for a while I will see if it needs colder air or not. At that time I will make something different, or bring cold air to it.

The air cleaner has the MAF (Mass Air Flow) plate in there all in one from Speed and Performance.

Don,

Thank you for the pat on the back (congrats). It has been a long haul and waiting to hear was very fun. Today I started it up and let it run to operating temp. It sure sounds healthy running and smooth. I cracked the throttle open for a quick blast, lots of torque and quick on the rpm's with the aluminum fly wheel. I believe there will be some light throttle in 1st and 2nd gears for sure or it will be all over the place.
I installed another bung on the bottom of the radiator for a pet cock for drain down valve. I installed an overflow bottle that has a drain down valve.

Hey, I wasn't picking spots. That's a nice job you've done there.
Can't wait to see it in the flesh...

Alan,

An update on the TR250?

Calvin,
 Alan will give you his own update, but in the meantime, here's a couple of threads from 6-Pack:
(start half way through page 3) http://www.6-pack.org/sixpack/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=10061&start=100&sid=f759bb5c79120e08093c85aa3b814cea

(thoughts on color choice)
http://www.6-pack.org/sixpack/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=10256&sid=f759bb5c79120e08093c85aa3b814cea

Ken

Thanks Ken for the update with Alans build.

Alan, here is some comparison photo's for engine placement.  Your builder must be trying to line up the gear shift knob with the original shift hole dimension, and maybe use the 4.100 shifter handle to achieve your stock location. Piston # 1 will be close tolerance for header / steering shaft, but your builder may be changing all that anyway.
Just something  I noticed between the two setups.

Your number #8 coil is where my #6 coil is. Interesting! I'm sure this is trial fit?



Number 8# coil wire close to foot well box!. Also there is the aluminum pass through blocks for ac lines and heater lines. Tig welded an aluminum bracket to hold the PCM on the underside of this footwell box. So that was one of the main reasons to un-pin the computer blocks. This way I don't need a large hole to push the wires through the firewall.



Found these Corvette covers that were moded for the Camaro setup LS1.



You can't see in these photo's, but I will use the original battery location using an Odyssey racing battery. It is 3 1/2" width out from the firewall, and 9" wide.

Well actually my frame and suspension's going to be all custom, so the issues are slightly different. My engine's about 3" further forward than yours - #1 cylinder is about an inch back from the centerline of the front suspension. The vette hubs allow my rack to be forward of the TR rack so clearance isn't such a problem, and the front runner setup pulls everything in at the front. The tightest part is around the headers - there may be a little trimming required there. Those things are huge!

Anyway, sorry for the hijack.

No highjacking considered on my end here Alan, enjoy tallking about the hobby.

The Hooker block hugger headers is what I used. They use 1 5/8" mandrel bent and of equal lenght primaries. Will give you lots of torque at low end. They fit very well, just needed to extend the passanger side flange down to pass my motor mount. It will pass good clearance by the starter and motor mount.

Anyway keep us updated over here on your build.

I have Kooks - from a C5. X-pipe and cats from the same. I figured I'd do my bit for the environment. They look like this



The picture's cropped heavily because the frame's not finished, but it'll suffice to get the idea at least.


I decided to make it a rally clone in tribute to the TR4s that did the Shell 4000. There's one here that's visually similar - http://7vc.co.uk/photos_ext.html - but I'm having two fogs as well as two driving lamps on the front bar (and deleting the third headlight). Mine's going to be wedgewood instead of powder blue (period correct, a bit darker with a touch more grey).

There's a really cool feature on here that you might like to consider. If you look at the engine bay, you can see the mount for the DZU fasteners that it uses to hold the hood down. That I'm stealing for sure...