BritishV8 Forum

I'm at the stage of my MG build where I'm installing the interior.  I've decided the perfect location for a pair of 6 3/4" speakers is in the top corner of each door directly above the window crank shaft.  My idea is to cut out the hole, weld in a metal can of the right depth and angle, fabricate custom door panels to accomodate the speakers and window switches in an asthetically pleasing manner.  Then I'm going to rock out.  
Question: Does anyone have experience with adding power windows to your MG?  If so, what setup did you use, and does such a setup appear to give enough clearance to allow speaker mounting up in the top corners?  I see a few pictures of cars with power windows, but the door panels cover up all the secrets as to what lies beneath.

I've made custom fiberglass speaker panels in the past, and had them installed in the kick panel area of the MG paired with two small subwoofers behind the seat.  This setup sounded pretty good, but the speakers frequently got blocked by my passenger's legs, and they also got kicked more than I'd like to admit.  So I've decided for me (an audio nerd and music lover) that the top front of the doors with a slight angle back is just exactly what I'm looking for.  I have 3 1/2" speakers in the head rests and two 10" subs behind the seats in a custom built enclosure.  Should sound bitchin' when it's done.  Don't tell me it can't be done, or I'll do it just to prove that it can! lol  I'm just getting close to finishing this beast and my quarter panels are hungry for some hot tire shrapnel.  I'm hoping to get some ideas or suggestions that might help me achieve that goal a little bit quicker.  Any advice welcome!

p.s.  If anyone here has systems of their own to talk about, that might be fun too.  

Bill Davidson added power windows in his GT but hasn't done his how it was built article yet. Don't remember what kit he used.

We really need to explore this. Several have been done and we need to get the goods on them. I've heard that Toyota mechanisms might work.

Jim

I second that Jim. I think this is one thing hich could be developed more. I used Toyota regulators in my 64 but they are manual regulators.

There is a universal power window kit (EZ Wiring)advertized in Streetrodder magazine for $145.

Mine has a power window kit from Moss Motors.   They work great, but I can't give you any details on the installation, as Steve Carrick installed them. I understand from him that it was a real pain to adjust the limit stops on the GT, as they were made for a roadster.

I have the Moss kit that replaces the entire regulator assembly.  There was an extra sheet in the instructions that said you have to rotate a stop block 90* for use in a GT.  Maybe they added that after Steve called them to figure it out?. Anyway, they aren't cheap, but I'd highly recommend them.  I searched all of the universal hot rod ones and even ordered one but I couldn't make it work.  The problem is they all require more room under the window when it's fully down than our cars have.  The ones I bought were from AutoLoc because they required the least space.  I got them installed but because of the lack of space the cable drive has to be curved in too tight of an arc & binds.  I tried rotating the housings, modifying/moving brackets, etc.  After a few weeks of messing with them I gave up & bought the Moss ones.  I still have the AutoLoc ones; they'd work fine in a taller door; the motor was plenty strong.

As for sound system & speakers Scott maybe you can give me some advice.  I know nothing so stopped by a local shop just the other day and asked them what I need.  They recommended a 400w 4-channel amp with 6 1/2" mids/separate tweeters up front and coaxial speakers in the rear.  The guy I talked with said not to bother with a sub-woofer saying in the convertible it wouldn't change the sound appreciably - just add that thumping vibration which I don't want anyway.  Make sense?  Agree with the amp size recommendation?  I'll be watching for your updates because I am (or at least was) assuming the front speakers will need to go in the kick panels.  Going off memory, but I don't think there's much depth in the door panels before you hit the glass or quarter window channel.

Any decent sounding door speaker will require a spacer due to the depth of the speaker.  The Roadmaster has 'em, as does my car.

Rob,

On the power amp, you will have to dig into the specs to compare amps.  Are we talking 100 watts per channel X4? Probably.  But is that 100 watts peak or RMS? Is it into 2 ohms or 4 ohms?  A 400 watt RMS 4 channel into 4 ohms would be plenty for most of us.  I remember rockin out with a whole lot less.       I can't seem to make myself cut the holes for the rear speakers, though.

