Ford 5.0 and T5 clutch actuation

[MGBV8]

Been quietly waiting for Mike to show off the pics of his latest tweek to his car. Did an outstanding job, as usual.

[mgb260]

Mike, That is the H body Buick V6 bellhousing, originally cable clutch, pivot like late Ford. The best one to use behind a Buick V8. What throwout bearing are you using, GM T5  or Buick V6 original?

[Capt'n Moorgone]

Thanks guys, it worked out well. The bearing and fork are S10 OE, cheap. I'm running a Tilton 74 series master 3/4" bore. It bolts right up to the late pedal box. Did have to fab a push rod.  Mike

[Brownwood]

Hey Mike,  Can you provide a arts ;list for that clutch actuating rod from your slave cylinder?  Looks elegant and simple and I want to plagerize it!

[v8mgb]

I replaced my Mcleod hydraulic throw out bearing with a clutch fork and Wilwood pull type slave cylinder.  I am using a Buick 215 bell housing and a T5 Transmission.  The clutch fork has been cut off so it will fit in the transmission tunnel.  With a MG clutch master it provides about 1/2" of pull which is plenty.   Material from the clutch fork and bell housing needs to removed / ground away to provide clearance.  The picture doesn't show the return spring I added.    You will also replace the hydraulic fittings provided by Wilwood with ⅛" NPT to 4 AN 90° brass fittings.    

 Part Name -             PN -       Price -        Source -        Fits Vehicle                Notes
Clutch Fork -          14550 -    $29.79 -    Rock Auto -   80 Camaro V6 229 cid  - Dorman
Release Bearing -   908244-  $22.89 -    Rock Auto -   80 Camaro V6 229 cid   - SKF Part Number N1488
Slave Cylinder -    260-1333 - $76.50 -    Wilwood


Here is a link to a video showing the clutch in action.
https://youtu.be/jEZ_EHly7W0

[v8mgb]

More Pictures

[v8mgb]

More Pictures

[v8mgb]

More pictures

[v8mgb]

More Pictures

[Scott Costanzo]

Looks nice Jim! We're you having issues with your HTOB?

[v8mgb]

Yes the HTOB was releasing slow when the car was warm.  I replaced the clutch master which had no impact. I haven't torn into the HTOB to see what was wrong.  The first HTOB I installed lasted 10 years and I had it rebuilt by Mcleod as a preventive measure when I had the engine out for a paint job.  The rebuild only lasted 3 driving seasons.  Now if something goes wrong with the hydraulics I can make the repair without pulling the engine.  The reliability on this set up still needs to be established, season one starts soon.

[RDMG]

Good evening Gentlemen,

I'm inspired by this thread!  Inspiration always leads to questions...

I have a 215 4-speed bell, mated with an adapter to a Ford Mustang V8 T5. I'll use a ford 10.5" clutch.  I'm hoping I can stitch together a slave setup without TIG-welding my bellhousing.

Do GM clutch forks and T5 input shafts mate to Ford throwout bearings?  I have tried to find OD measurements for TBs on the web, but haven't had luck.  If they do, I think I can copy Jims setup exactly.

It looks like Mike's slave setup uses a fork with a 2-1 ratio with equal diameter slave cylinders.

Jim, does your cut Camaro fork have a 2-1 ratio as well?  Same size master and slave?  

I was admiring some Jeep forks on the web, and was wondering if they might work without mods:

http://www.the-jeep-guy.com/Transmission.htm

A few of them on that website appear to be 2-1, very short, and of a vintage that might share some dimensions with the Buick 215 (Jeeps had a v6 derived from the 215 for a while, I think).

Any advice on the right fork/slave/TB recipe for a Buick/Ford setup would be much appreciated.  

Dave

[mgb260]

Dave, The cable type clutch fork they use has the pivot ball on the opposite side from your 215. The Ford bearing retainer and throwout bearing has a larger diameter than the GM. You could use  the cable type Ford fork and move the pivot to the opposite side. The same size master and slave works OK but a size smaller master will give an easier pedal and longer throw. This link may help:

http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?40,3509466,page=4

[Scott Costanzo]

I have a 215 4-speed bell, mated with an adapter to a Ford Mustang V8 T5. I'll use a ford 10.5" clutch. I'm hoping I can stitch together a slave setup without TIG-welding my bellhousing.

Are you married to the Ford clutch for some reason? You could use a GM bearing retainer on your Ford T5 and keep all the components GM. You'd need to find (or have one made) a disc that matches up to the Ford input shaft. Seems an easier way to go to me.

[BlownMGB-V8]

The S10 clutch fork uses the far side pivot but is NOT a cable piece as it has a dimple in the actuator end and no cable slot. This makes it perfect for a push cylinder. It is also quite short which is helpful in those close confines.

I'm using it with a standard (but modified) BOP bell and the S/C will be positioned between the tranny mounting ears, bolted to the bell using a 3/4" Isuzu slave. Flange mount. I added about 1" to the mount surface of the bell and a bit of metal where the pivot rod goes on the other side.

Jim

[RDMG]

I have a ford foxbody clutch/pp setup in hand, but I'm not otherwise committed to a ford solution.

I was looking at my 90 Mustang foxbody Ford clutch fork, and it appears to have the same distance between pivot stud and input shaft centerlines that the Buick 215 bell does.  I need to confirm using precise means, but using a measuring tape it looks to be exactly the same.

If I cut the Ford fork in half and weld the "tail" onto the opposite end, and use an adjustable Ford-shaped pivot stud, I think I'll be good to go with a pull-type slave.  What could go wrong?

Probably a lot.  Will follow up with details this weekend.

[BlownMGB-V8]

Here's a photo with the Isuzu slave:



Jim