69 CONVERSION

[heyboomer]

I'm jumping in with both feet into a real 69 roadster BOPR conversion (SD1) with a T-5.
Looking for some real world advice.
-What is the best way to approach the front cross member and steering rack/linkage?
-What sheet metal work  needs to be done to the firewall.
Thanks

[Jim Stabe]

There are hundreds of how-to's with pictures here and on the MG Experience site. Look in the photo galleries under MGB's or in the journals. You don't want to jump in with both feet until you do some reading. You will also find that your questions will be better received if you demonstrate you have done some homework.

[Moderator]

Welcome to our website, Bill!  

I think you'll find this is a great community with lots of friendly and wise advice available for the asking. Jim's right that some of us do sort of tune out preliminary or non-specific questions at this point, but keep asking questions! Jim's also right that there's already a ton of info about swaps here - orders of magnitude more than any other source I know of - I think you'll find something like 600 articles on V8/V6 swaps if you check our article index and our MG photo galleries (from the pull-down menus above). Over 8000 photos, worth a thousand words each... Every question/answer ever posted on this board is still easily accessed. Play with the Google search box. It works pretty well once you get used to using it. Sometimes you need to try multiple keyword combinations before you find exactly what you're looking for.

The GREAT thing is how many perfectly valid ways there are to do various aspects of the BOPR swap! You'll want to think real hard before you decide what combination of parts and solutions match your own unique desires. Sheetmetal/tunnel/firewall mods depend first and foremost on where you place the BOPR motor. (If you buy pre-made motor mounts for the swap, they generally come in two versions based on whether or not they leave enough room for air conditioning. If you make your own mounts...)  On your other question, you'll probably find that no crossmember mods are needed, at least if you use a Buick oil pan and RV8-style headers. (I would certainly use through-the-wing headers if I were doing my swap again.) If anyone tells you to install a rubber-bumper crossmember, maybe you should ignore any further advice they give you...

Other advice? In random order... A BOPR engine block is light enough that you can single-handedly set it in the engine bay and take it back out over and over and over - which is a good thing when you're deciding about sheetmetal/crossmember/steering mods, etc.  (It's really nice to have a spare engine block and heads.) Don't throw anything away. If you keep an eye out, rare parts will find you if you're patient and they'll cost much less than if you're in a hurry. Want to buy something, why not post a "wanted" ad in our classified section? Measure twice, cut once... but don't get too worried because almost anything that gets screwed up can be fixed. Check out BritishRaceCar.com (our sister website) because you might find inspiration there. Most importantly, enjoy the whole process!

[Jim Stabe]

Bill and Curtis

I apologize, that is really no way to greet a new member to the board. Welcome Bill.

Jim