BritishV8 Forum

I'm finally ready to install my 215 Buick into a '77 B.  I would like to see what type of motor mounts used with this combo.  I'd like to use something other than the B biscuit-type of mount.  Any suggestions and sources?

Also I need sources for exhaust header flanges.  Thanks in advance.

Glen Towery for mounts, Headers by Ed for flanges.

Pictures of 215 mounts(Glen's are upper left and lower right) about 1/2" lower and 1" farther back than other mounts. Headers by Ed header flanges:

Thanks Jim, Glen's plates look good.  The  B rubber bisquits seemed abit soft to me,are firmer HD ones available?  I placed a empty engine and trans in  the car today, sure looks bigger than  the 2.8 V6 I put in my 64.  Final engine will be a 266 I built twenty five years ago.  I hope I pickled it good.  I can't find Glen's number or e-mail, can you help again?

You might try Energy Suspension Poly. Look through their assortment. Glen has a "how to do it " article on this site. I think his contact info is there. What do you plan for the tranny and rear end?

Jim, I google-nuttin, my wife googles, she finds all.  Got Glenn's number and he writes alot on British-cars.net.  Boy, another good site- I"ll never get any sleep.  I'm going to use another T-50 trans I have, and  use the  B rear axle with 3.07 gears.  I have to call Targett  for details for the swap.  I might take the axle to them and have it done there.  LS would be nice, but I drive my stuff easy, I don't like to fix.  Thanks again, Steve

Steve,

British-cars.net is not a live forum. It's a public accessible archive from the MG Enthusiasts website based in the UK.

http://www2.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgbbs

If your going to fab your mounts,anyway...might I suggest anti sway bar bushings ? Available in different hardnesses and bores. Smaller bores=more give. Shaft, through the bushing, would mount horizontal, effectively making an "interlock mount".  Good Luck, roverman.

roverman, an "interlock" type of mount is what I want.  It negates the need for a anti-torque rod or fore-aft stay. Thanks, Steve

engine mount for my installation, bought as a kit from an off road company, had to modify it due to engine placement, added two plate to go from the "sleeve" to the frame, the cost was around 25.00 for the pair. sorry I don't remember the company

That looks a lot like the Speedway Motors kit.

Cheers
Fred

Jay, Do you have a pix of your mounts installed?  Also, did you cut off the stock mount pads?  I talked to  jim at Tinman Fab, $25.00 for a pair of just the tubes and poly inserts, I make the rest.  Space gets tight though.  Thanks, Steve

[qoute]Pictures of 215 mounts(Glen's are upper left and lower right) about 1/2" lower and 1" farther back than other mounts. [/qoute]

I guess I'll have to disagree, Jim.  I've seen this mis-info before & haven't posted.  I use D & D mounts, They are as far back as any ( passenger head is about 3/8" from the firewall). There is room for the oil pan to go lower, but there will be interference with the steering & the header.

I say this because at the 2000 MG V8 Meet in Westlake (Cleveland) OH,  I compared Glenn's AC mounts (which are lower & farther back than his original mounts) and Dan LaGrou's engine mounts. Side by side there was no more than a 1/4" difference between them.

Carl, Not comparing with D&D. Good info on D&D mounts.Those are probably Glen's "A/C" mounts and compared to the ones in the picture are exactly like I said. D&D make fine products. I probably steered a few customers their way  for the 3 speed bell to Ford T5 adapter  and  their narrowed S-10 rear axle. I don't mean to sound cross here,but worked all night and just struck me wrong. I go out of my way to not "misinform" anyone. If I am mistaken I correct my info promptly. I'm just trying to help other enthusiasts in our community here.

steve,

can't find a picture of the mounts installed, attached is one showing the engine with exhaust (drivers side), look to the right of the top bend and you can barely see the mount bolted in. the company I bought the mounts from was in San Diego, tabs were welded to the block plate , had to repositon that and the frame plates were not welded to the sleeve. I remember asking for the kit not welded together, that lowered the price but made the delivery longer as I had to wait for the next batch of parts to be cut.

Here is a pic of the mounts I am using:


My problem is my T5 trans hangs low.  The RV8 is on the mounts but when I try to mount the trans crossmember to the frame rails, I have a ~1" gap.  When I try lifting the trans with a jack, it goes up only a bit before the entire car begins to rise.  Tells me the trans is touching the car somewhere - I was thinking the tunnel.  I stuck my finger around the back of the slot in the engine mount and the single bolt is stuck at the top of the slot.  Is the correct or should it be lower in the slot?
Thanks
Gary

Personally I think the head-to-frame-rail mounts are the best. Better torque control than anything else period, easiest access to R&R the engine bar none, easiest vertical adjustment using just spacer washers, and uses a $10 urethane cushion from McMasterCarr in two different hardnesses.

The downsides? Plating and tubing the frame rail (not hard), fabbing the engine plates (also not hard), and spacing of head mounted accessories (usually not hard).

Installing the engine is a breeze since the bolts are vertical and very easy to get to.

Pete uses the same cushions in his 302 conversion crossmember.

Jim