BritishV8 Forum

Hi everyone,

I have been inspired big time by this sight sinse I found BritishV8.org. A little about me.... I have restored a TR-250 in my high school days back in the 70's....since then Brit cars run through my blood. I might be able to find some old pics and post them here.

The mods that I did in the 70's ...triple Webers with the balanced motor, shaving 87 thousand's off the head and making shims under the rocker stand with oil hole,to keep the geometry correct in the valve train assembly made one potent 250. Also had the old overdrive tran with 2nd 3rd 4th over. Had a friend that had a Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 auto dual four barrel setup.... The 250 left him sitting at the stop light smoking his tires. So we tried a little race starting at 40 mph...the little Brit 250 at the beginning lagged back 1/2 a car length at stayed there until 90 mph before the next stop light. Needless to say my friend was a little upset...but said wow.

As of now working with my 74 tr6 installing an 5.7 all aluminum fi ls1 out of a 2002 Camaro Z28 with t56 tranny. Like I said inspired,... hoping to finish before the next get together in WI.

Thanks to everyone's post here with their conversions.

Best Regards to all here at v8.org,
Calvin



(Moderator decided to re-title this thread and make it "sticky" on 11-26-2008)
(Being sticky made sense when this thread was getting frequent updates. Not so much now... 11-12-2013)

A LS! in a TR6 should be quite a car. Welcome aboard.

Here is where I'm at with the fun of building a car and even idea's.

Some Pics

Talked with a Joe at ststurbo.com about using a remotely mounted in the rear turbo system that is universal and can be used by any of us...will make scary but excitingly fast 6.


Thankyou Ed for the welcome.

Also talked with Ken H for quit awhile this morning shooting idea's back and forth. His setup for engine is real close to mine:-)

Stll inspired with a grin from ear to ear

I noticed when taking pictures...engine pic shows... I need to switch the top suspension folcrum pin 180 deg  oops...common mistake.













Thanks to Curtis J for all the time put in this site, need to pull credit card out soon.

"74 tr6 installing an 5.7 all aluminum fi ls1 out of a 2002 Camaro Z28 with t56 tranny."

Awesome!

This is the combo I would love to see in an MGB that has been widened 6".

More pics and setups used for others to see, Hope I can inspire more here as I have been inspired.

I will probably use these for the power issue, not wanting to go with the straight axles 8", 9" etc.I like the independant suspension. The binding that is caused by the stock splins in the half shaft under power load.

I'm using a R200 out of a Q45 Nissan with 3.54.1 ratio, in this pic you can see the adapters from Richard Good. I went to the local recycle yard and purchaced the R200, rebuilt, new correct gear oil for lsd ,and new seals. I purchased Richard Goods adapter kit (Very well Made by the way) for 6 bolt flange (other R200's are 5 bolt flange with different gear ratio's)

Here is a close up with Richard Goods adapters.

Front shot of some very well made brakets from Good Parts. I use the original flange that came with the R200 instead of stock flange.

By the way Carl F, Thanks for looking and you have a very sweet looking MGB there (Nice Color). LS1 in an MGB.. very cool luv to see someday soon. The saying "Just do it" hehe.

Welcome to our world of fast,safe, fun British motoring!

I also install the RGood differential upgrade after I busted my stock unit.( but it lasted 2 seasons)

I installed the rear disc brake conversion and then proceeded to blow out a HUB, which messed up my brake bracket, so I'm making more.

Your ride should be OUTSTANDING!  Keep us up to date!

Here is another view on the swing arm. I used an old swing arm, off the car to mock up everything.

Thanks Don,

It never crossed my mind to have the calipers mounted on the bottom side of the trailing arm. Nice picture of the bracket setup.

I will email you soon Don to reply.

I have found a silk sceen picture that was made in black & white of the TR-250 that was completed back in 1982 or 3. I had painted the car with 6 coats of laquer Forest Green. Between coats of paint... hand sanded with 800 grit wet sand paper. The last 4 coats were clear... hand rubbed out in straight lines of the body... so no circle marks would show with direct sun light. I was able to see the pours of my skin on my face...It was like a mirror.

