Did a compression test on my stroked Olds 215, not good. #4 cylinder at 50 lbs.

Started by Gswest236, April 24, 2025, 09:43:55 PM

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Gswest236

OK Jim, I'll order that piston install kit,  and the back grooved front cam bearing.
Thanks

Gswest236

John got the breakout repaired and was able to drill it out the rest of the way. He got it bored to 030 over and now needs the cam bearings and pistons and rods. So, based on the bore now, what pistons and rings would  you guys recommend? Where do you guys get your cam bearings? After talking to John, its becoming more obvious I dont know squat about this process.



Gswest236

Jim I ordered the pistons and rings. I already got the double grooved front cam bearings from TA. Also ordered the rest of the cam bearings you listed. Can't thank you enough!

mgb260

Scott, That's what this site is all about! Pick up some Clevite Bearing Guard for assembly lube on the bearings and I like a thin coat of Moly lube (grease in a tube) on the cam lobes and bottom of lifters, valve tips and pushrod tips and cam and distributor gears. Go real light with it. Remember to tell the machinist 4 of the rods face one way and 4 the other. 1, 3, 5, and 7 the dimple/bump in the middle of the rod faces back and on 2, 4, 6 and 8 faces forward.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/256707773449?_skw=clevite+bearing+guard&epid=1311821981&itmmeta=01JXN9G94FGRKWS3DX7WACM2PR&hash=item3bc4f9c409:g:q7UAAOSwMTpmRlCr&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1fAAy%2F9TY3R3cB%2F0O5Qh4VPYBY%2F91OlXHLka8n5j5IEVw80Z6HkF07Hu4w3tDtXluLZlc%2FWly9e2B5sVqG6btMJk%2FmWW8zlmRcofsno%2BJ0IvlzN9T%2FTB%2Fvpa6nfFg8N1ZYJS8J95lVHaDi6jydZXACoru0Iwp31D7MgfmqsKqTOraJizEJHS1daDrASBhc4wyFjodi%2FwgXUdYE9fTdPVi3fPnZ6YGtvpVrxBV5UplZXGVktpQbRo%2B9hWyVf0ZGb0F4%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR66SwantZQ

https://www.ebay.com/itm/116433425790?_trksid=p2332490.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A1164334257902d5c46d589014d68909c8b35166928d6%7Cenc%3AAQAKAAABcG96wQ16jds4VFcrhy1F3d4mbwZUJI9Fs%252BgdXYAHIzlX2e3YaNh7x%252BEnKA3G%252BCqSl1Xn4McfcWFK1GytmS2qxJ87mtE8Gm3iR1Ja4WBwh0hNHJrJx3Ki5mp04ow4CO7lP%252BooCybZDDU%252BbbSwmg7CbTin%252BBzBzbCYVnbjvyQAHu6--HI4MB7SvJl5IJqlyvomgoLMlgT6qAJzX0SANJhty2cjuyvfBGfNNDjlPBxPGOHkVpDimkhHjAAgQ8KZMofIP%252BZEybXiFZKmLL3%252FyPUMNZZ4JMHKMi8rtDsuPH6DuzI05zZBoBNmfmN8DW5qFXAsvS2PVt6xgEVeTt7xr1vtDwUeVf1y4pJlZHq%252BUO2dceHWQtgf%252BKSkHp6c5NDW6I0Jbhn5q88wipiAhEJV5qe1lQxlNAjYOk2lXF5nxCpcbsCavJCLP1vyBK4mnwZKw2RSSGt0y9laaeAx6yd5%252FoBeYAzGrFzpKi%252FmrSqERZLJZrf4%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&epid=1353888099&itmmeta=01JXNBJDJM2G9Z1JW2Y0WNN1J6


mgb260

Are you going to have the machinist skim the block deck and heads?

