Thoughts and Recommendations on Dry Sump Oil Pumps

Started by BuddyHammond, November 01, 2012, 09:54:47 AM

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DC Townsend

For those who may be following this thread, thought I'd post a schematic of how my three-stage system is/is going to be plumbed. The only thing not shown is the line to the breather (typically from the very top of the oil tank). I will NOT be running the second, optional return line. As previously acknowledged, this system is already overkill for the car's intended use so there's no sense making it any more complicated than it already is.

One of the more important pieces of information missing from the drawing is the flow of each line, particularly at the oil filter adapter plate where there is only one line, meaning the second port is plugged.

3 stage dry sump.gif

The next diagram (credit to Moroso) shows you the flow of oil through the system and you can clear see the flow of oil into the filter plate through the single port. This is a small but important detail as you need to be sure you connect your incoming line to the correct port on the adapter plate. This diagram also shows you the breather plumbing as well as the inclusion of in-line filters on the two outgoing lines from the oil pan as well as a third line coming from the pan and a scavenge manifold which can be used but are not mandatory for the system to work well.

dry sump oil flow.gif

DC Townsend

For those who expressed an interest in my dry sump system, I took some time to do a write up. I still need to add the parts list and a shot or two on the oil filter relocation but, other than that, it's pretty complete.

The article can be found on my Garage site here: http://tempusfugitgarage.com/library/dry-sump-sbf/

DC Townsend

As promised, here's my parts list. A few caveats:

• When I could I bought parts on sale, especially fittings and hose, but the prices shown are for what's available today
• The oil tank I have is not offered anywhere I can find (Speedway used to have them), but you can buy what's called a "lefty" (for circle track cars) that's
pretty similar.
• The fittings listed are unique to my system and configuration but should serve as a good starting place for someone undertaking a similar system.
• The pan I have is no longer offered so what I priced is what is currently available. The only difference between the part listed and what I have is $200 and a coat of black paint. Go figure.
• I also couldn't find the part number for the oil filter adapter I have but it ports to the sides and not the top, something you need to consider
• I didn't include small stuff like the clamps I'm using to keep the hoses tight to the sill, various line clamps to help tie up hoses here and there, large AN washers needed for the bulkhead fittings, and the like so you'll need to budget for those as well.

Keep in mind that I bought two of my major components used - the oil tank and the 3-stage pump. Purchased new, you're probably looking at $300 or more for a decent baffled oil tank and about the same for a 2-stage oil pump. Those two parts would add another $500 to the price tag. As I've said a couple of times, it's not the hard parts that cost - it's the fittings and hoses that sneak up on you.

You should be sitting down when look at the bottom line. I'll also be adding this to my original post over on my Garage site for those who may be reading this for the first time and want to wander over there and get the whole story.
Dry-sump-parts-list.jpg

DC Townsend

An update on the dry sump.

Upper oil lines are in. The two with the filters (Petersen) are from the pan, the last one is from the tank. All of the lines pass through the fender well using bulkhead fittings. It makes for a bit of extra work but reduces the length of the line runs and, in the case of the lines from the tank, keeps them away from the exhaust. All of these lines have been reinforced with an inner coil to prevent them from collapsing.

I also plumbed the filter bypass (no pic) so all that's left is to run the two lines from the pan and the line from the tank to the fittings in the fender well (they're made, I just ran out of steam tonight). and finish plumbing the remote oil filter.
oil-lines.jpg

DC Townsend

Finally was able to get out in the garage and get some things done. Among which was locating the remote oil filter adapter and filter in a place that is convenient for plumbing and service. I know it looks like it will interfere with the tire but it's not so. Just to be sure, I mounted the tire and wheel and ran through the full range of suspension as well as the well arc. All is well.

I might have finished the last of the plumbing had I not come up short a couple of fittings and few feet of line. Ah well, something to do next weekend.

oil-filter.jpg