I took a picture with my digital camera of the silk screen picture and then reduced the size so I could put it here on the net. This car was totaled in the back end by a drunk man in a truck about two years later. (Bummer) The rims I still have and will be using them for now with the new build. I did purchased 4 out of 12 that were made at that time in 1979. They are 15X7 and very light.

The soft top had a clear plastic sun roof sewn in. The lever shocks had the competiton valve springs in, which made it tight in the rear...front and back sway bars. If you powered hard into the corner it would push...then let off the throtle it would dive back into the corner fast. A very fun car to drive on the mountain roads. This car ate up BMW's, v8 Monza, 455 trans am...it was a blast.

Guess I need another one can you tell.....feverishly working on the 74 :-)

OH, Yes, You have it real bad! Got get another!
We go to all lengths to feed our passions.

Calvin. I have a question about your half-shafts. It looks like you are using the stock shafts with an adapter ring to match the 5 or 6 bolt flange on the diff, is this correct? So then the R200 used a CV shaft? I'm just wondering how hard it would be to mate the inner half of the CV to an outer CV from a T-bird. What is the diameter of the axle shaft?

Jim

I have a question about your half-shafts. It looks like you are using the stock shafts with an adapter ring to match the 5 or 6 bolt flange on the diff, is this correct?

Yes that is correct.

So then the R200 used a CV shaft?

That is a good question. I'm not sure if the Q45 did or not.

I'm just wondering how hard it would be to mate the inner half of the CV to an outer CV from a T-bird. What is the diameter of the axle shaft?

The TR6 shaft is 1" 155 thousands dia at the spline male side.

Here is pic of R200 flange and adapter taken apart.




Hope this answers the question for you.

dwtr6v8 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Welcome to our world of fast,safe, fun British
> motoring!
>
> I also install the RGood differential upgrade
> after I busted my stock unit.( but it lasted 2
> seasons)
>
> I installed the rear disc brake conversion and
> then proceeded to blow out a HUB, which messed up
> my brake bracket, so I'm making more.
>
> Your ride should be OUTSTANDING!  Keep us up to
> date!
>

Interesting setup you have for your rear disc brakes...  You might want to check mine out:  http://www.bowtie6.com/brakes.htm

Make sure you click on the Gallery!

regards,
joe

72 TR6 - CC77169
www.bowtie6.com

Nice to see you here Joe.

Calvin

Bowtie6,

I know you from 6-Pack and have had a few discussions with you. I went another direction with the rear disc brakes as I did not want to fab the coil overs.

Here's another shot showing how placement under the swing arm allows me to use the e-brake.

Calvin,

I'll check your email out. With Christmas around the corner, I have been distracted from the garage.

Have been working on the rear suspension and trailing arm modifications.


Drilled out stud holes, installed 3/8" heli-coils 3/8"x 24 thead. Did this with hand drill being careful to drill straight in.


This was fairly easy to install the shock bracket.


Top side of bracket in spring hole. Notice the filing that needed to be done for shock movement.


Revington TR  rear coil over shock conversion. The shocks are adjustable for how stiff you want your ride.

I welded in the triangle pieces of metal for the spring towers for better support and round pieces for top of shock mount.

Soon will have pictures of strengtening welds for diff mounts. I finished them today just need to take the picture.

The first part of Jan I will receive the CV axle/shaft from Richard Good. Moving right along.

Progress with coil over shock and re-inforcement welds.


This picture shows coil over shock installed with re-inforcement welds on both diff towers. The front diff mounts underneath have been boxed in all 4 sides. From my passed I found....the front passenger side diff mount will be the first one that breaks from downward torque. Also in the front suspension the back lower wishbone mounts will rip outward from over size tires or hard cornering. I re-inforced all up in front as well.


Drilled out trailing arm and longated for Allen wrench to fit through ....to adjust shock stiffness. I think there is 15 settings. The instructions call for uprated springs to be at least 450lbs or higher.


This is the bolt in cross member to re-inforce the motor mounts. The oil pan will clear this ...can probably leave this in when installing the motor.


