How to pick ignition coils (for use w/ MS3 etc.)

WernerVC · August 30, 2013, 10:07:13 PM

Jaques and Jim,
I think Edis is the way to go for simple installation. I got info from Megasquirt UK and bought several partsfrom them when I was working in the UK.
What MS system do you have ? I have the older V2.2 system. Do you know if this works with Edis ?
WWhat software did you download ?
Jaques, I live in Lynchburg, VA. Might get together some day.
The support bracket you see on this thread is the one I bought in the UK from Megasquirt.co.uk
For the moment I am still working on the welding of new doorsills. The old ones were rusted out.
I'll keep you informed.
Werner

BlownMGB-V8 · August 31, 2013, 12:02:20 PM

Werner, I used EDIS with the 2.2, it works well, is relatively simple and very reliable. The laptop timing control is VERY good.

I will be going to MS3 sometime over the next year or so but have to build the controller first, as well as the rest of the system and as it is a complex one involving other modules linked together via CAN bus I am going to do that after the car is running on the old MS2 controller using the existing 3.57 board. The new system will use COP as well as individual EGTs.

Jim

Moderator · January 23, 2014, 01:08:13 PM

This morning I finally ordered some spark plug wires! I had been procrastinating for way too long.

Here's an updated snapshot of my engine bay with everything bolted down tight. I ended up putting an eight-way connector on the coil pack for the eight signal leads, plus a three-way connector for the power and two ground leads. Additional close-up photos: here.

(A couple tie-wraps have been left off, just in case I need to troubleshoot anything.)

What are you guys working on lately?

kstevusa · January 23, 2014, 02:23:35 PM

I love those invisible plug wires. :-) everything looks great Curtis. your work is "TOP SHELF"

74ls1tr6 · January 23, 2014, 03:29:31 PM

Curtis, I have a question for you?

Does your ls2 truck coils have the heat sink attached to them?
I'm looking for two sets of these with the heat sinks attached to them in the recycle yards (they seem to be the most powerful on the market).

I was able to find a 408 R200 diff that was laying on the ground (still in the suspension) under a Nissan 300zx in the yard. Picked it up for $75, "what a steel"(normally $250 on up). I going to install it into the TR6 and play a little :-)

Moderator · January 23, 2014, 03:49:00 PM

Thanks Kelly! However, I pick and choose photos carefully to maintain that illusion.

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4.08 vs 3.45:1, eh Calvin? As if your car needed help launching! I guess with your double overdrive, you won't be sacrificing too much.

QuoteDo your ls2 truck coils have the heat sink attached to them?

Yes! This snapshot shows their back side. I hope they don't get too hot inside the box!

MGBV8 · January 23, 2014, 04:45:05 PM

Cover needs some louvers.

74ls1tr6 · January 24, 2014, 09:59:52 AM

Hey Curtis,

Where did you pick up your coils?

Moderator · January 24, 2014, 10:59:03 AM

Used, on eBay. I can't find a record of which seller or what I paid. I think they came off of two different cars, because one of the steel brackets was a little rusty and the other wasn't.

MGBV8 · January 24, 2014, 11:48:40 AM

FYI: Go to "My Ebay" then click on "Purchase History". You can look thru recent purchases or archive (last 3 years).

Moderator · January 31, 2014, 10:50:00 AM

Looks like I paid $129.50 shipping included from seller "bding44". That seller currently has three styles of Chevy coils for sale, but not the LS2 truck kind (with finned aluminum heat sinks.)

Here's how the wires turned out:

kstevusa · January 31, 2014, 12:33:49 PM

Very nice Curtis, your engine bay looks great!

74ls1tr6 · February 01, 2014, 01:28:17 AM

Curtis,

Not a bad price for the coils and brackets shipped . I just paid $109.00 for brand new ones for 8 coils + shipping, but 2 sets of them for the Ls1 engines. Then I bought 16 connector pigtails for them. Picked up the pigtails from "autowiresolutions" e-bayer I believe for $145.00 shipped.

Curtis, a very sanitary and professional looking install there!

16 connector pigtails and 1 Ls2 truck coil. The Ls1 coil connectors will not work, so they need to be changed out.
2014-01-31 22.15.30.jpg

box of 16 Ls2 truck coils with aluminum heat sinks.
2014-01-31 22.15.58.jpg

Moderator · February 15, 2014, 02:51:00 PM

After various delays and distractions...

The GOOD NEWS is that I hit the starter button this morning and my engine fired right up on it's new ignition system!

It didn't miss a single beat. I ran it until it came up to full temperature, then shut it down and came back in the house. Needs some tuning. Too much ignition advance at idle. Bogs a bit when I tap the throttle. (That might be a fuel issue, eh?) My old Sun tach isn't working right with MS3-Pro driving it, but I expect that won't be a big deal to sort out.

Here's the most important thing I've learned lately:
If you use a half-moon cam position trigger, make sure to use it with a Hall effect (3-wire) sensor.

I've made recent updates to my Photo Gallery page.

Here is a new photo and caption about cam position sensors:

The Ford shaft was cut in diameter and length. We milled flats onto its end to drive a Buick oil
pump. Note how it has a "half moon wheel" at the top instead of one with one or more narrow
teeth. The sensor at right came with it; it's a VR (variable reluctance) 2-wire sensor. I prefer
to instead use the Hall effect 3-wire sensor at left. This particular Airtex Wells sensor (part#
5S1283) is an improved version of a Hall effect sensor Ford used in the 1990s. It features an
over-molded magnet instead of one that can shake loose. The functional advantage of a Hall
effect sensor in combination with a half moon wheel is quicker starts. MS3-Pro can "poll" cam
position when the crank sensor detects a missing tooth and immediately sync ignition timing.

(I had lots of sync errors when I tried to use the VR sensor. Note also that the connector shown in this photo is the 2-wire kind for the Ford VR sensor. I didn't find a source for the appropriate 3-wire connector so I had to buy a pigtail, which was a bit costly.)

MG four six eight · February 15, 2014, 11:10:45 PM

Thats great news Curtis!! I'm glad to see that the hall effect sensor worked out for you!
Some day if I have some extra time, I may have to convert mine over to hall effect.

Bill

BlownMGB-V8 · February 16, 2014, 07:51:11 PM

I've got the two wire pickup with a narrow vane. Are you saying that the Hall effect will work better, or that it's just better with the half-moon vane?

Jim

Moderator · February 16, 2014, 10:53:42 PM

Jim, with half moon and three-wire together I believe you should get slightly quicker starts. Other than that, I'm not aware of a tangible performance difference between my set-up and yours. (Once you have sync, you have sync, right?)

I corrected trigger angle offset (no more bog!), and then took my car for a long test drive. Car is running GREAT!!!!

Fast starts. Noticeably smoother at idle. Still gotta fix the tach... Then I guess I'll try switching from batch-fire to sequential injection.

mgb260 · February 16, 2014, 11:52:40 PM

Curtis, Great job! You are going to be the go to guy for info on the Megasquirt setup!

DiDueColpi · April 09, 2014, 04:36:56 AM

So, I know it's a little late to the party, but,
came up with another coil choice.
These are for a Subaru WRX.

They are a logic level setup so pretty much anything can run them.
They fit perfectly under the valve cover lip.

A small bracket and you're good to go.
Cheers
Fred

BlownMGB-V8 · April 16, 2014, 09:27:52 AM

Not bad Fred. Logic level you say? That's ideal for the MS I am thinking. What sort of bracket are you planning to use? And about how much do they run? A bit of info on the connector would be nice too and whether or not the connector bodies and crimp pins are available or we're stuck with junkyard pigtails.

Jim