Curtis Jacobson's 1971 MGB/GT with Buick 215 V8

(originally published in MG V-8 Newsletter, Volume 5 Issue 1. Revised...)

Owner: Curtis Jacobson
City: Longmont CO (formerly Greensboro NC)
Model: 1971 MGB/GT (purchased for $1.00 in 1987)
Date of Conversion: 1991 - 1993

Engine: a 1963 Buick Special was purchased complete and running for $150. Its 215cid engine was rebuilt with Silvolite 8.8:1, 0.030" oversize pistons, a Kenne-Bell camshaft ("1XA" 0.462" lift, 260 degree duration, 110 degree lobe center), and Edelbrock Performer 1404 500cfm carburetor. It's currently tuned for operation at 5000' above sea level with 083 main jets, 089 secondary jets, 1460/065x052 needles, and yellow springs.

In May 2009, the original Buick cylinder heads were replaced with Rover 4.0L heads which have smaller combustion chambers (~28cc vs. ~37cc) and thus provide higher compression pressure. They were shaved 0.010". With the composite head gasket selected, they provide approximately 10.1:1 static compression ratio. The Rover 4.0L heads also have larger valves: 1.570" inlet vs. 1.5", 1.350" exhaust vs. 1.312", and significantly larger ports than the original heads. For compatibility with the relatively high-lift camshaft, it proved necessary to have the valve guides cut down. Stock valvesprings were checked for coil bind, and found to be okay. All head work was performed by the experts at Abacus Racing. At installation, lifter preload was set to 0.040" (approximate average) by making and installing custom pedestal shims.

Engine mounting brackets were home-made; they utilize Volvo Truck rubber radiator mounts.The MGB heater was removed and the heater/vent air inlet was converted for cowl induction, with a panel-type (Ford Probe) filter at the firewall.

A Mallory Unilite distributor was originally installed, but it proved unsatisfactory for two reasons. Firstly, the Unilite distributor doesn't include integral over-voltage protection. Mallory acknowledges that this is a problem and causes a high failure rate, but instead of fixing the problem within the alternator (which would cost very little) they instead recommend users buy a Mallory remote "Active Power Filter" (~$39). A second problem with Mallory Unilite distributors is that they use relatively light gauge mechanical advance springs which lose their tension gradually over time. When it became obvious that the Mallory distributor badly needed to be rebuilt (i.e. "recurved" with new springs), I decided to instead have Jeff Schlemmer at Advanced Distributors rebuild my original Delco-Remy distributor. Jeff installed a Pertronix Ignitor solid state module in lieu of breaker points. The Delco-Remy distributor is unmistakably top-quality, more robust, and more easily serviceable. I use an MSD "Blaster 2" coil (and a ballast resistor) with it.

A Facet fuel pump was originally installed, but it was loud from day one and it didn't live very long, so it was replaced with a Mallory "Series 70" pump.

Cold air induction.
Cold air induction is one unusual feature of this Buick "215" engine installation.
Note also that a proper throttle linkage is employed, in lieu of a cable assembly.

Stainless steel vent lines ensure self-purging of air from the cooling system.

Cooling: for about seventeen years, a stock chrome-bumper MGB radiator core proved more than adequate for cooling the 3.5L engine. The key is that plumbing and airflow require more than a passing thought. A transparent plastic remote header tank (from a VW Jetta) was fitted high on the firewall to ensure self-purging of air from the cooling system. The radiator was re-ported to match the engine (1.5" in and out) and the filler neck was removed so it could be mounted closer to the bonnet with the result that not one bit of the radiator core was blocked by the radiator shelf or the reinforcement under it. Streamlining ductwork was placed ahead of the radiator. The slam panel, grille, and oil cooler were also removed to streamline airflow and reduce weight. Twin 8.5" (Honda Civic) electric fans were mounted ahead of the radiator, with low-clearance fan rings to increase fan efficiency. A stainless steel bug screen on a lightweight aluminum frame protected the radiator. An air dam was installed to help reduce air pressure under the car (and thus inside the engine compartment) at speed.

In May 2009, a new AFCO dual-pass aluminum radiator was installed. The new radiator was quite cost effective because it's a popular, off-the-shelf model ("80107N"), except AFCO kindly reworked it to include 1.5" ports and a bung for the vent line to the remote header tank. The big advantage of the new radiator is that it mounts entirely above the MGB sub-frame; and that facilitates an elegant, easily accessible lower hose routing. The top hose is a Dayco 70635 (1970-1979 Camaro and Monte Carlo) and the bottom hose is a Dayco 71013 (1969-2006 Ford Mustang).

