GT6+ Buick V6 resurrection.

[Richard/SIA]

Just reviewed all the Spit/GT6 BOP-R build threads I could find.
Looked at those as the Buick V6 is very similar, just two cylinders shorter.
Apparently I've made this much harder by insisting on setting the engine back behind the steering rack and not cutting the bonnet.
Next few days build are welding jobs.
Complete the chassis reinforcement and tack in the engine/trans mounts.

With that finally done I will be in better shape to go after the front suspension and steering.

[dbeliveau]

Richard, A few years ago as I was collecting info for my Spitfire build I came across a GT6 convertible with a Buick 215 that the owner stretched 8 inches by adding 8 inches to the frame in front of the fire wall and behind the front shock towers. I can't find the picture of it but it looked really good used a GT6 bonnet and added 8 inches to it. Attached are some pics of my Spit:

[Richard/SIA]

Frame reinforcement tubes are finally in.
Not pretty but once I welded them full length to the chassis rails internally and to each other the frame feels very solid.
Prior to welding it had a lot of similarities to a tuning fork.

Still have to dimple the upper tube on the passenger side and then weld in the plate to box it all.

I clamped the chassis to my leveled stands before doing the heavy welding in hope that it would help to prevent twisting,
Will have a look after it cools.

Extending the chassis would certainly make fitting the engine easier but would also make a long narrow wheelbase/track.
Trying to keep this looking as stock externally as possible.

[Richard/SIA]

Engine mounts are in!
Transmission side of the trans mount is made!

Still have to complete the chassis side of the trans mount.
Trans mount is being much more complex than the engine mounts.
The funny Camaro T5 mount angle is NOT a help.

I will also be reinforcing the engine mounts a bit.
They are not "solid" mounts but are overbuilt.
Pretty sure the engine is now a frame stiffener.

Pics in a couple more days after the final frame reinforcements are fully welded.

[Anarchy99]

I'm pretty sure my GT6 has been stretched by a previous owner. I can take measurements when I get back off of this trip if you'd like

[Richard/SIA]

Engine and trans mounts are all in at last.
Ended up welding in the trans mount despite my desire to bolt it on.
Really would not have been able to get to the top of the bolts anyway.
Trying to keep future service in mind without having to remove the body for things like changing the clutch.

Major frame mods are almost complete.
One more set of flat strips to go on the passenger side and a notch in the front cross-member.
From there I will be able to rotate the frame for only a little final welding of mounts.

Not all of the welds are pretty but they are strong.
Thinking of using a little body sealer for cosmetics, rather than more welding?

Should b ready for pics in a couple more days.

[Richard/SIA]

Drivers side now boxed, the more complex passenger side is almost done.
Not pretty but the frame has never been this solid before.
There are three 1" tubes in there plus the flat stock boxing it over.






Second design for the rear trans mount.
I've tried to keep at least 1/2" clearance for anything that might move around a bit.
Used oversize mounts to make that sufficient.
Kind of pleased with my use of the original exhaust cut-out to be able to reach the trans retaining bolt.

[Richard/SIA]

Finally got the last of the passenger side boxed tonight.
Still have to grind and touch up some welds but it's a major milestone in the build.

Now I should be able to turn the frame on it's side or upside down for the remaining small welds.

With the engine and trans mounting complete I will be able to get back into the diff mounting and rear suspension.

[mgb260]

Richard, You could replace the carb spacer with the 3/8" thick multi-layer gasket for more hood clearance. Have you done any more work on the throttle body adapters?

[Richard/SIA]

Not sure what will happen with my work space in the new year so I have concentrated on the chassis.
Originally it was shared to keep expense down.
Now carrying it alone which is eating up the parts budget.
Hoping the new year does better but the news is full of financial gloom and doom.

Carb will be much simpler than F.I. so I'm starting with that and hoping the I.R. setup can be done later.

[Richard/SIA]

Finally got the last of the useless frame brackets and reinforcements from the prior butcher job removed.
Did a little more welding so nearly done with that until I start on the rear IRS.
Have to repair the cord on my grinder but getting close to being able to clean, prime, and seam seal most of the frame.
Bought silver acrylic enamel for the frame, firewall, and under the bonnet.

[Richard/SIA]

What I hoped would be the last trial fit of the drive-train turns out to be the next to last?
Happily it all goes in and out of the mounts pretty easily.

