BritishV8 Forum

That setup will work most of the time. Where it tends to fall short is at WOT, and on some engines it may do fine while on others it won't. The issue is with the larger volume of blowby gasses at WOT which can well exceed the capacity of the PCV valve and its hose. If that happens the crankcase will pressurize and usually oil will be pushed past the seals.

Jim

By modding the rocker covers that came with the engine, I can arrange a PCV takeoff from each rocker cover, and a 3/4" outlet feeding into the air filter. The only thing missing from these rocker covers is,. bizarrely, any means of adding oil;, but Moroso have a solution for that - #68485 http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/68485/10002/-1

More prosaically, was watching today the installation DVD for the Edelbrock 1404, where a chap was idly tightening the hold-down nuts with a small wrench. There is no torque given in the instructions.

I ask because the TSM for my Rambler gives a torque (for the Holley) of 10/12 lb/ft, which seems to me far higher that this chap was using.
I don't want to warp the base... what torque do you use?
If it makes any difference, I'm also using a 1" phenolic spacer.

Ivor

Another option that you may want to consider is to add a vent tube from the fuel pump block-off plate. It works well, though an air/oil separator of some sort is useful for keeping the oil in the engine (some sort of small chamber with a stainless scrubby pad inside for instance, doubles as a flame trap, best if it drains back by gravity).

I was just looking at mine and noticed I had added an orifice fitting from the valve cover to manifold vacuum. With a small open vent filter at the opposite corner for fresh air and a vacuum valve to vent blowby it satisfies every demand. I simply tapped the Rover valve cover for a 10-32 hose barb and used one with an orifice. The valve feeds into the blower inlet scoop behind the filter, so under boost it is seeing very light vacuum. At cruise it closes. Uses the standard Rover flame trap.

Jim

It's taken me all this time to get it running.
The spark vanished.
Then it still wouldn't start, it just wouldn't.
So becoming exasperated I bought a new Edelbrock to replace the used one I had.
And it still wouldn't start.
In retrospect, there seems to have been some problem getting fuel into the carb as the accelerator pump wasn't making those squish noises and there was no smell of fuel. The pump and the pump pressure were and are fine, and the filter. No idea really.
But then it started, couldn't get it to idle very cleanly and before I really got into that it ran up to temp and the fan didn't work and there were two water leaks.
Investigating the fan revealed that one of the garages I paid to do work had wired the fan thermostat output to the horn. and the manual override had been wired to the rev counter. In truth there are few garages now who know how to do the basics. They just know how to plug modern cars into computers.
Now, two years after it last ran properly, and after employing three garages to work on the car because I lacked the time and inclination, here I am doing the job myself.
So, the PCV.
I have a low-rise manifold, the top of the flame trap is level with the underside of the filter so I need an S shape hose which I shall make out of copper plumbing parts.
The (newer) engine has very little blowby. The old engine could have been used for the humane killing of poultry, but the new one is very clean.
Been reading about PCV valves and the need to choose one with the right spring rate. We don't have a lot of choice over here.  As a starting point I'm going to take the easy way out and plumb the flame trap to the air filter. If it gets oily, I shall put in a catch tank. Then as a third stage I could put in a PCV. I looked at various engines in the paddock at the Goodwood Revival, they all breathed into a catch tank then back into the filter. No PCV.
When it gets on a rolling road I'll check the blowby at WOT, and take it from there.

Whilst investigating why it wouldn't start, I took the top off the Edelbrock and was struck by how simple it seems compared to a Holley. At any rate, less to go wrong.

Ivor

Not really less Ivor, just arranged differently.

Keep an eye on that copper loop, it could fill up with oil.

Two things to concern you: PCV airflow at idle (orifice), and at part/full throttle (big tube).

You have the rest of the info you need.

Jim