The cross-section of the new radiator's core is about sixteen percent larger than the old MGB radiator (12" x 17.75" = 213 in² vs. 10.5" x 17.5" = 183.75 in²). Another, smaller technical advantage of the new installation is that the fan motors are spaced away from the core so they provide (about 25 in²) less blockage than before. I extended the fan rings right up to the new radiator core.

AFCO Scirocco dual-pass aluminum racing radiator (part number 80107N)
AFCO "Scirocco" dual-pass aluminum racing radiator (part number 80107N).

Twin Honda Civic electric cooling fans.
Twin Honda Civic fans.
(Not shown: airflow is blocked from going overtop the radiator by a seal applied to the underside of the bonnet.)

Exhaust: home-made sand bent Try-Y's into dual mufflers pocketed under the seats, with exhaust dumping onto the ground just ahead of the battery boxes.

Making our own headers was really fun and rewarding, but the reason we made them was that back then we didn't know any good option. The RV8 hadn't been introduced yet. I'd heard a rumor that mail-order "block hugger" headers were restrictive and prone to cracking at the welds, plus they were expensive. If we made headers again they'd probably look more like RV8 headers, but they'd be sand-bent.

engine and cooling system, Buick 215 in MGB
"Tri-Y" headers on a V8 engine improve exhaust scavenging by separating pulses as much as feasible.
For the Buick V8's firing sequence, cylinders 1 & 5 need to be paired. Also, 3 & 7, 2 & 4, and 6 & 8.
(This is an older photo... it also shows the MGB radiator which was used for about seventeen years.)

The home-made sand-bent Tri-Y headers have slip joints at the collectors for easy installation.

This photo shows muffler placement, muffler heat shields, and Lokar parking brake cables.

Lubrication: I originally used the Buick 215 V8 front-cover and oil pump, an aftermarket "high-volume" kit (longer gears and aluminum spacer) and remote filter... but the original valve body was scored and would occasionally lose prime. Also, I came to the conclusion that high-volume kits are a scam, and remote filters are messy. I simply replaced the front cover and oil pump with new V6 parts from the local Buick parts counter. The Buick V6 "metric" oil pump has an angled filter mount. With the engine mounted where I've got it, a remote filter was no longer necessary because the V6 filter spins right on! I have oil pressure as soon as the starter spins, and great oil pressure under all conditions.

Buick V6 metric oil pump in lieu of remote oil filter
A Buick V6 "metric" oil pump facilitated doing away with the previous remote oil filter.

Transmission: 1992 Borg Warner T-5 5-speed manual, purchased new from Rockland Standard Gear for approximately $1000. Transmission is the same as a 1992 Camaro's, with the GM (angled) mounting and a 1 1/8" 26-spline input shaft, friction-lined rings (instead of brass synchros) and integral linkage.

Bellhousing: Buick, purchased loose with T-10 transmission, flywheel, pressure plate, etc. (I turned around and sold the T-10, and recouped my expense.)

Flywheel/Clutch: I started with stock Buick parts. After running the car for several years I removed the flywheel and had a machinist friend grind off that heavy outer rim. The lightened (before: 33.2lb, after: 27.4lb) flywheel proved much more appropriate! However, after about fifteen years, when the original rope-type rear main oil seal failed and oiled down my clutch I decided to try something different. As long as I was replacing my original clutch (which had been from a 1992 Mercedes 190SL) I decided to "upgrade" to a new 10.4" Camaro clutch and diaphragm pressure plate. I don't need these heavier-duty (and just plain heavy) parts yet, but I might if I ever get around to installing a more powerful (Rover) engine.

shortened throw-out lever
Custom mount for a Girling slave cylinder, and shortened throw-out fork.

Clutch linkage: originally, I fitted a Girling (0.87" bore) slave cylinder to the side of the engine, pushing a shortened lever. It worked, but pedal effort was too high with the original three-finger pressure plate. After running the car several years I fitted a Tilton "hydraulic throw-out bearing". The HTOB helped with pedal effort, but frankly the Tilton unit was a pain to set up and bleed. (Its extended length wasn't as long as I think it should have been, so it was operating at its limit. Also, I had a seal failure shortly after initial installation.) When I switched to a diaphragm pressure plate I decided to go back to a simple, serviceable external slave cylinder.

Home-made Panhard rod for 71 MGB/GT Trunk floor reinforcement.
The home-made Panhard rod attaches to a Ford 8.8 axle. A "doubling plate" sandwiches and reinforces the trunk floor.

Suspension: I installed a Moss coil-over front suspension (which is no longer available). It hasn't given me any problems, but the design was rather unambitious. For example, castor and camber angles are stock and non-adjustable.

Kingpins, leaf springs, etc. were all replaced with new parts.

An Adco front anti-sway bar was installed on polyurethane mounts. I made my own steering column to move the whole driving position rearward in the car, not just because I'm tall, but also for weight distribution.

