BritishV8 Forum

Second attempt; I got it in position only to notice the oil filter is in contact with the framerail.
We thought using the smaller filter, it would clear. I know Jon was able to use the smaller filter, but it looks like I have to run the swivel adaptor. Now where did I put that?

Scott, you have to dent the frame to allow the short filter to work. If you look at Curtis's article, he explains it.

I'll look at that. Where is his post?

https://www.britishv8.org/MG/CurtisJacobson.htm

Thanks Jim. I looked at his build again and it looks like I'll have to do some clearancing. Unfortunately Curtis' post doesn't show the area he modified with a ballpeen hammer very well. I called D+D with some questions on the swivel adaptor. His swivel adaptor kits are on back order but he did explain that his adaptors are both the metric oil pump filter assembly and the swivel component. I thought I could use the swivel part with my new unmodified  metric fuel pump. That's a big NO according to D+D. So, I have to make room for the oil filter.

Scott, Install the motor without the oil filter, tape off the area to avoid leaks, and then try to install the filter and you will see where to massage the frame a little to allow you to screw on and screw off.

I put the motor back in and marked the interference area. Took it back out and beat the marked area with my 4 lb hammer. Put the motor back in; still cant get the filter on. Marked it up more and used a small air hammer on it. I could move the inner wall of the rail, but the bottom area that is boxed wont budge. I may have to get out the cutting wheel and remove enough material to make it work. I have a smallish mig welder (Hobart 140) so I could weld in a piece that accommodates the filter. I have the transmission held up on a trans jack but when the crossmember is in the filter may hit slightly higher or lower. So I need to err on opening up more area just in case.

Every one of these cars are different. You will get it. Probably better to cut a notch and weld a patch anyway to give more room.

Looks like the damper was rubbing on the steering rack in your picture. Use some fender washers to space the motor up a little. Those rubber cushions sag with age. That may be why the oil filter is lower on your car and interferes with the bottom of the frame rail.

There are shims, one on each side that are not in yet. Those will add a small amount of lift. I haven't
get a bolt into the motor mounts yet. I'm getting it within a 16th" and checking the filter space. I'll have to check the clearance on the steering arm and the balancer. I'm hoping thats from installing and uninstalling the motor. There was no noise from there when running.

Those shims are pretty thin.  If you need a bit more, buy some large washers at the hardware store & make two cuts to create a notch. Slide them underneath the round motor mounts.  Or disassemble the mounts & add them with out cutting. 

In my case with sagging rubber mounts, the notched method was so much easier.

I was trying to figure out how to get the shims in so I guess you get the bolts started and then plop them in. I'll get some thicker washers. I got that area opened up and have a piece to weld in. Have to get the motor in place to make sure the filter will go on before I weld it up. I think it's opened up enough.

After installing the motor for the 4th time, I confirmed that the oil filter will go on. Out it came again. I spent some time today getting the welder set up with the correct wire and did some test welds to see if I remember how to weld. I think tomorrow we'll get it done.

Excellent. I always prefer to avoid extra plumbing in the oil circuit. Less to go wrong that way.

Jim

Is it pretty, No. Will it work, Yes. The filler piece was not the same gauge as the surrounding metal, so blow-thru was an issue. Going to grind it a bit more. Seal it, primer and paint it. No one will  ever know how crappy the welder was.