Thanks Carl.  The guy was recommending 400w RMS.  I didn't know to ask about speaker ohms...  I'm guessing lower resistance is better & more expensive so 4ohm speakers would be less expensive, right?  As for the holes, my car already had holes cut when I got it.  I haven't closed them off, but plan to.  For back speakers I am planning to build a box that'll sit on the rear shelf.  That way they won't be blocked by the top when it's down and I can angle the speakers up some too.

I have got power windows from Moss Europe.  They work great, and were easy to install.  My speakers are below the window switch.

Clan, A speaker has to "breathe". If you close-off behind it, leave escape route for air. Cheers, roverman.

I used this kit in my '69 BMW 2002

http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=3300-0030-0147

It was easy to install and works great.

There are a bunch of companies that make a "universal" window crank like that.  That style uses a motor to turn the existing window crank for you.  I didn't try them; if you try that style on an MG, I think the key would be to remove and really clean/re-lube the sissor mechanism very well and also probably replace the channel felt that the glass rides in.  If the windows are hard to crank by hand, I think they'll burn up the motor on that style of electric kit.

So that replaces the crank knob?

J

Yes.  Moss or VB sells that style too.  Their kit has a plastic piece that gets mounted over the crank post & covers the hole in the door panel.

Not sure what happened to my speaker reply, Rob.

Go with the speakers that the amp is rated for. Speakers are rate in nominal impedance. A 2 ohm speaker puts more load on the amp (twice as much) vs the 4 ohm.  I would think that 100 watts per channel RMS would be way more than enough to rock out!

Carl, I appreciate the information on the 2 ohm versus the 4 ohm; good info I did not know that.

Jac

I think that Bill Davidson used the EZ wiring kit and covered the holes in his door panels with plastic MG trunk lid logos glued on to the panel.

Budget power windows is a Canadian invention...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLsyM2Crhew

That works for me Graham !

As Carl stated, speaker ohms need to match the amplifier ohms. If the amp is rated for 4 ohms, you need to use 4 ohm speakers.  If the amp is rated for 8 ohms, use 8 ohms speakers. Depending on the amp design, a mismatch can damage the amp.

So, what difference in sound would one notice between a 2ohm & 4ohm system?  

Recognizing I'm not an audiophile, I just want to be able to hear the system over the wind & road noise w/top down & at highway speeds, is there a practical difference (beyond cost)?

QuoteSo, what difference in sound would one notice between a 2ohm & 4ohm system?

None. The quality will be determined by the overall system. As far as I know, unless you are going for an extremely high end system, any car audio system will be 8 ohms.

QuoteRecognizing I'm not an audiophile, I just want to be able to hear the system over the wind & road noise w/top down & at highway speeds, is there a practical difference (beyond cost)?

The most important factor will be your music selection. You won't be able to enjoy any kind of music that has a lot of dynamic range - you can forget about classical music. If you turn it up loud enough to hear the quiet passages, the loud passages will blow you out of the car. Low enough for the loud passages, and the low passages will be lost in the wind/engine noise. Trying to get quality audio in an open sports car with a V8 (and I'm assuming you have a pleasing exhasut note - ie, rather loud) is an excercise in futility. The wind will overpower most high frequencies.

In my car, if I have the volumn up high enough to enjoy the music over the exhaust and wind noise, it is way over safe listening levels. I'm not sure the exhaust sound itself is not over safe listening levels.

Check out http://www.crutchfield.com/app/index_b.aspx for some good car stereo information.

Disclaimer: It's been years since I messed with quality sound systems - maybe things have changed since then.

I think most car audio speakers are 4 ohms these days, Dan.  Subs are used in 2 ohm configuration a lot.  I believe that the 8 ohm will have greater fidelity, followed by 4 ohm.  Like Dan said, in a roadster it won't matter.

I discovered that I can hear the music over the wind noise much better when wearing ear plugs.

QuoteI think most car audio speakers are 4 ohms these days, Dan.

I did some checking, and you're right. Just shows how out of touch with new technology I am.

Most of the music I listen to in the MG is the 1950s rock and roll that I grew up listening to on AM radio - fidelity is of no concern.