On the rear I installed telescoping shocks... but I found the ride to be very harsh, so I discarded the shocks that came with the kit and replaced them with more appropriate shocks ('84-'88 Dodge Colt, Monroe 5877ST). They're still not great, but they're a whole lot better.

I can't stress enough how much adding a Panhard rod improved my car. I'd driven the conversion several years before I fabricated one, but it certainly makes the car feel more confident in corners.

Rear End: 1992 Ford Mustang 5.0 8.8" Traction-Lok limited-slip differential with 3.27:1 gearing (purchased at a salvage yard for $500). I had the housing narrowed and leaf springs brackets installed locally for $100. Custom Moser alloy axle shafts cost an additional $290. The hardest part of fitting the Ford axle was fabricating a parking brake cable system.

Brakes: new MGB master cylinder. (Note: these are now made by Lucas instead of Lockheed).
front - MGB (Brembo) rotors, EBC "Yellow Stuff" pads, Wilwood 2psi residual pressure valve.
rear - Ford 9" diameter drums, 13/16" wheel cylinders, Wilwood 10psi residual pressure valve.
Lokar parking brake cable set connected to (3/4") extended MGB lever.

Falken Azenis RT-615 tires 205/50-15, weigh 20.4# (new) Panasport 15x6 -22mm wheels, weigh 15.0# each

Wheels/Tires: Falken Azenis RT-615 tires (205/50, 20.4# new) on Panasport 8-spoke wheels (15"x6", -22mm offset, 15.0# each, polished rim). McGard 64000 lug nuts (1/2"x20 by 1.5", cone seat).
Note: I formerly used Goodyear 195/60 tires on Minator 8-spoke (14"x5.5", 13.6#) wheels, and they're shown in the photos here.

Instruments: Fuel level - Stewart Warner (electrical)
Oil pressure - Stewart Warner (mechanical)
Water temp - Stewart Warner (electrical)
Speedometer - VDO (electronic/programmable)
Air/fuel ratio - AEM (electronic. Uses a Bosch UEGO wideband oxygen sensor.)
Tachometer - Sun (I got it used, as a gift. It doesn't match, but it works well)

Notes: the first three gauges (above) are mounted in a removable panel with the switches, circuit protection, etc. In theory, you could unfasten four Dzus (quarter-turn) fasteners and a couple electrical connectors and take the whole assembly to your workbench for service, but if I ever rebuild it I'll move the circuit protection to the area over the passenger-side footbox to simplify the overall design.

Racetech steering wheel - made in England
In May 2009, a Racetech (made-in-England!) steering wheel was installed, utilizing a quick release hub.

A handy tuning aide, the AEM air/fuel ratio gauge utilizes a Bosch UEGO wideband oxygen sensor.

MGB custom aluminum dashboard and tachometer
2500rpm at 70mph... (Note: this is an earlier photo, and it shows the previous steering wheel.)

Electrical: Nippondenso integral-regulator alternator from a Chevy Swift (Suzuki engine). This alternator is very lightweight and perfectly reliable. Also, it was free.

All new home-made wiring featuring crosslink insulation (instead of PVC) and Packard Metri-Pac sealed connectors. Where possible, the wiring has been moved inside the car (instead of running under the floorboards, etc.) Fuses have been moved inside the cabin because (a) it's a cleaner, drier environment and (b) it's cooler.

Single 12-Volt battery in passenger-side location. A battery disconnect switch (with key) has been fitted very near the battery.

I've upgraded most of the lights to more modern designs: front turn signals from VW Jetta, side markers from Hyundai Excel, license plate lamps from Toyota Corolla, and a Chevy S10 rearview mirror with integral map lights in lieu of the original dome lamp. All these lights function better than original equipment (e.g. better reflectors and Fresnel lenses, lighter-weight, more streamlined styling, plus they're inexpensive and pretty much maintenance-free! In my experience, stock MGB exterior lights are prone to condensation and subsequent corrosion.)

Left: Chevy S10 rear view mirror with integral map lights. Right: 12V power socket & binder posts.

Paint: PPG basecoat/clearcoat. The color is one of the darker shades of British Racing Green - Jaguar's "Brooklands Green" (from the mid-nineties) - with a White Sebring Stripe. The car's interior has been painted to match. Floorboards, luggage area, tranny tunnel, etc. were painted with rugged, textured 3M "Rocker Schutz" rocker-panel paint. Note: I recently sent a big batch of steel engine compartment parts off to Pete Mantell of Mantell Motorsport to media blast and powder coat in satin black epoxy. I'm very pleased with the look, and the powder-coated finish should prove more durable than the previous paint job.

MGB-GT roll cage
The six-point roll cage was made from 1.75" seamless (DOM) mild steel tubing, w/ 0.090" wall thickness.
Note the horizontal tubes (a) under the dashboard, (b) at shoulder-strap height, and (c) low, behind the seats.
In this view, you can also see the built-in tool chest. Its lid is held down by Dzus quarter-turn fasteners.

