BritishV8 Forum

QuoteCut em (webbing) out when you're done if you don't like them...

Eliminating the connecting straps/webbing opens up the probability of developing stress cracks and failure of the primary pipe to flange joint - early BOP/Rover block huggers did not have the flange connectors and had lousy life until the webbing was added.

A good point, but slip joints at the collector are another way to eliminate the issue.

ex-tyke- Thanks. I was wondering about that.

Not such a problem with full length headers but I'm probably the only MGB owner running those. I can see it being a problem with the shorties.

Man, that last shot are some sorry looking flanges. The ones they sold me 25 years ago looked much better. Odd. I paid less for them too, probably something like $60-80 with the stubs. But you know, if you have a bench vise, angle grinder, and acetylene torch it is very easy to flare the tubes out to match the flanges. I did that with schedule 40 pipe when I built my turbo headers for the 215. Just make a tapered plug and heat-n-beat to fit. Simple.

Jim

Jim I think the part cut line would be ideal but I am trying to abosrb everthing people are writing. It's not about me so I am trying to abosrb what eveyone is sayng.

Gary, Your flanges look much better than "ED's". I plan on making my own for the Caddy 4.9 but using 1 5/8" round stub instead of port shape. What are the length and width of the ports in yours? Could be another option.

This is a .5" grid. The hols size at it's extremeties is .952 x 1.355:

Gary, Thanks. Looks like a 1.625 OD round port would work fine. Flange would have to be wider. I think that is what Roverman had in mind. My port size is .875 x1.25. I will use 1.5 ID /1.625 OD stubs so 1.625 ID tubes will slip over.

Clan, I would gladly test fit a template, to a TA head. It is likely that only non-ported TA heads would use a 1 5/8" primary pipe. Ported ones would require a mimimum of 1 3/4" od. This is known as "scope creep". Cheers, roverman.

Takes a lot of power to justify those 1 3/4" primaries, Art. What is your target, 500hp?  My Camaro was putting very close to 400 RWHP.  Primaries were 1 5/8.  Mostly street driven, though.

http://www.stockcarracing.com/techarticles/scrp_0704_header_tech/viewall.html

Carl and clan, It would only be a WAG., at this point. Mike at TA and TRS claim 600 hp./all motor, but No dyno sheets ! I might become a believer, when I see one ?? My TA motor will need to max power at 7,500 +.  In "Vizards" example, sbc was using a dual plane, no 5/7 swap and is street bound. Onward, roverman.

Wow. That much power & RPM I guess you can make good use of the bigger primaries.

So I'm guessing for that you would need to level out the line across the top a bit so the port could be raised?

Jim

I'm honestly not trying for scope creep here. Big primaries could/should be in their own category, including perhaps aluminum port adpters, like some race motors use. TA heads "might" benefit from an upswept primary, say 5 deg., which works well on Stage II  V6 heads.  Onward, roverman.

I reveived my set the other day. I'm super excited.

They'll go on to the Olds 215 heads. My flanges where maybe a bit too exact. I'll need just a bit of work with the rat tail to get them to fit over the studs. It looks like my flanges have a bit different profile. I'll report back with what I find once I get them on.

As mentioned, they won't clear the bottom row of bolts, or my dipstick (I think the dipstick is in a different spot on the Buicks???). But on my application pulling the headers off won't be tough.

Thanks again!

Ok fellas. Now keep in mind, I have an Olds head and not Buick/Rover. I don't know how the orientation of the plugs and other stuff works on those. But I took a bunch of photos this evening. I just happen to pick up an extra set of heads this evening.

I won't be able to get at the plugs on the Olds head. I'm using these for Lake Headers on a Model A, so I think I can get away with cutting out the webbing and a bit of bracing. I know the stock manifolds had an issue expansion of the different metals and cracking, but I think I will have a bit flex with longer tubes.

These are EXACTLY what I needed for my application. So I'm real excited. I could see where they may need some tuning for others.

I have no idea if these help out, but here there are. Thanks again Gary!



I tried to line up the stud hole in this shot-

Excellent photos Bea, thanks.

BTW the changes were per Jim's recommendations.

As I told Beau, I am on Vacation and may be a little disconnected for a few more days.

A little work with the die grinder and you may be able to keep the tie-bars. It's the off angle stuff that's in the way.

Jim

I thought about that but with after making enough room for the plug an low studs there wouldn't be much left.

Ed's Olds 215 flanges don't look like they leave room for the plugs either, but photos are tough to go by.

You don't need much. If you end up with 3/16-1/4" width that is plenty.

Jim

Just to show how mine are setup as an example



Hack

Gary,

Are you looking for a 215 head or a 4.0/4.6 head? I might could get you a trashed 4.0/4.6 head. I'll check with my local LR guru, he's got a lot full of parts.

Tim

Curtis, ya got any of these puppies left?

Welcome to the forum, Jed.

I think Gary is set-up to make these to order. Click on the words "Send via P.M." underneath one of his posts...

Cool! Thanks, Curtis!