BritishV8 Forum

Have a 1964 Buick 300 V8, just back from the machine shop...be assembling this week. This appears to be a low mileage engine as the bores just needed to be honed, std. pistons. (10.25:1) Crankshaft was polished. Aluminum heads are in excellent condition.
Has Crower 50230 camshaft with Crower lifters and Cloyes timing chain set.
With valve train, valve covers, oil pan with pickup and aluminum 4 bbl intake: $2750.00
Can ship or pickup in SE Mi.

DHL sent me an email when they received my parts explaining my package was on hold until I paid the roughly $20 tariff. Crazy

I checked the large wire at the fuse block that matches the larger red wire at the battery and got no continuity. I made up a temporary wire to run along that circuit to see if I get juice to the fuse block. And I got the anti-rattle shifter part from England (thanks Jim) and got hit with a $20 tariff.
Awesome!

Bosch 5.3 used a most manufacturers starting in the late 90's, including domestic, euro and Japanese, according to Grok.
ATE/Teves MK60 used on BMW M3 is a little more adaptable but more expensive, the SI says.

BlackwoodLabs@outlook.com

Usually the largest red wire goes to the + battery terminal. There is another large red wire that feeds the battery from the alternator.

I will trace the red fuse panel wires today. This diagram is all I have other than some wire color descriptions.

Scott, I'd follow back the largest red wire that powers that fuse block.

Looking at the records I see  it has a Painless wiring harness. Never had any issues. I removed the A/C unit and there are those wires that are loose. Every wire I disconnected has been reconnected. There are other wires that weren't connected to anything that I taped off. The ground strap for the transmission to the chassis was not connected when I first powered up the battery and turned on the battery kill switch. My guess is it's something simple. I'm going to pull the MSD box and make sure the wire connections are correct.

I ran across the Delta ABS Motorsport ABS package yesterday, apparently a standalone ABS system suitable for top level competition use and adaptable to pretty much any vehicle. It should be with a package price of nearly $5K but it spurs thoughts of less expensive implementations.

Obviously the two critical components are first and foremost the controller and secondly the solenoid block. Having formerly disassembled an ABS pump assembly it seems a fairly simple matter to come up with an alternative, they cite a higher volume as being their pump's advantage. Frequently the pump is combined with the solenoids but Rover and some others have used separate pieces. It is probably worth checking to see if they will sell their controller separately.

It uses a couple of sensors aside from the individual wheel sensors which they state should be hall effect and at least 40 tooth. Should not be too hard to set up.

I expect there are any number of alternatives out there once we start looking.

Jim