MGB-GT removeable side windows Dzus fasteners The lightweight polycarbonate rear quarter windows are easily removable for terrific ventilation.
They're secured in place with Dzus quarter-turn fasteners, three per window.
(The right-hand photo also shows one of many supplemental cage-to-body brackets.)

Misc.: six point roll cage (which aids handling due to improved chassis rigidity), plus I stitch/seam-welded all body seams in the engine compartment for added strength. Five point seat belts. Home-made aluminum dashboard (with early-model MGB padded eyebrow) and aluminum door trim.

I invented quickly-removable rear quarter windows. The glazing is polycarbonate instead of glass for a big weight savings, and they're mounted to lightweight steel box-tube frames which are held in by three quarter-turn (Dzus) fasteners per window. Built-in tool box in cargo area.

Cost: right about 10 grand. I didn't save receipts, and I try not to think about it. Honestly, these cars can be pretty economical if you're disciplined. I did most of the work myself or with the help of friends, including especially Rob Henson (formerly of Virginia Tech and Volvo Trucks, now at John Deere) and Ashley Dudding (formerly of Virginia Tech and Volvo Trucks, now at Hendrickson), two really gifted engineers. Ashley is a master of the almost-lost art of welding with acetylene.

Opinions: I have a very strong preference for chrome-bumper MGBs, and especially GT's, so I generally disagree with the common advice to seek later model cars for conversion. The later chassis may possibly make sense for people who will be buying pre-made "kit" parts and who are intimidated by a little metal work, but otherwise it offers little advantage. To handle or look right, later MGB's should be lowered to early-model specs or even lower. They also need to lose their awful, heavy black bumpers. Those changes have offsetting costs of their own. Contrary to common advice, I didn't have any problem locating my Buick 215 V8 engine with plenty of clearance to the steering/suspension crossmember and unmodified steering rack. (I've never understand the make-work suggestion of using a later model "rubber-bumper" crossmember, rack, steering u-joint, steering column, etc. - plus lowered springs. That's nuts! My oil filter even spins directly onto the engine. How often do you see that in by-the-book conversions? It's proof that there are many ways to skin a cat.) Finally, at the time and place where I built my car the state emissions requirements would've been harder to meet with a later-model car. I would've had to fit catalytic converters for annual inspections.

On my cars, if a part breaks I usually refuse to replace it with a similar part. I require a replacement part that is better by design or of demonstrably better quality. In some cases that pushes me into unorthodox designs, but frankly I think this philosophy has helped me to build a much more reliable MGB.

The main reason British cars have a lousy reputation for reliability is their electrical systems. If it weren't for Lucas, everything would be different - there might still be an MG dealer in your town! If you're willing to accept the challenge of upgrading to a better engine, you certainly shouldn't be intimidated about upgrading the car's electrical system. Research first, starting with the BritishV8 newsletter, of course! You really can re-wire your car with better parts and techniques than MG ever had access to.

I particularly recommend Japanese OEM alternators and electric fans.

Wherever possible I try to use modern-OEM parts, and I usually prefer parts from a junkyard or local car dealer's parts counter over anything from a discount parts superstore or hot-rod parts catalog. (I refuse to buy parts from Walmart, or any part made in mainland China.) There are parts on my MG from at least twelve different OEM's representing six countries.

I've hardly bought anything from the folks who specialize in parts for MGB engine conversions, so I have few opinions on their stuff.

Future: This little car still makes me smile every single time I drive it. I've had her over twenty years and I'm comfortable with her, but she is by nature and intent a continuing project. Since sorting out the conversion she's proven very reliable, although after about fifteen years I did have to replace a leaky rear main bearing seal, which required pulling the engine. Some ideas for future modifications include: an updated rear suspension (probably a 3-link or 4-link design, to save weight and because I'm tired of my sagging leaf springs.) I'd like to fit rear disc brakes (possibly from a mid-nineties Honda or Nissan), dual master cylinders with an adjustable bias bar, bead-rolled aluminum interior trim panels, and especially importantly electronic fuel injection. Frankly, I've driven much more powerful and refined MGB V8 conversions... but to me Bonnie still feels, sounds and looks more like a racecar than any other MGB I've driven. I wouldn't trade her! (Being a GT, plus having a cage, my car is really noticeably more rigid and in my opinion that's a great thing.) My main plan for the future is just to drive more!

Buick 215 aluminum V8
This shows one of the custom motor mounts and the Buick V6 "metric" oil pump, which angles the filter forward.
Note: my friend Pete at Mantell Motorsport media blasted & powder-coated all the black steel parts shown here.

