Did a compression test on my stroked Olds 215, not good. #4 cylinder at 50 lbs.

[mgb260]

Yep, I think the ones I linked above would work fine though.

https://www.amazon.com/Speedmaster-PCE401-1005-Universal-Compatible-Pushrod/dp/B07WVWYZT8?crid=20ECQ6ANRGEQZ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Bs0nUL07kdpONBr337hKxCShccHxSO_sEz5CHVAr_6UQpGNU7Og3MiXuZF0f60iyaZz2ST8G6MdW9lWtV5fcqaIPWYFtYdTjxnL5JQtjMZ1O-9t9lp_MTPYgD4_D-sLZAmWHUyal7S6V4LNJ6iaLEZSFtQpRz69m2n55Fiz43_VJLF9Ut_QJPNKaUX246Pbk_7r1fen7bUxxgTHcDFXe263XgUY4vY5zPzDolY-o2C4GQcObNGo1c3GbcLNScKSe.8pDvkvTFCmTadTdKIEj-rn80bnO35eIrp0HN5zwXLj4&dib_tag=se&keywords=7703-1+pushrod+checker&qid=1750468308&s=automotive&sprefix=7703-1+pushrod+checker%2Cautomotive%2C118&sr=1-42&xpid=QR4m09_fATtGE

Looked up your cam and IN lift is the same as Jon's, EX lift is .501 so .013 higher. You would figure both and average them out for length or use two different pushrod lengths. I think the ones I linked which are only .009 longer than your stock length ones would work fine and be insurance against a ticky idle.

[Gswest236]

Ok, so the adjustable ones aren't needed? I can see where the adjustable ones might be over my skill set, which is zero skill.

[mgb260]

I hate the adjustables, they should only be used for checking length. They are heavier and weaker and with hydraulic lifters and the right length pushrods you should never have to adjust.

[Gswest236]

Ok, we'll order the pushrods soon. On a possi note, we got 3/4  of the pistons today. and I went thru half the lifters; disassembled, cleaned,
 lubed and reassembled. A new skill!

[Gswest236]

In case I forget, someone remind me that the crank is in the boot.

[Gswest236]

Spent some time inventorying the parts. It's a reset kind of thing. Getting my mind wrapped around all these parts and thinking about what needs replacement and what I can restore. Some rusty nuts and bolts need replacement , others I can clean up.  I need quite a few parts still. Clutch assembly, oil pump parts, etc.
 

[BlownMGB-V8]

A quick note on pushrods that may save you trouble later:
Push down one of the pistons in a lifter and see how much travel it has. 1/4" is not uncommon. That is what you have to work with when selecting pushrods.

Why so much? It's a carryover from before Buick started using so much nickel in their cast iron. After that valve recession wasn't an issue even with unleaded gas but back then it wasn't uncommon to see as much as nearly a quarter inch of valve recession into the head which meant the lifters had to be able to accommodate it if the engine was to keep running.

This means we now have a surplus of adjustability and that is a bonus for the engine builder, because you can select a pushrod to put the piston in the middle of the range and then you will never have any issues with lifter tap. I generally set them for .060-.080" of preload.

Suggestions for lesser amounts such as .020 are based on retaining the longest possible travel to allow the maximum valve recession without holding a valve open and we just don't have that problem anymore.

This means your pushrod length is not at all critical.

Jim

[Gswest236]

OK, thanks. I ordered the ones Jim mentioned on ebay. I'm sure when it comes time to install them I'll have questions.

[Gswest236]

Did this 16 times;  half of them were stuck  Could be because the resurfacing process got junk in em. They (Delta Cams Tacoma) made sure I knew to open them up and clean them well. They were like "you don't want to pay us our hourly rate to do this" . They were right; it wasn't difficult. Took about 3 hours.

[mgb260]

Scott, you are going to be an expert on the little V8! Notice the finish on the bottom of the lifters, better than new. John at Delta does good work. You should use a brush and clean out the oil holes in the crank too.

[Gswest236]

Yes, the crank needs to be cleaned for sure. Probably do that next since I'm waiting on the pistons/rings. Also, I need the regular oil pump gears don't I. Mine are the heavy duty ones I think. I got the booster plate, but haven't done the oil mods on the pump housing yet.

[mgb260]

The high volume pump has an open spacer for the longer gears. The booster plate is solid except some small oil passages.

[BlownMGB-V8]

Just so you know: On my base 300 iron head 2bbl 9:1CR with 50k original miles, untouched except for oiling mods, timing set and new gaskets, with 0w20 oil thoroughly warmed up I get 40psi oil pressure@750rpm. A worthy goal to shoot for. Extended or high capacity gears are totally unnecessary if the bottom end is built right.

