Rover V8 with Ford T5

Started by danmas, August 30, 2010, 01:16:04 PM

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danmas

I'm helping a friend install a Rover V8 into a '79 MGB using a Ford T5. Any tips/warnings/advice appreciated.

Thanks,

Dan

pspeaks

Dan, I recently installed a 5.0 with a Ford T-5 in my GT.  I know the motors are different but found the T-5 to be a very good fit with no real issues.  I did have to cut a square relief hole in the upper forward transmission tunnel but I guess that depends on how low you can get the motor.  In a past post I was not in favor of internal hydraulic throughout bearings, Carl didn't agree, and in retrospect I think he was right and I was wrong, I've gained a lot of respect for his opinion; a lot of people use them with success.  I used an external cylinder and though I shortened the throughout arm, it made clearance on the left side tight but acceptable without cutting.  You know more than I do about modifications, but as I just did it, I thought I'd add my thoughts.


"P"

jimbb88

I have done several conversions with McLeod hydraulic throw out bearings without any problems. Note that the instructions say you need a "stop" Those who do not use a stop are the ones with failed bearings removing the transmission and hoping McLeod will rebuild their bearing very soon.

Without a stop, you can overextend the bearing, then it will not retract and it will leak all the fluid on your driveway. Installed with a stop, you should have 100,000's of happy miles.

MGBV8

You weren't wrong, Paul. Your way works, too. As we've seen over & over, here, there's many ways to skin a cat. Some quite elaborate.

No "stop" on my car, Jim. I checked mine (in 2001), following your sage advice. It does not over extend. I didn't buy McLeod's spacer. Didn't want to wait on the shipping, so I went to the hardware store & bought 4 BIG washers. Used 3 of them. That 4th one might have caused me to need that "stop".  :)
Carl

bplus

Isn't the Ford T-5 input shaft longer than the GM version? As I remember
the fix was either to cut the end of the shaft or install a spacer plate between
the engine and trans.  Hmmm, yes yes Les Gonda's race car might be worth
looking at.  For my two cents, I like the camaro version gear ratios better.

mgb260

94 and newer V8 and the V6 Mustang input shaft is longer.They have 3.35 first and .68 OD ratios..

danmas

Thanks for the tips. We're using a D&D bell-housing, Ted Lathrop is machining an adapter plate for the T5, and we're using an HTOB with a pedal stop. How does the location of the Ford T5 rear mounting plate match up with the location of a GM T5 used with a Rover V8? We haven't gotten the parts yet, so we can't check it yet.

mgb260

94 and newer or V6 Mustang needs an adapter aprox. 7/8"- 1" thick.(longer input shaft). D&D sell the thick spacer for older Ford pattern bell to newer trans; that would be about the right thickness for the newer trans. 93 and older Ford V8 use a thinner adapter plate(close to same as Chevy input length.). I think Bill Guzman sells them. Hope this helps.

nobogez07

I'm just getting ready to assemble my Ford T-5 (1992 Mustang - rebuilt) to the motor and would like to usw a HTOB.  McLeod's from previous posts appear to work well (with the right spacer inserted) but has anyone tried the BMC Ford HTOB and if so what was your opinion?  Has it been successful?

britcars

Clutch Peddle Stop.1 (600 x 450).jpg

Dan, here's my version of a peddle stop. It's simply a piece of pipe with a grove cut out to allow it to slip over the clutch peddle rod and a similar piece welded on the end of the pipe, held in place with a metal tab.  Shown trial fitted before paint!

donfaber

Uhh - Been running a McLeod HTOB in a 79B with 3.9L V8 and Camaro NWC T5 since 2003, without a "stop" on the clutch pedal. I'm guessing the stop goes at the "floor end" of the pedal to stop extension of HTOB too far? HTOB  disengages clutch "fairly quickly"  as you push pedal down compared to other clutches.