Nippondenso alternator and remote clutch slave cylinder brackets
Notice the tiny Nippondenso alternator and the external clutch slave cylinder, both on custom brackets.

alternator mounting
The seven accessory mounting bosses on Rover 4.0L heads are placed differently than the two bosses
on original Buick 215 heads. Upgrading heads necessitated significant alternator bracket modifications.
Also, two bosses had to be cut off to clearance the driver side bulkhead. A very surprising difference
between Buick and Rover heads is that exhaust port spacing is actually slightly different - just enough
that I had to enlarge all the mounting bolt holes in my precision-made headers!

radiator is above the anti-sway bar, not in-front-of the anti-sway bar
Notice that the radiator is directly above the anti-sway bar, not out in-front-of the anti-sway bar!
The engine also sits uncommonly far rearward. Obviously, the point is better weight distribution.

Falken Azenis tires on new Panasport 8-spoke wheels
As measured at British V8 2008, this car weighs 2180 pounds "wet" (i.e. full tank of fuel).
That's about 130 pounds lighter than original, and 247 pounds less than a "factory" MGB GT V8.
Corner weights: 538 (LF), 529 (RF), 566 (LR), 547 (RR). Distribution: 48.94% front to 51.06% rear.
(With approximately a half tank of fuel, this car has true fifty-fifty weight distribution.)