Jim

[mgb260]

Oil pump kit:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8309444&cc=1319622&pt=5564&jsn=623

Booster plate, if you don't already have it::

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3961887&cc=1319622&pt=10268&jsn=626

[Gswest236]

I have the booster plate, so I'm ordering the oil pump kit.
Thanks

[mgb260]

Scott, you will need shorter oil pump bolts too. Minus the thickness of the spacer plate.

[Gswest236]

They sent along new bolts with the booster plate. Assuming thats what they are. I got the crank out and ran some pipe cleaners thru the oiling holes. I did not know how they ran until doing that. I'll spray some solvent thru them and blow em out again.

[Gswest236]

The booster plate kit from TA has these bolts. I'm guessing they're the right length.Fingers crossed.

[mgb260]

Some of them are. Some are too long. The Melling kit says to try them and if they stick out less than a 1/2" they are right ones.

[Gswest236]

OK, I'll check that out shortly.

[Moderator]

Help me understand  what that plate is. I presume it provides an unscarred surface next to stock gears, which is a good thing. And I presume it's steel, and therefore will wear longer than just the aluminum pump body would. But what boost does it provide?

[BlownMGB-V8]

Pipe cleaners are OK but it isn't expensive to buy a set of engine cleaning brushes which have stiff bristles and will leave no residue. They do a better job. I hang my set on a carabiner by the parts washer and they are always there ready for use.

You can break the sharp edges on that plate and the gears. Go very lightly on the gears. Think about how the oil will flow through and try to remove obstructions and sharp break-overs to reduce cavitation and improve flow. (Consider how "hydraulics" are formed, note below.) There's a good bit that can be done in the pump without removing a lot of metal. Set the end clearance as tight as you dare. Do that with the shims dry then assemble with a thin sealant. Don't forget the sealant on the threads of the bolt that runs to the inside of the cavity.

Inserts on the head stud holes are a good idea. hopefully your machinist will use long ones. I'd prefer 3/4" or more myself.
Even with those you'll want to be careful of your head bolt bosses which can mushroom. Inspect them carefully and use the largest, thickest hardened washers on them that you can get. Studs are a good idea. If there is room it may sometimes be helpful to double up on the washers. It's a weak point.

A roller cam can be fitted to this engine if a thrust plate is made up and secured to the front of the block under the timing gear. This allows the use of modern oils without additional additives and widens the torque band even with a mild cam. Stock rocker arms and pushrods can be retained but roller lifters are needed and pushrod length will change. TAPerformance can supply the cam and lifters but they do not have a suitable thrust plate. I've attached a photo of a suitable thrust plate.



Jim

Note: Since a search wasn't that helpful, in rapids a hydraulic is a short waterfall into a circulating pool or eddy which reverses the flow of the water and causes it to run upstream back into the waterfall, disrupting downstream flow. Not what you want in your oiling system. Avoid overhangs, particularly when followed by a direction change. Any boundary layer separation can cause this effect to a greater or lesser degree. Rounding the edge is often all that is needed, and frequently less than you think.

[BlownMGB-V8]

Addressing Curtis' point, the booster plate basically only does two things. It provides a fresh wear surface as noted and it is also said to stabilize the aluminum pump casting. I find this claim questionable but it does no harm to add it. As far as actually boosting oil pressure, it does not but you have to call the darned thing something I guess. Stabilizer plate might have been a better choice but again of questionable benefit there. Wear plate? That would probably be the most accurate. It also is in need of deburring and port work. As it comes it adds additional restrictions.

Jim

[mgb260]

A couple other things it acts like a girdle to stiffen the assembly and the original Kenne Bell and Ruggles versions rerouted the oil flow and helped idle oil pressure. As far as I know TA just resells the Melling plate. I add a 1/4" oil hole to reroute some oil to the other side of the gears to help idle oil pressure. Jim B's excellent oil pressure is mostly due to the close clearances on the rod and main bearings, Jon and Scott's builds should be very good also with .001 on the mains and .0015 on the rods.

[BlownMGB-V8]

I think the three keys are 1) tight bearing clearances, 2) tight pump gear end clearance, and 3) reduced restriction in the suction line.

Reducing turbulence also is helpful. Any one of those will help some but all three should give you exceptionally good oil pressure. This isn't asking for much, remember the rotating assembly of this 300 is untouched which means it has the factory bearing clearances. The biggest mistake I see is letting the crank grinder go with common (chevy) clearances, and then slapping the oil pump together with a gasket and a prayer. That approach almost always disappoints and I did it that way the first time myself over 40 years ago. Nothing good comes of that.

Jim