BritishV8 Forum

I got mine out of the salvage yard, donor car was a '99 mustang posi with 3.73.  Shipped to Moser to shorten for MGB and resplined the axle shafts too.  Have to weld spring perches on and the brackets for the 4link, but not terrible install at all.

check PM

For a CWA200 conversion, record the complete Pierburg number and check the pump's hose connections before choosing a replacement. The earlier wake-up discussion here is a separate issue: it concerns how an existing pump is controlled by a particular ECU. A pump catalogue reference cannot establish that control arrangement or resolve possible back-feeding.

CarParts247, which I help with, lists Pierburg 7.02851.20.0, identified in Motorservice's CWA200 information. The page gives 12 V and two 40 mm hose diameters. It supplies the pump, not a complete British-car conversion kit; confirm the exact pump label, connector and manufacturer-supported control requirements before deciding whether it belongs in the installation.

The battery is not 100% for sure. It's probably holding a surface charge and will quickly discharge under a serious power draw. The battery tender says it's bad. One of the things I'm reading is after a year of down time, its probably sulfation damage. Only know this from the internet of course. But I charged it for a couple hours with an old school  6amp charger and it's showing 13.4 V. One of the tests to see if it's just a surface charge is to put a load on it for a few minutes and see if it goes way down on juice. With that in mind I turned the battery shutoff switch to on and.... nothing. No power to the car at all. Checked a few things and there's a blown 30 amp fuse at the battery going to the car. Of course I don't have a 30amp fuse so tomorrow we'll see.  I have to trace the wire that the fuse was inline with; obviously something is amiss in that circuit.

We're charging the Optima red top with hopes it's still OK; don't want to buy a new one. The plan is to prime the oil pump again, turn the battery cutoff switch on, look and smell for any electrical issues. Turn the key on, look for any electrical issues, engage the starter and pray.

Welcome

Welcome

I saw this:

"The Dana 44 from a 1970s International Scout is as close outside drum to drum as the TR7/8 with about 1/4-inch difference"

Not sure how accurate that is.  There are certainly better & more economical LSDs than a Quaiffe.

Left a post on your parts wanted. You might look at Jeep axles. What engine? We did a 4.0L Lexus conversion in a 1980 TR7 and the axle is still going strong.

Jim

Didn't the TR8 use the same rear axle as the last years of the TR7? That should not be hard to find. I wouldn't think an 8.8 would be hard to find either and Moser can shorten it. That axle is a bit big except for a very high powered car, often resulting in losing the MGB battery boxes with a 4 link. The Dana 44 is a bit closer to the ideal size and a CJ axle doesn't have to be cut down.

Jim