Usually that problem is the result of deposits built up on the shaft itself. Sometimes you have to wire brush the shaft to clean it up before removing it. I have to admit that so far I have never seen the forked end of the shaft spread out so that it makes the shaft hard to remove. That would lead one to inspect the rest of the pump more carefully as there shouldn't ever be enough resistance to do that. Look for foreign object damage. Maybe the pickup screen has a hole. Things like that. You will be using the V6 pickup, right? TA has a real nice embedded o-ring gasket for that.

Jim

They will have to go in the cubby behind the seats it seems. It's not likely there will be much of a trunk, if any. Room certainly for a gas tank but not much more. And with the top down there won't be that much space behind the seats either so the question is certainly valid and it could easily become a case of having to put the top up to carry the groceries home. Sort of like a T series maybe.

I could put the doors on but I have the tunnel work to finish before I take the braces out so that will have to wait. It's much easier to get around in the lift bay though so that's a plus. Good chance I'll just end up ordering a driveshaft from Dayton Clutch and U-Joint but at least now since I have the parts I can get exact specs for that. Or maybe they have a longer male spline and a conversion u-joint that will make these parts work, one can hope. I have cleaning and measuring work to do. Still 11 degrees this morning with snow on the ground so if I do work in the Lab it'll be clean-up duty. But that's part of the job. I'm a bit grudging about that part but do recognize the necessity. I really should go through the entire clean-up cycle. I'll find things no doubt, which is a good incentive. I've been missing my 3/8 drive 9/16" socket. That may be gone never to return but who knows what jewels may surface? I can hardly wait to get started! I have a bit of firewood laid in, there's propane in the tank yet, a bit of fire to take the edge off so my fingers don't hurt and I'm good to go. Might even get one or two portable tables put away. What I really should do is dedicate a shelf in the pallet racking to the bay car. It'd help keep things from getting lost.

Jim

Oil pump vane shaft shows damage (we have a new one) but it did not want to come out of the shaft. Once out I see a gouge in the shaft. I can clean it up with a drill bit I guess. This might be one of those things where a veteran would have known you have to tighten up the slotted end before pulling it out.
Every step is a huge learning curve.

With the way your hood slopes, you may find that you can pick up a little more radiator height by tilting the top a little back towards the engine.  I did that with my Sprite w/3.4L V6.

Where do you put the groceries?

Yesterday was the day. It started off with a big package on the porch, the driveshaft had finally arrived. After inspection it looks like there might be some slight possibility of using the short end with a conversion u-joint and getting the length close enough. I won't know until I can get the slip yoke to move as they jammed it down tight. I'll need another big crescent wrench for that, or maybe I can rig something to pull it apart. Anyway here's a shot of it.



The car is now sitting on it's own wheels. Well actually at the moment it's sitting on the lift arms but I hooked shop air up to the bags and had it aired all the way up. Then I put in the regulators and it looks like around 30 psi will be close for the rear and 50 for the front. The front airbags are an inch smaller in diameter.







I think it looks pretty good. The rear is sitting high but once it's off the lift it will come down. Too cold and too much snow to put it in the bay, that will come later.

It still looks like an MGB, just a shortened version. Sorting out the bodywork should be interesting.

Jim

I changed the Curve2 theme to the same.

Yes, that's a big improvement. Heck of a job you're doing there. Atta Boy!! 

Jim

Hey Eric, would you mind weighing one of those hubs and advising what you discover? 

I'm interested to know how they compare to the original MG (iron, 4-lug) hubs. For comparison:

Got it! Thanks!