Did a compression test on my stroked Olds 215, not good. #4 cylinder at 50 lbs.

[Gswest236]

Second attempt; I got it in position only to notice the oil filter is in contact with the framerail.
We thought using the smaller filter, it would clear. I know Jon was able to use the smaller filter, but it looks like I have to run the swivel adaptor. Now where did I put that?

[mgb260]

Scott, you have to dent the frame to allow the short filter to work. If you look at Curtis's article, he explains it.

[Gswest236]

I'll look at that. Where is his post?

[mgb260]

https://www.britishv8.org/MG/CurtisJacobson.htm

[Gswest236]

Thanks Jim. I looked at his build again and it looks like I'll have to do some clearancing. Unfortunately Curtis' post doesn't show the area he modified with a ballpeen hammer very well. I called D+D with some questions on the swivel adaptor. His swivel adaptor kits are on back order but he did explain that his adaptors are both the metric oil pump filter assembly and the swivel component. I thought I could use the swivel part with my new unmodified  metric fuel pump. That's a big NO according to D+D. So, I have to make room for the oil filter.

[mgb260]

Scott, Install the motor without the oil filter, tape off the area to avoid leaks, and then try to install the filter and you will see where to massage the frame a little to allow you to screw on and screw off.

[Gswest236]

I put the motor back in and marked the interference area. Took it back out and beat the marked area with my 4 lb hammer. Put the motor back in; still cant get the filter on. Marked it up more and used a small air hammer on it. I could move the inner wall of the rail, but the bottom area that is boxed wont budge. I may have to get out the cutting wheel and remove enough material to make it work. I have a smallish mig welder (Hobart 140) so I could weld in a piece that accommodates the filter. I have the transmission held up on a trans jack but when the crossmember is in the filter may hit slightly higher or lower. So I need to err on opening up more area just in case.

[mgb260]

Every one of these cars are different. You will get it. Probably better to cut a notch and weld a patch anyway to give more room.

[mgb260]

Looks like the damper was rubbing on the steering rack in your picture. Use some fender washers to space the motor up a little. Those rubber cushions sag with age. That may be why the oil filter is lower on your car and interferes with the bottom of the frame rail.

[Gswest236]

There are shims, one on each side that are not in yet. Those will add a small amount of lift. I haven't
get a bolt into the motor mounts yet. I'm getting it within a 16th" and checking the filter space. I'll have to check the clearance on the steering arm and the balancer. I'm hoping thats from installing and uninstalling the motor. There was no noise from there when running.

[MGBV8]

Those shims are pretty thin.  If you need a bit more, buy some large washers at the hardware store & make two cuts to create a notch. Slide them underneath the round motor mounts.  Or disassemble the mounts & add them with out cutting. 

In my case with sagging rubber mounts, the notched method was so much easier.

[Gswest236]

I was trying to figure out how to get the shims in so I guess you get the bolts started and then plop them in. I'll get some thicker washers. I got that area opened up and have a piece to weld in. Have to get the motor in place to make sure the filter will go on before I weld it up. I think it's opened up enough.

[Gswest236]

After installing the motor for the 4th time, I confirmed that the oil filter will go on. Out it came again. I spent some time today getting the welder set up with the correct wire and did some test welds to see if I remember how to weld. I think tomorrow we'll get it done.

[BlownMGB-V8]

Excellent. I always prefer to avoid extra plumbing in the oil circuit. Less to go wrong that way.

Jim

[Gswest236]

Is it pretty, No. Will it work, Yes. The filler piece was not the same gauge as the surrounding metal, so blow-thru was an issue. Going to grind it a bit more. Seal it, primer and paint it. No one will  ever know how crappy the welder was.

[Gswest236]

The motor is going in for the 5th time. Hopefully it stays for a good while. I need the motor in to cover up this alteration.

[Gswest236]

Today I got the motor back in and checked the clearances again; both the harmonic balancer and the oil filter. Each has plenty of clearance and I haven't even put the motor mount shims in yet. I'm thinking the wear mark on the steering shaft was from a klutz installing and uninstalling the engine 5 times. I haven't got the bolts or the trans crossmember installed so the transmission might come up a bit which will move the balancer a little closer to the shaft, but we'll see.

[Gswest236]

There is a possibility that the shims for the motor mounts were both on one side to help line up the holes. When I pulled the motor they fell on the floor without me seeing them until later. I don't see how they are needed otherwise as they are very thin. 
So, when I go to install the motor mount bolts, and crossmember  we'll see if that is an issue.

[Gswest236]

We got the transmission crossmember in and everything is looking good. The crossmember bolts are a little sketchy though. 2 are lag bolts and the other 2 are bolts with captive nuts inside the frame rail. They had used some epoxy or something to glue the lag bolts in. Obviously they worried these wood lag bolts would come out eventually. They were tight when I removed them so maybe I'll add some lock tight and pray. The motor mount bolt holes are lining up and I don't see any reason for the motor mount shims. Everything clears. The harmonic balancer is clear and the slightly longer Bosch oil filter goes on and off with no issue. We'll get the motor mounts bolted up tomorrow and maybe get the exhaust headers on.

[Gswest236]

Today we got the drivers side motor mount bolts in. The other side will require loosening the transmission bolts to the crossmember so there's some give. We're 1/16" away a the other side so only need a small adjustment to get those bolts in.

[Gswest236]

Frustration is the word of the day. The passenger side motor mount bolts are giving me a fit. Probably due to my skill level. So, off came the crossmember and in went the floor jack to hold it up. My hoist has a blown seal so it wont stay up long enough for me to get under the car. Trip to HF for a new hydraulic cylinder tomorrow.

[Gswest236]

We got the new ram for the hoist in and should have done it sooner. This car has 12 bolts for the motor mounts and trans crossmember. We have 11 in; the last crossmember to transmission bolt and washer were the final straw. I was supposed to loosely connect both of those bolts, then connect the crossmember to the frame. Doing it out of sequence means, no room to work. Getting the nut and washer on this way involves magnets, super glue (glue the washer to the nut) and beer. So, it's a tomorrow job to finish!

[Gswest236]

Super glue trick failed. Had to use some heavy grease to stick the washer on (the bolt is facing down) then we got the nut on and tightened it down and the other 11 bolts of the motor and tranny mounts. Could finally take the hoist and floor jack out. Of course I used the short carb studs when obviously we need the long ones. But, the carb is the next install, because it's simple.

[Gswest236]

I spent the afternoon getting the oil pressure gauge feed line connected to the oil pump housing and it was so fun. No place to use a regular 9/16 wrench. Had to chop one in half to make it work in the space. Then getting it tightened was another hour. Ordered 4 new 2 inch carb studs, someone lost the other ones. Getting the wires sorted, some need extending and some shortened. But we have a starter and a clutch slave cylinder installed. The fuel line has to be connected and I'm replacing the hoses for fuel and cooling as well.

[BlownMGB-V8]

You are getting there. Learning how to eat the elephant.

Jim