WTB interim 3.9/4.2 bare block

[Ericsatt76]

I am looking for a particular rover engine block that was used in these applications:
3.9 liter, produced from April 1994 to October 1998 or
4.2 liter, produced from April 1994 to April 1996.
these blocks will bare the casting numbers   HRC 2411 (just above the oil pan and just in front of the bellhousing)
and have 2.300" main journals.

[turbodave]

Eric,

You also need to clarify if you want the earlier main caps or the full height main caps ( if that makes a difference to your needs) as the earlier interim blocks didn't have the full height caps (so can't be x-drilled).

[Ericsatt76]

it is my understanding the HRC2411 casting was the full height caps

[turbodave]

Negative. I also thought the same. The only way to be mostly sure is to buy from a 1995. I got a engine from a March 1994 hoping it was the full height and it was the regular caps but strangely had the Teflon button on the end of the cam as well.

I don't know when the changover date / number was, but Engine number 36D27262B was regular caps and 36D46550B was full height caps

[turbodave]

This is of the "interim" block I pulled the front cover off that had the nylon thrust button. Definitely the later block with the cross-bolt bosses, but the same caps as the non-cross bolted blocks.

[Ericsatt76]

what is the casting number

[Ericsatt76]

After a little reading

it seems blocks produced from January 1994 through April 1994. have later-style block castings,and were assembled with early-style 2-bolt main bearing caps. (like the one in the picture)

blocks produced from April 1994 through October 1998.  have later-style block castings, and they also have the full main bearing caps, but the caps haven't been drilled and tapped for cross-bolts.

I would take ether but prefer the later

[turbodave]

I know of another who had an engine from a disco with a June '94 build date (but he didn't write down the number before having the block skimmed) and that too was the short caps. If you do machine later for the side-bolts, you'll likely need to line-bore as they do pull in slightly. In the same way that if you don't do up the side bolts on a later block, the crank will often be tight.

Have you considered www.car-part.com ? I was put onto this a while ago, and it's very helpful.

Put in 1995 discovery, then for the part, first try "engine" , then try "engine block" then "engine Core"
You can sort by distance or price.
My experience, don't bother with the live chat or email - just call the folks on the number. Do have the "stock number" or other identifier at the ready though.

And of course, you need to avoid any with rusty bores and definitely with steam-cleaned pistons as that almost certainly means there is a crack behind the liner!

[Ericsatt76]

Hey Dave,

I have tried a few of those part sites most want to sell me the entire motor for an outrageous price.
Another sent me pictures charged my credit card but no block and no answer on the phone.
I had an email from a person on this site wanting me to send a  money order. So I am a little cautious but ill give this one a call thanks.

[turbodave]

Well, I've bought from all over the USA off that site, and never once had an issue. Lots of options within 150 miles of salt lake city (I've no idea where you are in Utah though)

[tr8todd]

I have a stack of blocks out in the garage.  One of them may be what you are looking for.  Are you willing to ship it from Massachusetts?  If so, I will start digging thru them.  Currently under a large stack of boxes and packaging material.  Commonly referred to as the shipping dept by the wife and kids.

[Ericsatt76]

Found one thanks for all the help good tip turbodave