Roadcraft bellhousing

Started by joe_padavano, April 30, 2021, 08:31:55 AM

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joe_padavano

Does anyone have any experience with Roadcraft and their BOPR-to-Ford T5 bellhousing? I've emailed to see if they ship to the U.S. and also asked about the input shaft length this bell is intended to accommodate, and so far only gotten crickets. Yeah, I'm aware D&D sells a bell and also adapter plates. This would be a direct bolt-in with no adapters to mess with.

Full disclosure, I have a 2002 Chevy T5 from a V6 F-body. This is a Ford-pattern case with a long input shaft and a factory hydraulic throwout bearing. Trying to mate this to a 1962 215. I suspect that in any case I may require a non-standard thickness spacer plate. This T5 has a unique bearing retainer that accepts the HTOB.

https://roadcraftuk.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=769

mgb260


turbodave

There is a lot to consider with dimensioning up a bell housing. The

I'm modifying a Disco auto bell to mate with a Ford T5, and will be using a concentric slave from a GM (LUK LSC265B - about $45)

A lot of factory and aftermarket concentric slaves are mounted to the front of the T5 but I wanted to mount mine inside the bell, so I can pull and re-install a trans without having to open up the hydraulics.

I attached some dimensions that I'm working on for my application, and the one that details the rear of the crank will aid you in figuring out how long your bell should be based on where the nose of the input fits inside the pilot bearing.
RV8_CRANK_REAR.png

turbodave

T5_bell.png



Pic of lengths needed for the Mustang T5 lengths
The mustang trans that is mentioned on Roadcrafts site is the fox 5.0 length; the SN95 input is longer.
You should be able to compare yours.

turbodave

The other interesting thing I found is that the McLeod Steel flywheel (from TS Automotive) is 1.1" from mounting face to clutch plate face, whereas the SD1 (and I assume all others) cast flywheel was 1.2".
Not much of a difference, but makes a difference when setting up the throw-out bearing positon (or specifically the concentric slave). I'm going to use a .060" shim that Landrover used between the flex plate and crank behind the steel flywheel, and also get the cast flywheel (for the spare engine) skimmed a little to bring the distances a little closer to the same as the steel.