MGB-GT six point roll cage

MGB rear hatch

Engine:	a 1963 Buick Special was purchased complete and running for $150. Its 215cid engine was rebuilt with Silvolite 8.8:1, 0.030" oversize pistons, a Kenne-Bell camshaft ("1XA" 0.462" lift, 260 degree duration, 110 degree lobe center), and Edelbrock Performer 1404 500cfm carburetor. It's currently tuned for operation at 5000' above sea level with 083 main jets, 089 secondary jets, 1460/065x052 needles, and yellow springs. In May 2009, the original Buick cylinder heads were replaced with Rover 4.0L heads which have smaller combustion chambers (~28cc vs. ~37cc) and thus provide higher compression pressure. They were shaved 0.010". With the composite head gasket selected, they provide approximately 10.1:1 static compression ratio. The Rover 4.0L heads also have larger valves: 1.570" inlet vs. 1.5", 1.350" exhaust vs. 1.312", and significantly larger ports than the original heads. For compatibility with the relatively high-lift camshaft, it proved necessary to have the valve guides cut down. Stock valvesprings were checked for coil bind, and found to be okay. All head work was performed by the experts at Abacus Racing. At installation, lifter preload was set to 0.040" (approximate average) by making and installing custom pedestal shims. Engine mounting brackets were home-made; they utilize Volvo Truck rubber radiator mounts.The MGB heater was removed and the heater/vent air inlet was converted for cowl induction, with a panel-type (Ford Probe) filter at the firewall. A Mallory Unilite distributor was originally installed, but it proved unsatisfactory for two reasons. Firstly, the Unilite distributor doesn't include integral over-voltage protection. Mallory acknowledges that this is a problem and causes a high failure rate, but instead of fixing the problem within the alternator (which would cost very little) they instead recommend users buy a Mallory remote "Active Power Filter" (~$39). A second problem with Mallory Unilite distributors is that they use relatively light gauge mechanical advance springs which lose their tension gradually over time. When it became obvious that the Mallory distributor badly needed to be rebuilt (i.e. "recurved" with new springs), I decided to instead have Jeff Schlemmer at Advanced Distributors rebuild my original Delco-Remy distributor. Jeff installed a Pertronix Ignitor solid state module in lieu of breaker points. The Delco-Remy distributor is unmistakably top-quality, more robust, and more easily serviceable. I use an MSD "Blaster 2" coil (and a ballast resistor) with it. A Facet fuel pump was originally installed, but it was loud from day one and it didn't live very long, so it was replaced with a Mallory "Series 70" pump.
Cold air induction is one unusual feature of this Buick "215" engine installation. Note also that a proper throttle linkage is employed, in lieu of a cable assembly. Stainless steel vent lines ensure self-purging of air from the cooling system.
Cooling:	for about seventeen years, a stock chrome-bumper MGB radiator core proved more than adequate for cooling the 3.5L engine. The key is that plumbing and airflow require more than a passing thought. A transparent plastic remote header tank (from a VW Jetta) was fitted high on the firewall to ensure self-purging of air from the cooling system. The radiator was re-ported to match the engine (1.5" in and out) and the filler neck was removed so it could be mounted closer to the bonnet with the result that not one bit of the radiator core was blocked by the radiator shelf or the reinforcement under it. Streamlining ductwork was placed ahead of the radiator. The slam panel, grille, and oil cooler were also removed to streamline airflow and reduce weight. Twin 8.5" (Honda Civic) electric fans were mounted ahead of the radiator, with low-clearance fan rings to increase fan efficiency. A stainless steel bug screen on a lightweight aluminum frame protected the radiator. An air dam was installed to help reduce air pressure under the car (and thus inside the engine compartment) at speed. In May 2009, a new AFCO dual-pass aluminum radiator was installed. The new radiator was quite cost effective because it's a popular, off-the-shelf model ("80107N"), except AFCO kindly reworked it to include 1.5" ports and a bung for the vent line to the remote header tank. The big advantage of the new radiator is that it mounts entirely above the MGB sub-frame; and that facilitates an elegant, easily accessible lower hose routing. The top hose is a Dayco 70635 (1970-1979 Camaro and Monte Carlo) and the bottom hose is a Dayco 71013 (1969-2006 Ford Mustang). The cross-section of the new radiator's core is about sixteen percent larger than the old MGB radiator (12" x 17.75" = 213 in² vs. 10.5" x 17.5" = 183.75 in²). Another, smaller technical advantage of the new installation is that the fan motors are spaced away from the core so they provide (about 25 in²) less blockage than before. I extended the fan rings right up to the new radiator core.
AFCO "Scirocco" dual-pass aluminum racing radiator (part number 80107N). Twin Honda Civic fans. (Not shown: airflow is blocked from going overtop the radiator by a seal applied to the underside of the bonnet.)
