BritishV8 Forum

This popped up in my regular auction searches, and I hadn't seen it discussed here before.  

It's a UK made racing spec piece, requiring a special clutch. Lightest RV8 flywheel I've seen, but it does look delicate.  About $480 with shipping.

Seems like someone out there with deep pockets might be interested:

https://www.ebay.com/i/222731857376

That would be for a 7.2" double or triple disc clutch assembly (also very light). Should work quite well but have little momentum for starts. Probably too light for street use.

Jim

The problem with race clutches on the street, is they're all-in/all/out, making for a lot of attention getting, you may not like.  No marcel and torsional hub , becomes miserable for the street.  2 cents, art.

Seems a little pricey to save 2-3lbs over an aluminum ten lb wheel from d&d.  Would the difference even be noticeable on the street?   Don't think so

All practicalities aside, it is a beautiful piece of machine work, isn't it?

I have a stock 215 v8 flywheel from a 1962-ish Buick Skylark in my garage.  If you were to compare the two side by side, it would be impressive how different the same mechanical part can be.

Almost all the weight is in the center  so yeah, for racing it would make a difference, especially with the dual disc clutch.

Jim

All them $'s and NO extra ground clearance ? Looks like the teeth are NOT replaceable.

I've had  one of the alloy f/wheel and clutch (d&d)


The alloy one,is a good clutch,(sintered bronze) engine spins quicker,you need to warm up the engine more before driving off.
Otherwise it stalls,it would really suit a circuit car,On a drag type car,it hasn't got the weight/inertia,and it cost me a few tenths of a second !
Gone back to my Mcleod steel flywheel,with ceramic paddle clutch.
I know what you mean about being like a switch,but by changing the master cylinder you can fine tune the system.
You do need a lot of free play with both of these clutches,(2 to 2 1/2" on the pedal)