BritishV8 Forum

Here is some other photo's of that area and how it is looking.


A different view of the distribution block and anl fuse holder.



Here is the connection to the alternator. Also showing some of the dual steering joints.



Photo showing the stainless steel brake lines and using a Wilwood proporsionate(sp?) valve for the back brakes.



Photo of wire bundles going through the firewall to the passenger compartment.

Ran the bundle of wires a different way than stock to the front. These wires would be for the radiator fan, turn signals, head lights, running lights, and horns. I did repalce the horns for my original ones were toast.



Should be able to cover some of these wires with some split loom, even have blue to match :-)



Some high and low hertz horns.One high and one low. I did take and totally rebuild the front grill, painted with por 15 chassis black for uv protection.



I installed a GM connector for the radiator connection.

Here is a racing battery that doesn't weight much compaired to a standard battery. It's all mounted and surounded by aluminum. The ground is connected to the old lever shock mount bolt on the frame. I will need to make several grounding straps from the frame to the body, then to the engine block.



Here is the routing of the 2 gauge positive wire that ran up to the distribution block in the engine compartment.



Made a aluminum piece to fit in the body which will add a little strenght to this area + hold some speakers. There will be an interior panel covering this up. Also a little something inbetween the fuel cell & passenger compartment. I did cut out the triangular pieces by the wheel wells and the floor here from the factory.



Will wire in this inersha (sp?) switch to cut off power to the fuel pump in case of an accident.



Trying to keep busy on this build, but the heat lately has been kicking my arse. We are running triple digit weather here.

Made a bracket to hold the Wilwood proporsionate valve in place using original threaded holes in the body. Then welded another piece on the sheet, taped and threded to mount.



Vintage air mounted in.



Welded up a aluminum bracket to hold computer in place under passenger side foot well.On the left side of the computer (below photo) you can see where the heater lines & ac lines come through firewall. I need to install a pass through for the computer hook-up blocks.



Just an update for who is watching this build :-) I'm sweating now. Going camping and fishing this week for R&R :-)

Looking good Calvin.  I think I may be a little ahead of you -- if you don't count the fact that the brake lines I made are leaking in 2 of every 3 connection points.  I'm going to have to redo all the lines.

Wow - that passenger compartment looks tight.
I guess I'll have to drive instead...

Seriously, it's getting there. Looks good.

I love it! Just supports what BLM could have done.
You Rock!
My TR6 is body off, new comp going on, may have ready by Oct.

It really looks good Calvin. Only one suggestion, on those brake lines to the master cylinder. There is no provision for line expansion and proper hydraulic routing would include that. Typically that means some sort of overbend and return rather than a straight bend. With that small of a line it may not matter, but on a critical item like that you might want to take another look.

JB

Update!

The engine has been updated with PRC ls6 243 stage 2.5 fully cnc ported heads, comps cam 228/228 duration 588/588 lift 112 lsa, 7.35 chromolly push rods, arp rod bolts, ls6 ported oil pump, ls7 lifters, comp rocker updated bearings, and etc

Did a cold start after most of my wiring is done with the Advance Auto wire kit. This engine sounds pretty heathy now! I know it will be a hand full, and a learning curve to drive this beast. Oil pressure at start up ran 50psi. All gauges work except speedo, need to calibrate on the road. The Advanced Auto kit wire was fun to learn for the first time wiring a whole car. The wire used is very high grade, when using heat shrink on the wire with mini torch did even faze the outer covering at all.

Still moving along, and I'm not sitting still for sure.



Enjoy!!


<object style="height: 344px; width: 425px"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/vBFySY2zh7g?version=3"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/vBFySY2zh7g?version=3" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="425" height="344"></object>

Calvin,

I'm at the stage where I'm ordering my Woodward steering parts. Why did use a double universal joint instead of a single u-joint at this location?