Exhaust:	home-made sand bent Try-Y's into dual mufflers pocketed under the seats, with exhaust dumping onto the ground just ahead of the battery boxes. Making our own headers was really fun and rewarding, but the reason we made them was that back then we didn't know any good option. The RV8 hadn't been introduced yet. I'd heard a rumor that mail-order "block hugger" headers were restrictive and prone to cracking at the welds, plus they were expensive. If we made headers again they'd probably look more like RV8 headers, but they'd be sand-bent.
"Tri-Y" headers on a V8 engine improve exhaust scavenging by separating pulses as much as feasible. For the Buick V8's firing sequence, cylinders 1 & 5 need to be paired. Also, 3 & 7, 2 & 4, and 6 & 8. (This is an older photo... it also shows the MGB radiator which was used for about seventeen years.) The home-made sand-bent Tri-Y headers have slip joints at the collectors for easy installation. This photo shows muffler placement, muffler heat shields, and Lokar parking brake cables.
Lubrication:	I originally used the Buick 215 V8 front-cover and oil pump, an aftermarket "high-volume" kit (longer gears and aluminum spacer) and remote filter... but the original valve body was scored and would occasionally lose prime. Also, I came to the conclusion that high-volume kits are a scam, and remote filters are messy. I simply replaced the front cover and oil pump with new V6 parts from the local Buick parts counter. The Buick V6 "metric" oil pump has an angled filter mount. With the engine mounted where I've got it, a remote filter was no longer necessary because the V6 filter spins right on! I have oil pressure as soon as the starter spins, and great oil pressure under all conditions.
A Buick V6 "metric" oil pump facilitated doing away with the previous remote oil filter.
Transmission:	1992 Borg Warner T-5 5-speed manual, purchased new from Rockland Standard Gear for approximately $1000. Transmission is the same as a 1992 Camaro's, with the GM (angled) mounting and a 1 1/8" 26-spline input shaft, friction-lined rings (instead of brass synchros) and integral linkage.
Bellhousing:	Buick, purchased loose with T-10 transmission, flywheel, pressure plate, etc. (I turned around and sold the T-10, and recouped my expense.)
Flywheel/Clutch:	I started with stock Buick parts. After running the car for several years I removed the flywheel and had a machinist friend grind off that heavy outer rim. The lightened (before: 33.2lb, after: 27.4lb) flywheel proved much more appropriate! However, after about fifteen years, when the original rope-type rear main oil seal failed and oiled down my clutch I decided to try something different. As long as I was replacing my original clutch (which had been from a 1992 Mercedes 190SL) I decided to "upgrade" to a new 10.4" Camaro clutch and diaphragm pressure plate. I don't need these heavier-duty (and just plain heavy) parts yet, but I might if I ever get around to installing a more powerful (Rover) engine.
Custom mount for a Girling slave cylinder, and shortened throw-out fork.
Clutch linkage:	originally, I fitted a Girling (0.87" bore) slave cylinder to the side of the engine, pushing a shortened lever. It worked, but pedal effort was too high with the original three-finger pressure plate. After running the car several years I fitted a Tilton "hydraulic throw-out bearing". The HTOB helped with pedal effort, but frankly the Tilton unit was a pain to set up and bleed. (Its extended length wasn't as long as I think it should have been, so it was operating at its limit. Also, I had a seal failure shortly after initial installation.) When I switched to a diaphragm pressure plate I decided to go back to a simple, serviceable external slave cylinder.
The home-made Panhard rod attaches to a Ford 8.8 axle. A "doubling plate" sandwiches and reinforces the trunk floor.
Suspension:	I installed a Moss coil-over front suspension (which is no longer available). It hasn't given me any problems, but the design was rather unambitious. For example, castor and camber angles are stock and non-adjustable. Kingpins, leaf springs, etc. were all replaced with new parts. An Adco front anti-sway bar was installed on polyurethane mounts. I made my own steering column to move the whole driving position rearward in the car, not just because I'm tall, but also for weight distribution. On the rear I installed telescoping shocks... but I found the ride to be very harsh, so I discarded the shocks that came with the kit and replaced them with more appropriate shocks ('84-'88 Dodge Colt, Monroe 5877ST). They're still not great, but they're a whole lot better. I can't stress enough how much adding a Panhard rod improved my car. I'd driven the conversion several years before I fabricated one, but it certainly makes the car feel more confident in corners.
Rear End:	1992 Ford Mustang 5.0 8.8" Traction-Lok limited-slip differential with 3.27:1 gearing (purchased at a salvage yard for $500). I had the housing narrowed and leaf springs brackets installed locally for $100. Custom Moser alloy axle shafts cost an additional $290. The hardest part of fitting the Ford axle was fabricating a parking brake cable system.
Brakes:	new MGB master cylinder. (Note: these are now made by Lucas instead of Lockheed). front - MGB (Brembo) rotors, EBC "Yellow Stuff" pads, Wilwood 2psi residual pressure valve. rear - Ford 9" diameter drums, 13/16" wheel cylinders, Wilwood 10psi residual pressure valve. Lokar parking brake cable set connected to (3/4") extended MGB lever.

