BritishV8 Forum

Thanks Jim. I think its got spark and fuel, so timing is the issue.

Scott, Pull the distributor and #1 spark plug. You don't need to pull any other plugs. Put a breaker bar and socket on crank bolt, turn slowly clockwise with your finger in #1 spark plug hole and when it blows out, you will be close. Set timing mark at crank by moving crank pulley until it lines up with 12 degrees. Use your priming tool to line up the oil pump slot with your distributor lined up pointing at #1. Make sure your wires are the right firing order. Tighten the distributor bolt snug but so you can still turn the distributor. Turn the key to on and wait a few second to fill the carb float bowls, then pump the linkage a few times to squirt gas into the engine. Should start right up.

I primed the oil pump again, got the distributor back in and went for a start-up. Power on but no starter. Looked at my wiring and realized I had a starter wire off. Got that sorted and tried again; this time it turned over but backfired. Tried again and it turns over, getting fuel but no start up. It did fire a couple cylinders so I'm guessing I'm 180 degrees off on the timing. Tomorrow I'll pull the plugs and rotate until I know I'm TDC compression and try again.

My worry is that being my first engine rebuild, I may have missed something and by at least getting it to act like it wants to run; I'll be confident enough to install the rad and the exhaust and go for a break-in. 

I've only made sure everything is right and just started and ran it.

Jim, Is there a downside to trying a start-up without the cooling system attached? I'm thinking that if it starts, I'd let it run for 10 seconds or so.

Here is the link to the ServTronic.com installation instructions for the Toyota Prius / Yaris unit with the GPS module

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1n6mYs3ClAWXZkMdLNS3LECOSBbXpi2qE/view?usp=sharing

Jim, I was going to do a test fire before I connected the rad. I want to see if it will fire off and run before I connect the rad and exhaust, drive shaft. If it fires off and seems to run, I'll shut it off and connect the rad for a break-in.

Scott, you don't need to rotate, you will just wipe off the assembly lube you need at breakin. Make sure #1 is at TDC when you pull the distributor. Just prime the oil pump until you see oil at the rockers. Make sure your timing and sparkplug wires are right. Fill the radiator at the top radiator hose and it still may get hot after startup because of air pockets in the cooling system and friction from rings and cam breakin. I always shut it down if it gets too hot and let it cool and try again. 20 minutes at 2000+ RPM. Then fine tune. Shut down and change the oil filter and at 500 miles change oil and filter.

I got a decent smart charger for the AGM battery that was down for over a year. The new charger appears to have reconditioned it, (prior,the battery tender would not charge it even after it was charged). So we can move forward with a start-up try. I got the plugs out, the distributor out, and will re-prime the oil pump and this time rotate the motor as I prime. I don't have someone to assist, so I'll Prime, Rotate, Prime, rotate etc. The fuel pump made noise once I got the wiring straight, so I'll pray that it's good. I just want to see if it will light up. If it does, I'll connect the rad, exhaust, driveshaft and go for a break-in.