BritishV8 Forum

Started filing  a couple of the rings today just to see  how the process would work. Got them to .023 fairly easily. Probably get them all done tomorrow.
Marry Christmas!

The site is telling me I've reached the maximum photo limit per post. Apparently I have to delete some pics??

Cleaned the crankshaft. I was told the machinists usually don't clean them after turning them. I didn't see much if anything come out while using wire brushes and brake clean. Oiled it up afterwords. I guess the next step is installing it and checking the bearing tolerances. Got some plasti-gauge ready.

I spy a guitar player.   

Scott, On ours the main bearing oil holes in the block were 5/16" and the bearing shell holes only 1/4" We used a soft jaw vice and drilled the bearing holes out from the back side to 5/16". Just touch the other side with the bit turning to remove the burr. Just start a thread for part 2.

OK JIM, Thanks! It let me attach the pic so not sure what that was about. I'll check the oil hole size on the crank and drill the bearing holes out. I still have to finish the oil pump and timing cover oil mods.
 And yes Carl, I have a guitar related addiction. Not in therapy yet. Must have been the CryBaby sticker. Yeah I have a Wah Wah peddle and I'm not afraid to use it!
Thanks guys

Quote from: Gswest236 on December 29, 2025, 08:51:06 PMAnd yes Carl, I have a guitar related addiction. Not in therapy yet. Must have been the CryBaby sticker. Yeah I have a Wah Wah peddle and I'm not afraid to use it!
Thanks guys

I also saw the front part of the Sweetwater sticker.   

I completely understand.  There are a few here that know that I suffer from G.A.S., as well, with 20+ guitars & CBGs, 9 amps (6 are tube), 14-15 pedals, plus two 4x12 cabinets (& a several 2x12 & 1x12 cabs).

I have had my beat up 1977 Thomas Organ Cry Daddy Wah pedal since '81-82.

For the unafflicted: G.A.S. acronym is Guitar Acquisition Syndrome and/or Gear Acquisition Syndrome.  Same with NGD New Guitar/Gear DAY)

Back on topic.  I have my original 215 & an '89 Rover 3.9 in my other garage bay.

Rock on!

I feel better, I only have 8 guitars, 3 amps, 11 effects peddles, 2 2x12s and a 1x12 that I built. So, my problem is under complete control. Although I did just order a DIY tube amp kit from Stew Mac.
Today I'm installing the main bearings hopefully so I can get the tolerances measured. Did the ring gaps yesterday.
Thanks!

Installed the main bearings and realized my plastic gauge starts at 002, so had to order the right ones. As to Jims comment of drilling out the bearings to match the blocks oil hole. I found my block is drilled out to 9/32 and the bearings are only 3/16. So quite a difference. Would it be better to get diff bearings?

Easy to drill as I described. 9/32 drill bit.

Scott, check your thrust bearing clearance too. Just snug main caps in sequence and pound crank back and then forward with deadblow rubber hammer or block of wood.  Should be .003-.009 clearance behind the thrust bearing. We used a hose clamp to hold the thrust bearings together and sanded a little off each side with 600 grit sandpaper and checked a few times. Went from zero to .006.

Ok, so I'll drill the bearings out to 9/32s. On the thrust bearing; I'm not sure what I'm measuring other than the crankshaft tolerance like the other bearings. Is it the side to side movement? Where am I placing the plastic gauge?

You are measuring front to back clearance. Metal feeler gauge. The flanges on the center main bearing are the thrust surfaces. Between the flange and the crank counter weight. Move back first than forward and measure rear gap.

OK, got it. I think. I'll post it up as I go.

Checked the thrust bearing end play and got a .006 reading. Read up on the sanding process that Jim mentioned. I'm surprised I didn't have to do that as well. Lucky day!

Good news!

I got the rings installed, and eventually got the soft vice attachments and the correct plastic gauge.
Moving slowly but moving.

Coming together! Remember when you install the pistons, the right bank as you are looking at the front of the motor 1,3,5,7 rods dimple in the middle faces back. Left bank 2,4,6,8 dimple face forward so the dimples face each other, and of course all top piston notches face forward.

Your rods should have a squirt hole where the cap meets the rod, this is to lubricate the cam lobes and should face the cam.

Jim

Actually, the squirt holes lube the bottom of the cylinders for the piston skirts. They do point towards the cam if you follow the orientation above.

https://www.engineprofessional.com/articles/EPQ416_50-54.pdf

My pistons don't have squirt holes but there is an opening in the oil ring slot that must serve that purpose??? (There is a tiny hole on one side where the rod cap meets the rod).  The machine shop installed the pistons to the rods and everything looks correct as far as dimple orientation and slot at the top of the pistons all facing forward.

Quote from: Gswest236 on January 01, 2026, 01:30:38 PMMy pistons don't have squirt holes but there is an opening in the oil ring slot that must serve that purpose??? (There is a tiny hole on one side where the rod cap meets the rod). 

Not really.  That slot is to release the oil that the oil ring captured.

How did you confuse an oil squirt hole in the rod cap with one in the piston?

Jim

There aren't oil squirt holes on these pistons that I can see. Looked at a pic online showing said oil squirt holes. Nothing like that on these pistons. The little hole on the rod cap was just something I noticed.
What tolerances did Jon get on his 215?

Scott, the oil squirters are on the rod to cap parting line not the pistons. You have to go full torque on the caps to measure the Plastigage. What you show is .002. Ours were close, maybe a hair over .001. On the connecting rods it is easier to block up the crank on a table to Plastigage.