Thanks,

George

Hi George,

I needed every bit of room for header clearance around the double steering joint. Talking about the lower one of the 2. The spark plug is right there also. Needed room just enough for changing them out. You may not need this joint because you are using a 302. The ls1 is wider. I found out one of our TR6 owners on this site (Ken Morris) used this same setup with his 350 chevy engine , so I figured it would work for me, which it did. I did need to relieve some inner fender for a little more clearance. I mocked up the steering shaft with wooden dowels before ordering parts with the engine mounted in.

http://www.britishv8.org/Triumph/KenMorris.htm Here is the information of Ken Morris's setup that was used on my steering setup. Mine is positioned with a little different angles, but works great for my setup.

I also looked at Dan Masters car for ideas....http://www.britishv8.org/Triumph/DanMasters.htm, which had a 302, and Ken Hiebert'shttp://www.britishv8.org/Triumph/KenHiebert.htm 350 setup.

Thanks Calvin. I knew there had to be a good reason.

George

It's been quiet here for a while. You out driving it? Is that why?

How did you know I've been driving around? :-)

"Yes" it has been around the block a few times. I couldn't resist anymore just driving in and out of the garage to work on it. It has very "SCARY HORSE POWER" in such a light car.
 
I have been playing around with Hp tuner software. Installed a wide band O2 sensor just passed the front narrow band O2 sensor on #2 bank side of engine. Need the wide band for wide open throttle tuning (WOT), for air fuel mixture.  So have been tweaking the engine with a laptop instead of a screw driver.

The brake bleeding has been a chore! There is still some air in the lines somewhere, so need to pay close attention and get it all out for a firm pedal.

The reverse lockout solenoid has been bothering me because it sticks out so far. So I just did what Jon did to his setup(Jon www.ls1gt6.com). Cut it up and make just a plug out of it, so it works well without the casting and solenoid protruding way out from the transmission. I was just in the way of moving the seat forward for my wife to drive, it had to go.

Took off the little air cleaner, bought a large K&N cone air filter, (2) 4" rubber 90*, and some 4" aluminum tube, and extended to make a cold air intake. Needed to Weld in a bung into the 4" aluminum tube, for the Air intake temp sensor.  The whole setup just fits in there with hood clearance.

Some photos.

The first 2 photo's are Jon's photo's http://www.ls1gt6.com/enginetrans.html  5th and 6th photo on his website.







These photo's below I took (they are a little fuzzy). This is the completed reverse lockout cap after being modified.



The piston work's the same way except the solenoid will lock the piston out so it can't be pushed in. It still has a very strong spring in there, that it would be very hard to get into reverse while driving. It's almost as hard as crashing thought the gate when the reverse lockout solenoid is ingauged.

Now I have alot more room for the drivers seat to move forward better.

I made 2 cuts with a mini body saw. That took off the piston housing. I left a little meat thickness on there so that I could tig welded a thick cover over the piston bore without distortion. It all took about an 2 hours to do this setup.

Ken H you may want to do this sometime!



This solenoid is huge!



This photo (below) is the other end of the piston that was cut off and the sleeve retainer for the spring. I did cut off a little over a coil on the large spring. The small spring was still used to center the piston in the bore. So I drilled into the piston a small hole on the cut side that I made, then drilled a small hole into the cover cap. This way the small spring would be centered in the piston shaft and the cover cap. Took a C-clam and assembled together, then intalled the snap ring back in.



All 3 photo's above is what I didn't use.

The photo below is with the revese lockout cap installed. So I made a plate to cover this without any protrusion sticking out. I flatened the aluminum first. Now my seat moves back and forth real good.

Got my 240sx e-brake cables installed, and they work good. I'm going to install tubes so that the cables won't ware out at the bracket slots.



Was able to get this shifter knob on with a little reaming inside the knob to thread it on.



This is the new cold air intake setup with the Mass Air flow sensor intalled ,and Idle air temp sensor.



A different photo angle.

It's tight but it fit's snug in there



Photo of the bung that needed to be tig welded in for the Idle Air Temp sensor.



This cold air intake will not get heat from the radiator now, like the little air cleaner right in front of radiator. The only thing I might be worried about is water getting in the air filter. It will also get a ton more air through the cone filter.

Calvin,
 Things are looking really good.

 Questions please:
Where is the shifter knob from?
Also, who's the supplier for the air intake parts, namely, the 90* bends, flex coupling and the 4" aluminum tube.
 
