Flywheel adaptator ?

[Wotland]

Good morning from here and first happy new year.

I recently bought an aluminium flywheel. The seller told me it was for the rover v8.
But when I open the parcel...this flywheel doesn't suit the back of rover v8 crank. Nevertheless the seller confirmed to me the flywheel was removed from an Rover V8 engine.
I am pretty sure this one suit Buick 300 crank used to stroke the rover v8.


So my question, do you know I can use it on Rover V8 crank with an adaptator ?

Thank for your help.

[WedgeWorks1]

Dimitri-
Looks like you got an automatic transmission flywheel for a Rover V8. You need a manual transmission flywheel if that was your intention. You can not adapt this one for a clutch due to the material being thinned out on the back side of the flywheel and it looks like it is aluminum too. Did the seller say if it was from an automatic or manual transmission? Good luck.

[Wotland]

Thank you mike.

But I can confirm you it is an manual flywheel as it was sold with clutch assembly.
This flywheel is casted by Harvey Aluminium.

[Moderator]

Dimitri, I don't know the answer to your question... but I'd be very interested to see a photo of the opposite side of the flywheel. How much does this thing weigh? It sure looks light!

[hoffbug]

The patent number on the back is owned by Shiefer.. perhaps its the same as on this car??
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/JakeVoelckers.htm

Harvey was an aluminum caster in LA.. They did lots of contract work  for various speed equipment manufacturerers.. Schiefer included.

are there any other part numbers or markings on the flywheel?

[Wotland]

Thank all for this help to identify this flywheel.

It was sold with AP clutch assemblies.

It weighs 21LBS complete with clutch.

There is no other number to help to identify it.

[Moderator]

That's a sexy bit of kit there! 21# with pressure plate and clutches would probably suit my car quite nicely.

I wonder if this article might be helpful: Modifying Rover Crankshafts for use with T5 transmissions.

The Rover crank apparently shares bolt patterns with Buick cranks, but some of the later Rover cranks have an additional locating dowel-pin in between two of the six bolts. The article shows how to remove that. The Rover crank is also about 3/8" longer than a Buick crank, which interferes at the input shaft. The article shows how to trim the crank (to avoid the necessity of using a spacer at the bell-housing) - but that second trick requires removing the crank and putting it on a lathe.

Is there some other compatibility issue besides the pin or crank length? I'm curious: what sort of throw-out/slave will you be using?

[Dave]

Saaaa--weeeeet!!!

[BlownMGB-V8]

Dimitri, I got some measurements for you, first some photos:


In this one you can see that the bolt pattern for the 215(Rover) overlaps the bore of the 300 flywheel.


This is the 300/340, notice how the flange extends out beyond the face of the bellhousing.


This is the 215, notice the step in from the bellhousing flange to the machined surface surrounding the crank. The crank flange sits a few thousandths shy of 1/4" forward of the flange.

This means, from my measurements that there is approximately 0.978" that you have to work with to make an adapter. More than enough. The overlap of the holes can be dealt with two different ways. Either use countersunk socket head capscrews to attach the adapter to the 215 crank and recess them below the 300 flywheel, or bolt the flywheel to the adapter, face the pilot of the adapter off flush with the flywheel and drill the bolt holes through both pieces, and then of course use longer bolts. Finding the right length with shallow heads could be a challenge but the heads could be cut down. Grade 8 bolts should be correct for the application I believe but socket head capscrews are a higher grade, 9 perhaps. I don't remember exactly.

You should be able to easily find a machine shop to make this piece up for you. Be aware that the bolts are not evenly spaced around the bolt circle (The flywheel will only bolt up in one position.) and you will have to have the flywheel re-balanced. That will probably mean removing most of those heavy metal slugs.

I hope that helps you out. Good luck with your project, and I can't wait to hear how it affects your throttle response.

Jim

[Wotland]

Many Thank Jim.

I will try to make my own adaptator bolted to the flywheel. This one must be in steel or can be also in alumium ?

Dimitri

[BlownMGB-V8]

Either should work, just make sure you have enough thread engagement. Naturally steel is going to be much stronger.

Jim

[GT8MX]

I have a 2004 Rover 4.6 (from an *automatic*) that I intend to mate to an 85 Camaro V8 T5 (non-world class) via a BOP215 bellhousing.  I have it all bolted together (without flywheel, pressure plate or clutch) and mounted to the frame.  I was researching what I need to get, when I came across this thread.  Curtis' references: "Modifying Rover Crankshafts for use with T5 transmissions."  

From my reading of the article, I think I'm screwed.  

The engine is assembled so I can't shorten the crank (easily), the engine and tranny mounts are welded in so adding the spacer between engine and belhousing would require me moving the tranny mount (again), and I'm not sure that I have enough slop in the driveshaft so that it would still fit if I moved the tranny back 3/8"...

My question: Is the referenced article just a *good* way to mount a T5 to a Rover 4.6, or is it the *only* way?  

I thought mating the engine and tranny would be just a matter of buying the right flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch disk.

Yikes.

[BlownMGB-V8]

Bill, it makes a difference which T5 you have, GM or Ford pattern (be aware GM used some Ford pattern gearboxes).

Jim

[roverman]

FWIW, if it's not a sbb v8/v6 pattern, then perhaps Leyland 4.5L,(Aussie) ? Anyway, if enough material, drill your required pattern, in between the other holes.  Good Luck, roverman.