BritishV8 Forum

Sorry, I didn't make it to the shop yesterday because of storms in the Dallas area, but I found it while looking for pictures to do a journal.  This is the McMaster mount.    "P"

Pete, I think you used the later style mounts. There would be no clearance or cutting or welding with the early mounts. They have a single stud not the ears . 65 260,289 Falcon,Comet,Fairlane,Mustang.63-64 260 will work if you drill for 1" wider mount on newer block. Here is a picture of one on Pete Mantell's plastic block.

Hey Jim,

Who makes that offset drive rad fan? That would make some of the projects so much easier.

Cheers
Fred

QuoteThere would be no clearance or cutting or welding with the early mounts.

Hmmm.....I don't want to burst any bubbles, but I use this mount and even with the left mount spaced  down 3/4" under the engine bosses, I still had to trim a corner off the mount for steering shaft clearance.
Maybe you found a way around spacing and trimming?

Pete's description sounded more extensive so I think he used the later type mounts with ears and modified them. Fred, You would have to contact Pete Mantell on the fan,it was at his tech session.

Well Im not for sure but the mounts look identical to the ones pictured in Pete Mantell's photo. They have the single stud off the pad and two ears to mount to the block. On the drivers side I cut the ears and welded them to slide back the mount to clear the steering shaft. Like I said before I wasnt happy with doing that after the fact. After seeing paul's and a few others I think thats the route I will go. Not having a mount there should provide enough room for the steering.

Heres some photo's of the new B

And here is the 351 in an older project of mine.

Paul

I hope you're still looking on this thread!!  I've had my engineer look your mounts over and got the "thumb's up" until I mentioned one additional detail.  I'm using Ford E-303 Aluminum heads!  

You've built rods before, do you see a concern about mounting to aluminum head as opposed to cast Iron?

I own a company that requires us to have numerous fabrication tools like a CNC plas table, a break and shear ect.  We powder coat and plate OEM die castings, stampings, and fabrications for many Fortune 500 companies.  I guess it's better to be lucky than skillful when it comes to a rebuild!!!

Doug, I didn't work on it, and never met the owner, but our shop did a four point rear end installation on a Model A for a friend of one of our pilots; it had head mounts on a 302 with aluminum heads.  We didn't build the car or the do the engine mounts, but I never heard of any difficulties with it.  My friend who owned the shop is out of town but the next time I talk to him I'll ask.  When the economy went south we closed the shop, sold the equipment, and went back to dealing with airplanes.  My friend has recently started the T-Bucket part of the business back up again but I'm not getting involved until my MG is finished.  One recommendation I would make, and I did it throughout my 302 even with cast iron heads, is to throw away all the bolts and use studs.  I think this might be prudent with anything aluminum to make the threads last longer, but there again it's just my opinion.


Paul

Offset drive fans are sold under the name Sidewinder.

"I don't know why more people don't use the 351W. About a 1 1/2" taller and wider."


I know I'm late to this party but man, when I mounted my 302 I SURE wouldn't have wanted to deal with any extra width or height. I know Pete already has a nice 351, and if I were in his shoes I'd try to fit it as well. But starting from scratch? There's no way I'd pick a 351 over a 302. In many clearance areas I was dealing with an 1/8" here or there, trying to figure out what to do with an extra 1" here or there... makes me sweat just thinking about it.

Just for the heck of it I scrounged up some old pics of how I built my mounts from scratch.

I think rather than a 351, I would prefer the 348 stroker kit Speedway offers for the 302.


Paul

Sounds to me about like the difference between installing a BOPR/300 Buick and a 340 Buick. The smaller one is easy, almost too easy but the larger one requires quite a lot of modifications to be able to fit it in and is really not wrth the effort. Especially when you consider that the smaller one in either case can be stroked out to the same displacement of the larger one on the one hand, and on the other that more powerful engines such as the LS and the BBB do not require any more modifications. I'd say that pretty well expains the dearth of 351 installs, and I dare say we won't be seeing any more 340 swaps and most likely no Buick 350 swaps either, even if they do eventually get the aluminum heads they have been crying for over the last 20 years or so.

Jim

Paul

I think the head motor mount is a great idea.  Have you ever done that type of mount with the use of aluminum heads?  

Doug B

Thanks Doug!  I've been asked about using it with aluminum heads and I posted what I knew earlier in this thread.  My friend and old boss said the guy with the Model A, who I never met, has moved to Florida.  I'm trying to get his email address.  I don't think there is a problem with aluminum heads.  I'll let you guys know if I learn something.  I've never given it much thought because for me the weight difference isn't enough of a factor and I don't know if it would be strong enough, but an intriguing idea, if you have the ability to do the welding would be a set of aluminum mounts; all polished up they might look good!  Of course you could chrome or powder coat them, I just painted mine.



Paul

Stainless is a much better idea. Aluminum has a finite stress cycle lifespan so to avoid fracture the mounts would have to be excessively thick and/or heavily gusseted. Stainless OTOH can be thinner than mild steel.

I used stainless on my roadster (340 thread) and we used 1/4" mild steel plate on the BBB in the Roadmaster which was a little heavier than needed. As long as there is adequate length of thread engagement in the accessory bosses and the mounts are well designed there will be no failure. Just avoid stress risers and overstressing the metal. The stainless in the 340 mounts was around 10 ga. with the cushion pads doubled. I don't think I'd go much thinner than that. With aluminum I'd not be happy with anything under 3/8" unless it was extremely well designed and even then the area around the pads would have to be large to spread out the load and it would need side gussets. There probably isn't room for all that. Titanium maybe?

The 455 with aluminum heads and intake is about equal in weight to the 340 with aluminum 300 heads, intercooler intake and Eaton M-112 blower and accessories. Power output will be similar.

Jim

Thanks for the insight Paul and Jim.  I like the idea of head & frame rail engine mounts as it will lessen the pain of routing the steering shaft and may ease some of the issues with the headers.

Speaking of headers, well I'll get to that subject later on!!  

You both had great food for thought!!    

Doug

Doug we have  engine mounts for the SBF V8 and they are adjustable for location and height, it comes complete with stainless motor mounts, bolts, powder coated brackets and includes cross member.

Doug, my mounts are steel but I agree with Jim, stainless might be the better choice.  For headers I got mine from Ted Lathrop and I'm extremely happy with them.  When you get ready I would give him a call.


Paul

Bill
Do the motor mounts come with your X-member kit?