Gswest236

I'm going to ask him to do the soft plugs and oil galley plugs; (are these freeze plugs, what are these things)  I'm taking my heads to the same shop when I get the Crank back (he's backed up at his shop). The cam and lifters are done and we're taking those to John as well. The pistons, rings and cam bearings are ordered (we ordered the rings, but they aren't scheduled to ship for 2 weeks). Don't see them available anywhere else quicker than Summit.

mgb260

Soft plugs and freeze plugs are the same thing. Machinist won't need the lifters, just the cam. On Jon's heads they cut the guides for Viton seals and a 3 angle valve job.

mgb260

Scott, when you get your crank back, you will know what undersize bearings to order. I'll get you the links. You won't have to wait for the rings, the machine shop just needs the pistons to know how much clearance to hone to. Plus, install new pistons on old rods.

MGBV8

For Scott;

Soft plugs, freeze plugs, core plugs, welch plugs, are different names for same part.
Carl


Gswest236

I got the crank  back today. Custom Crank radiused  the oil galleys while I waited. Also got the cam and lifters back and delivered the cam and the heads to John. The rings are backordered as well as 2 of the 8 pistons. The rings ship after 7/7, 2 of the pistons don't ship until the first week of July. After talking to John at Johns Specialty Services (Tacoma), I so appreciate his attitude and his understanding that I don't really know what the process is here. Never rebuilt a V8 before. He knows I have guys helping me who are well versed in this motor and he's been great. He's doing the valve job and decking the mating surfaces. He's going to do inserts as apposed to helicoils on the block; thats his preference. Gotta get my shop area cleaned up while the machining process happens.
Thanks for the help!

mgb260


Gswest236


mgb260

Looks like .010 on rods and mains.

Rod bearings:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7012272&cc=1319622&pt=5212&jsn=627&optionchoice=2-10u-0-1

Main bearings:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kgb-mb589am010

We had to drill out the main bearing holes to 1/4" from the backside and just touch the other side with 5/16" while spinning to chamfer the sharp edge.


Gswest236

Jim, where did you get the adjustable pushrod to get the length calculated? The current ones are 8 3/16", so Ill need ones slightly longer now? By the way, the pushrods all appear clogged.

mgb260

Jon had all 16 adjustable. Stock didn't have oil holes in the pushrods. Oiled from a hole in the block through the head to the rocker shaft, Stock lifters didn't have holes for oiling. Since he had lifters with the oiling holes we decided to use hollow pushrods and pushrod to rocker oiling. I used an adjustable pushrod to adjust for length on the heel of the cam to fit snug where you could still rotate the pushrod but not push down on the lifter plunger. I then add one full turn for preload/about .050. I marked the top of the valve stem with a marker and turned it over a couple of times and the wear mark was centered. Stock length was 8.233 so I ended up 8.248. A  lot of variables affect pushrod length. Higher lift of cam and valve grind, head and block milling, regrind of cam and lifters. If your motor which is similar to Jon's didn't have a ticking at idle your OK with the stock length but the lifter has over 1/8" of travel and as things wear it might.

Gswest236

OK, so it looks like there are holes in the push rods, but maybe it's just the way they look. My engine began to have lifter noise at start up. It went away after 30 seconds or so. My push rods are approx 8.250 using a tape measure. If hollow tubes are better, thats the way I'll go. My lifters have the oiling hole too. I'm guessing my cam has a higher lift than Jons which may mean mine will need to a little shorter than his rods. I'm looking at TA's website and they don't show a 215 specific adjustable pushrod but they show hybrid pushrods that has the oiling thru the rod. 5/16" OD.

mgb260

Scott, You are slightly higher lift on either the intake or exhaust, can't remember without looking it up. The hollow pushrods are lighter and stronger than solids. The Buick 215 had a separate oil hole from block to head by a hold down bolt. The Olds had a weird head bolt that had a slot in it. We changed it to a grade 8 bolt. You have to run a wire through the rocker oiling hole to make sure it is clear. Both motors had 3/8 ball ends instead of 5/16 which are more common. There are slightly shorter pushrods than what we used. I think they were 8.245.I always look for the best price. I'll try to find a link.


mgb260


Gswest236

Thanks Jim!  I'll be talking to the John on Monday, so I'll mention the oil galley issue. Do I need to wait for the finished block and heads before I measure for the pushrods?