buick 215 block

[lacton]

I've always been partial to the Buick 215 and over the years have collected some parts, thinking about a standard stroke/big bore version.  Besides the block I have the 215 crank/balancer and '64 300 heads (also have the crank/balancer but prefer the short stroke of the 215).  The block would obviously need a bore/resleeve to match up with the heads.  The intake I have is a Huffaker/BL Motorsports.

I realize the best thing to do would be to start with a Rover block (4.0 or 4.6) but I'm not interested in high horsepower and the 2-bolt mains caps ought to be fine.  Are there pistons/rods which would work in the above combination?

[Jerminator96]

That depends, what bore do you want to run?

[lacton]

I guess whatever would best match up with the 300 heads.  There's an article that appeared in the March '85 issue of Hot Rod magazine that had different bores between 3.68" and 3.78", but they all used the 300 crank.

[ex-tyke]

For correct piston application, call Dan or Marc at D&D
http://www.aluminumv8.com/

[crashbash]

Good luck on the engine build Larry
I was looking at similar questions with the Olds block, for ever.  There are so many different ways of doing this.  D&D certainly has most of the options covered.  The 300 head will work on standard 215 bore I have found, and flows better stock than any of the stock Rover, Buick, Olds heads.  Pricing for rebore and new piston liners is way more than stroking option. Where is the 300 crank to go with your heads?  The 300 heads can be built to flow as much a 5L ford engines!
The general consensus is that you are better starting with the larger cubes 4 bolt main rover block and adding the 300 heads to this engiine.
But then the Rover engines have this little problem with liners shifting.......hmm  
I would go with what you have, see how you like it.  Lowest cost option.... Then plan for the big block Rover with wild stuff or the crate 5L ford for the next engine.  I like the idea of building an engine but when all is said and done it looks like the cost of the options will be a wash,   I'm waiting for some things to be done before I assemble my science experiment.  I didn't go with the cheapest options, nor the most expensive, but I will have a nice engine together before I'm ready to drive my "79 mgb rdst. v8 conversion.  I marvel at how beatiful that aluminum engine is......in my kitchen.......

[Jerminator96]

I guess whatever would best match up with the 300 heads.  There's an article that appeared in the March '85 issue of Hot Rod magazine that had different bores between 3.68" and 3.78", but they all used the 300 crank.

Well if you want a bigger bore then I would say just pick the one with the most piston options.  The 4.6L Ford has a 90.2mm bore, that would give you a lot of options in compression height.

3.78 is the factory bore for the GenIII GM 4.8 and 5.3 motors, so there are probably at least a couple options there.

[roverman]

Larry and clan, If you "must" use a 215", I suggest ditching the rope main seal and timing cover seal. Using a 1pc.-Viton rear seal, requires machining a counter bore in rear of main cap and block. I use an older style clinder boring bar for this operation.Newer desing timing covers have provision for non-rope front seals. I also suggest, "mains studs" as a reasonable alternative to main caps wiggiling and ruining the block. If you re-sleeve, you can look a 305" sbc pistons. "Icon" forged, are a bargain. Good Luck, roverman.