How does Brenda like driving it?

Looking really good Calvin. You won't need to worry about water getting in the air cleaner. I ran a fully exposed intake for years and rain was never a problem.

JB

Hi Ken,

The shifter knob is for a Ford Mustang T56. Had to ream out alot of material inside the knob to make it fit on my short shifter. I found the knob on some website in Florida. It's Mustang site.  http://www.wheelsmustang.com/mustang-accessories-mustang-shift-knobs-c-5_30/mustang-cobra-t56-leather-shift-knob-p-96

The intake fittings, found this site...http://www.intakehoses.com/    I found everything here except the K&N filter. The filter was from Sumit Racing. The flex hose I think you are refering to is a reducing Hump hose from 3 1/2 " to 4" dia. So parts used ....

1) 3 1/2 X 4" reducer 90* (for connection to the throtle body/ Maf).
1) 3 1/2 X 4"  hump hose reducer ( for connection incoming Maf sensor).
1) 7 1/2" 4" aluminum tube
1) 4" 90* Rubber
1) 2 1/2" X 4" aluminum tube(for filter connection).
5) 4" T-bolt clamps.
2) 3 1/2" t-bolt clamps.

Brenda has only rode around the block sitting on the passenger floor boards without a seat and so was I (LOL) holding on for dear life. It was a hoot. You know you are car nuts if both your wife and you do this. We are never to old!

Thank you JB,

That would be my only concern, and you just eased that out the window!

Nice!

Took off the original ls6 intake, and 78mm throtle body off the engine. When my wife and I went to Sema show, talked with Tony Mamo (AFR booth), and purchased one of his used ported Fast 90mm intake/90mm Nick Williams throtle body. So it all came in the mail, and I got it all installed the other day.

A photo of the new setup,and gained some hp with this setup. This engine is getting alot of air through it now.The intake will out flow a Fast 102mm intake. Tony really opened up this intake. The engine picks up faster and has better throtle response.




Today, have been working on the electric windows hardware. This was fairly easy to install. I hooked up a small battery to the wiring harness, and checked for clearance operation. The window goes up fast + down fast.

The window is down in this photo. Closely checked for anything that might bind.



Closer photo of how the system workes on the window crank shaft. I had to drill a small hole in the end of the shaft, + tap for a small screw to hold on the parts. The mounting brackets, drilled holes for screws with screw clips on the back side of the door.

The opening off to the right in the door, should have enough room to install the window switch in the door panel, and have clearance for the switch on the back side going into the door hole.





Did the same on the electric motor side for mounting.

Used a template( that came with the kit ) to draw the square hole on the panel, for the window switch, after measuring where is should go to fit the door. Used my small cut off wheel to cut the board, then used a sharp blade to cut for the corners. Pulled out the board, then used the sharp blade to cut the material on the back side. Drilled the small holes in the board for the scews. Pulled the wiring though the hole and screwed all four screws in to secure the switch panel in (There is 2 switches on the driver side , and one switch on the passenger side).



This is what the other side looks like with the switch panel installed.



A photo to give you the idea of the location on the panel.



Photo of the panel on the door. I will need to cut about a 1" hole where the window crank handle use to be ( You can see the window crank pushing on the material ), and there will be a black cap that will go over it.

You can see the contact strip with four buttons on it in the door jam, those will be used for the four wires for a passthrough for the door. So the electric window will work when the door is closed. I won't have to deal with wires breaking using the contact strip.

Still need to install the door pulls in the panel.

Had the center dash brace covered to match the lighter color. Will have two toggle switches, one on the left, one on the right. Then inbetween there will be four different indicator led lights that are very small. Rectangle hole is for the pop out screen, gps, sat, radio sound system. There will be 6 speakers in all.

You can't see but on the center section on the sides, close to the face, there is  3/4" holes on both sides for the seat heater switches. Also will have phone charger resepticles on both sides.



Some photo's of how the interior is coming along with speakers in the back panel.




The carpet is installed (Wool carpet) with the original underlay underneath.


You can see the aluminum sheel that was used behind the panel.

Calvin, on that window mechanism, would it be possible to install a window crank on it and still have manual operation?

JB