The 240sx disk brake mounted with the 3/8"x 24 thread instead of 5/16" X 24 studs. Next is the make the brackets for the calipers. I will be cutting off the old rubber stop bracket that was used with the original lever shock. I need the clearance for the rear sway bar. The kit from Richard Good calls for installing the adjustable sway bar bracket on the bottom spring hole of trailing arm. The coil over shock now in its place. I will move the mount back on the trailing arm so that the sway bar still will have the four settings.

Have a great safe Christmas and a Happy New Year everyone.

Front Brake conversion and link on how to do it.

http://www.vtr.org/maintain/brake-conversion.shtml   This is the copyright article on how the conversion can be done.

Did this and it was very easy to do the conversion.

Here are some pictures when completed.


This is the front shot showing the braided line being used. Can also see the brake dust sheild fitment. Just had to trim corners off no big deal.


Shows the original correct year bolts to hold caliper in. The wheel used here is 15"x7"


Shows the dust plate cut.

Picture of body on with sawsall cuts. Body slice and dicing time.


I will probably do the same kind of shape as the passenger side fender so it will look like it was meant be that way (for a V8)




Header driver side.


Need to raise drive shaft tunnel about 1 to 1 1/2" to clear for big aluminum drive line.

The headers with these cuts can be taken in and out. Headers are from Hooker and they are block hugger for the LS1. This is the passenger side.

Rear Sway bar mounts fabed out of angle iron. Still can adjust sway bar and disk brake adapters from Don Watson can fit underneath or on top I think either way using e-brake setup.




The sway bar is higher up mounted here than if mounted in the spring hole...about 2 to 21/2" below frame. There isn't any obstuctions in the way for the U-bolts to attach for frame mount.

Updates on rear disk brakes and caliper painting.
 
1. Used 1987 (after March 87)  Nissan Maxima brake bracket and caliper(eailer than march has less parts inside caliper).
2.Used 1992 240sx rotor. On the inner hole that goes over the hub...had to take off about 68 thousands...I just took old drum and the rotor to someone that had a lathe...match for hub size.Took a small wheel grinder to the inside of the rotor to clean it up so it would clear the outside  diameter of the hub.
3. The bracket that came with the Maxima caliper...for the e-cable...was pointing upward towards the body. I took a bracket that came off a 240sx caliper and installed it on the maxima caliper. This changed the direction how the e-cable went from the caliper.
It ended up going towards the differential.
4. Used the 240sx e-brake cable.
5. Rebuilt both Maxima calipers.

Note: Maxima calipers have a bigger piston than the 240sx calipers.

Pictures show parts that were changed off the caliper.

New lowering springs all the way around . The other ones would have made it look like a 4 wheel drive. I don't suggest purchasing HD springs at stock height. It will elevate your car about an inch.

All calipers painted by hand with caliper paint. This with make it easier to keep them clean looking.

Rear sway bar mount on frame.

Still waiting for CV/axles from Good Parts.

More pictures.







Did a litle bending on the bracket for the cable alignment.Plenty of clerance all around.


Don Watson's brackets saved me tons of time not having to mic it out and take to a machine shop. I could have made these myself...have about 8 years of machining under my belt...but don't have access to any cnc milling machines.

More pictures.

Looking Good! Congrats my friend!

"Thanks again Don"

OK ....Picture shows rear stock height HD spring on left from TRF...RGoods HD lowering spring on right.

A NO brainer for me which one will give you better handling car....Go 4 wheeling look or nice sports car look.

These are the back springs in these pictures below...In the morning the front will go in...with the LS1 and transmission in the frame and mounted...the suspension was all the way up...I was standing on the front of the frame bar before the steering rack was on and moving it up and down with my weight.... barley could get the suspension to go down. I weight 212. Thats just not right or this LS1 engine is way lite.

I believe the front will go down where it needs to be with RGoods front springs.

Try this, lay a garbage bag under each tire before you put the weight on them and then bounce it. The tires have to move sideways a little to let the suspension work and the lower profile tires resist this more than the original ones.

Your LS1 may be as light as the original six. If that turns out to be the case, perhaps the Roadmaster project could make use of your spare springs. We have a set of TR6 springs which are taller than MGB and they may be just right, or they may need to be stiffer. We won't know know until Dale finishes with the engine.

Jim