Ford T5 trans to bell housing bolts

Started by rficalora, March 16, 2019, 01:10:11 PM

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rficalora

I'm ready to swap out my transmission.  I'd prefer not to pull the motor if I don't need to so I don't need to disconnect my AC (<25k miles so not replacing the clutch).  Can someone remind me whether the bolts going through the trans into the bell housing go into threaded holes on the bell or have nuts inside it?

mgb260

Rob, Stock had threaded holes. Are you changing the rear gears also? Taller tires?

rficalora

Thanks Jim.  That's what I was thinking but I have a nagging feeling I had through bolts for some reason.  I have a cheap USB scope for my phone; I think I'll see if I can get a look before trying to pull it apart.

No change to rear gear (3.54) or tire height (23.9").  Just getting a better 1st gear ratio (2.95 vs 3.35).  Have had the 2.95 trans for a while but have had too much else going on to swap it in.  If I can do it without pulling the motor, it's a faster/easier job and I might be able to help a buddy who's looking for a T5 to go behind his in progress 302 swap.

3/17/19 Update... I was able to use the $15 USB scope connected to my phone to see all 4 bolts inside the bell housing.  They definitely go into threaded holes...  Here's one example:
190317_130405.jpg

MGBV8

I have never had a tranny that was mounted with nuts inside the bell housing.  Of course, with the Buick 215, one could possibly still reach inside with a wrench.
Carl

rficalora

Me either Carl.  But my memory was playing tricks with me & I kept picturing through bolts with nuts so I figured I'd check before loosening one only to not be able to get it fully out.  I don't want my car down for any length of time, so wanted to be sure I knew what I was in for before I started it.

minorv8

Rover LT77 and R380 have bolts inside the bellhousing.

MGBV8

Carl

40indianss

Brit engineering often seems to try to do things as backassward as possible

BlownMGB-V8

It's so that when you go to service the clutch you can do a proper job of it. Pull the engine and transmission as a unit, break it down, and carefully inspect each item from the comfort of your workbench, then reassemble and test fully before reinstalling in the car. you know, the right way, as it should be done. With no short cuts.  :P

Jim

minorv8

Oh yeah, or when you need to fix a small oil leak (o-ring for gear change in the gearbox rear casing ). Rip the front of car apart, pull the engine and box out and then you get the great idea to check everything :-). The end result of all this is a completely new short block and the O-ring of course.


20190106_200831.jpg

BlownMGB-V8

Yes. Clearly it is an opportunity to catch emerging issues and nip it in the bud. After all Jukka, you might have gone another 10K miles before you even knew anything was wrong (Gasp!), that could be over two whole seasons for some of us. Couldn't have that now could we?

Jim

minorv8

Yes indeed, when I took the engine apart I saw that the rod bearings were pretty much done. Also the input shaft of the gearbox and too much endplay so that got fixed too.

The priceless moment though; engine and box bolted in, driveshaft bolted on the box, next the clutch slave cylinder... And it does not fit. Impossible because it  has not been replaced. What gives ? And then you really start to think, did I have 2 different  clutch fork pivot pins on my work bench ? Yes I did. Which one is still on the bench ? The shorter one. Exactly the pin that is supposed to be fitted. So, engine out, split the engine and box, swap the pin, mate the engine and box, and so on. How easy it would be if you could just rmove 4 bolts and yank the gearbox out...

BlownMGB-V8

One of those "Gotcha" moments for sure.

Jim

MGBV8

You did all that just to pull the engine & tranny?!  Wow.
Carl

tbo

Carl . I think it was to change the leaky O ring LOL


minorv8

Yeah I guess I forgot something when I built the car 20 years ago: I should have considered how to take the thing easily apart. Like the steering rack, it will end up where the front suspension design requires it to be. In my case it is 1/4" below the oil pan and maybe an 1" in front of the pan. So, basically under the engine. Now, to remove the engine I need to remove the rack... Also, the floor is fabricated around the bellhousing / box, maybe an inch of clearance around them.

But it is not so bad, I can get the engine/box combo out in about 4-5 hours.

BlownMGB-V8

That's way easier than changing a heater blower on a new car.

Jim