Wheels/Tires:	Falken Azenis RT-615 tires (205/50, 20.4# new) on Panasport 8-spoke wheels (15"x6", -22mm offset, 15.0# each, polished rim). McGard 64000 lug nuts (1/2"x20 by 1.5", cone seat). Note: I formerly used Goodyear 195/60 tires on Minator 8-spoke (14"x5.5", 13.6#) wheels, and they're shown in the photos here.
Instruments:	Fuel level - Stewart Warner (electrical) Oil pressure - Stewart Warner (mechanical) Water temp - Stewart Warner (electrical) Speedometer - VDO (electronic/programmable) Air/fuel ratio - AEM (electronic. Uses a Bosch UEGO wideband oxygen sensor.) Tachometer - Sun (I got it used, as a gift. It doesn't match, but it works well) Notes: the first three gauges (above) are mounted in a removable panel with the switches, circuit protection, etc. In theory, you could unfasten four Dzus (quarter-turn) fasteners and a couple electrical connectors and take the whole assembly to your workbench for service, but if I ever rebuild it I'll move the circuit protection to the area over the passenger-side footbox to simplify the overall design.
In May 2009, a Racetech (made-in-England!) steering wheel was installed, utilizing a quick release hub. A handy tuning aide, the AEM air/fuel ratio gauge utilizes a Bosch UEGO wideband oxygen sensor. 2500rpm at 70mph... (Note: this is an earlier photo, and it shows the previous steering wheel.)
Electrical:	Nippondenso integral-regulator alternator from a Chevy Swift (Suzuki engine). This alternator is very lightweight and perfectly reliable. Also, it was free. All new home-made wiring featuring crosslink insulation (instead of PVC) and Packard Metri-Pac sealed connectors. Where possible, the wiring has been moved inside the car (instead of running under the floorboards, etc.) Fuses have been moved inside the cabin because (a) it's a cleaner, drier environment and (b) it's cooler. Single 12-Volt battery in passenger-side location. A battery disconnect switch (with key) has been fitted very near the battery. I've upgraded most of the lights to more modern designs: front turn signals from VW Jetta, side markers from Hyundai Excel, license plate lamps from Toyota Corolla, and a Chevy S10 rearview mirror with integral map lights in lieu of the original dome lamp. All these lights function better than original equipment (e.g. better reflectors and Fresnel lenses, lighter-weight, more streamlined styling, plus they're inexpensive and pretty much maintenance-free! In my experience, stock MGB exterior lights are prone to condensation and subsequent corrosion.)
Left: Chevy S10 rear view mirror with integral map lights. Right: 12V power socket & binder posts.
Paint:	PPG basecoat/clearcoat. The color is one of the darker shades of British Racing Green - Jaguar's "Brooklands Green" (from the mid-nineties) - with a White Sebring Stripe. The car's interior has been painted to match. Floorboards, luggage area, tranny tunnel, etc. were painted with rugged, textured 3M "Rocker Schutz" rocker-panel paint. Note: I recently sent a big batch of steel engine compartment parts off to Pete Mantell of Mantell Motorsport to media blast and powder coat in satin black epoxy. I'm very pleased with the look, and the powder-coated finish should prove more durable than the previous paint job.
The six-point roll cage was made from 1.75" seamless (DOM) mild steel tubing, w/ 0.090" wall thickness. Note the horizontal tubes (a) under the dashboard, (b) at shoulder-strap height, and (c) low, behind the seats. In this view, you can also see the built-in tool chest. Its lid is held down by Dzus quarter-turn fasteners. The lightweight polycarbonate rear quarter windows are easily removable for terrific ventilation. They're secured in place with Dzus quarter-turn fasteners, three per window. (The right-hand photo also shows one of many supplemental cage-to-body brackets.)
Misc.:	six point roll cage (which aids handling due to improved chassis rigidity), plus I stitch/seam-welded all body seams in the engine compartment for added strength. Five point seat belts. Home-made aluminum dashboard (with early-model MGB padded eyebrow) and aluminum door trim. I invented quickly-removable rear quarter windows. The glazing is polycarbonate instead of glass for a big weight savings, and they're mounted to lightweight steel box-tube frames which are held in by three quarter-turn (Dzus) fasteners per window. Built-in tool box in cargo area.
Cost:	right about 10 grand. I didn't save receipts, and I try not to think about it. Honestly, these cars can be pretty economical if you're disciplined. I did most of the work myself or with the help of friends, including especially Rob Henson (formerly of Virginia Tech and Volvo Trucks, now at John Deere) and Ashley Dudding (formerly of Virginia Tech and Volvo Trucks, now at Hendrickson), two really gifted engineers. Ashley is a master of the almost-lost art of welding with acetylene.
Opinions:	I have a very strong preference for chrome-bumper MGBs, and especially GT's, so I generally disagree with the common advice to seek later model cars for conversion. The later chassis may possibly make sense for people who will be buying pre-made "kit" parts and who are intimidated by a little metal work, but otherwise it offers little advantage. To handle or look right, later MGB's should be lowered to early-model specs or even lower. They also need to lose their awful, heavy black bumpers. Those changes have offsetting costs of their own. Contrary to common advice, I didn't have any problem locating my Buick 215 V8 engine with plenty of clearance to the steering/suspension crossmember and unmodified steering rack. (I've never understand the make-work suggestion of using a later model "rubber-bumper" crossmember, rack, steering u-joint, steering column, etc. - plus lowered springs. That's nuts! My oil filter even spins directly onto the engine. How often do you see that in by-the-book conversions? It's proof that there are many ways to skin a cat.) Finally, at the time and place where I built my car the state emissions requirements would've been harder to meet with a later-model car. I would've had to fit catalytic converters for annual inspections. On my cars, if a part breaks I usually refuse to replace it with a similar part. I require a replacement part that is better by design or of demonstrably better quality. In some cases that pushes me into unorthodox designs, but frankly I think this philosophy has helped me to build a much more reliable MGB. The main reason British cars have a lousy reputation for reliability is their electrical systems. If it weren't for Lucas, everything would be different - there might still be an MG dealer in your town! If you're willing to accept the challenge of upgrading to a better engine, you certainly shouldn't be intimidated about upgrading the car's electrical system. Research first, starting with the BritishV8 newsletter, of course! You really can re-wire your car with better parts and techniques than MG ever had access to. I particularly recommend Japanese OEM alternators and electric fans. Wherever possible I try to use modern-OEM parts, and I usually prefer parts from a junkyard or local car dealer's parts counter over anything from a discount parts superstore or hot-rod parts catalog. (I refuse to buy parts from Walmart, or any part made in mainland China.) There are parts on my MG from at least twelve different OEM's representing six countries. I've hardly bought anything from the folks who specialize in parts for MGB engine conversions, so I have few opinions on their stuff.
Future:	This little car still makes me smile every single time I drive it. I've had her over twenty years and I'm comfortable with her, but she is by nature and intent a continuing project. Since sorting out the conversion she's proven very reliable, although after about fifteen years I did have to replace a leaky rear main bearing seal, which required pulling the engine. Some ideas for future modifications include: an updated rear suspension (probably a 3-link or 4-link design, to save weight and because I'm tired of my sagging leaf springs.) I'd like to fit rear disc brakes (possibly from a mid-nineties Honda or Nissan), dual master cylinders with an adjustable bias bar, bead-rolled aluminum interior trim panels, and especially importantly electronic fuel injection. Frankly, I've driven much more powerful and refined MGB V8 conversions... but to me Bonnie still feels, sounds and looks more like a racecar than any other MGB I've driven. I wouldn't trade her! (Being a GT, plus having a cage, my car is really noticeably more rigid and in my opinion that's a great thing.) My main plan for the future is just to drive more!