Have to make one more set of frame notches to clear the oil pan under the timing cover.
Good news is that everything else clears well and I can even get the starter in and out from underneath.

[Richard/SIA]

Last set of front cross-member notches work fine but I may modify them a little for appearance and to be less of a dirt trap.

Now mocking up the rear diff position and mounts.

Also began to work on lower A arm mounts.
Have some pics similar to my plan I've saved from various sites which I need to review.
Recently got a spare Merkur diff for $50.00.

If rain and snow ever end I will get some updated pics.

[Richard/SIA]

Only recent progress has been finagling the rear brake conversion to work with the Merkur diff and axles.
Upright is going to be custom, hoping to do a billet version similar to TVR M series.
Or I can make life easier and just fabricate them in steel.

Using Merkur bolt-on rear stub axles, 4x108 which is the same as My Alfa Spider.
Focus rear rotors are a direct fit, I'm using the 10" dia.
Looking like Audi A4 aluminum calipers.
I may have to swap sides to mount them at the front since my shocks go to the rear.
Seems a reasonable answer to get functional parking brakes at under $100.00 each.
Not looking to use the Merkur Scorpio calipers due to cost, somewhat difficult to locate, and cast iron.

Need the rear brake system sorted out in order to finish the upright and A arm designs.

[Richard/SIA]

Not able to do much with having to move the shop.
Hate to lose the space but will save $8K a year that should be going to parts.

Did play with the MC throttle bodies a bit more.
Have decided that trying to bore the bottom round is not likely to be practical.
They are quite thin walled and would end up even thinner with very narrow sealing surfaces.
All that before I can even get them to being truly round.

Now wondering about BMW ITB's, anyone have more info on them?
Not as cheap as the MC bits, around $300.00 for a set.
Thinking they may be just a bit larger?

[Richard/SIA]

Got a pricing answer from TWM on their F.I. bodies.
Kind of expensive at this time, but probably the best available answer if I can swing the swag to pay for them.
If I go this route I will have more into the engine than the rest of the car, and I started with a virtually FREE engine!

"The 3 BBL bodies are being phased out but we still have a few sets available..46mm only which is perfect for you.

2 x 46mm 3bbl Bodies with Integrated Fuel Rails
TPS with plug and pins
6 x Fuel Injectors for your HP and RPM needs
$1940 Delivered to RENO".

Anyone familiar with OBX Racing ITB's?
Available on Fee-Bay for about $100.00 each.

[Richard/SIA]

Not sure why the prior post showed up twice.

Editing with a minor update.
Got some calipers today so I can do more work on the brakes.

[Richard/SIA]

Moved all my CNC stuff to a new shop so now have all the cars in the old shop.
NEVER want to do a move like this again!

Have almost completed the rear adapter to put the body on my rotisserie.
Front does not need any adapter.
Will put up a pic once the welds are finished.

Still have to set the two post lift up.
Did reinforce my frame stands so that they will be safer with the engine and trans in place.

Lost too much production time I need to make up, so probably not much to report for the couple of weeks.

[Richard/SIA]

Here is the nearly complete rear attachment frame.
The raised hoop bolts to the rear body mounts.
The two angle iron extensions will go to the trailing arm mounts.

[Moderator]

Test 2

[Richard/SIA]

Shop move nearly complete so time for a pic.
Still need to complete the two post lift install but the hard part is done.

Now to trial fit the engine again to see if the Weber style throttle bodies will clear the bonnet.
If they will the next task becomes saving funds for the purchase.

[Richard/SIA]

Two post lift completed.
Also bought some aluminum rear uprights that use Sierra hubs.
They came with new CV boots and a set of new axles I may be able modify for my use.

Now to get some free time to actually do work on the Trick-6 again.

[Richard/SIA]

Playing around with my new rear uprights I got some rough numbers to try in my simulation software.
Frustrating wast of time to work with guess's.
Got better numbers and tried them in Speed-Wiz.

I can get very good numbers and avoid positive camber entirely for bump and lift, but no matter what I try I cannot seem to avoid negative camber on the out-side wheel in body roll.
Probably missing something basic, but what?
Or am I seeking the impossible for a simple upper and lower A arm setup?
So far I've mostly kept the lower arm level and played around with upper arm length, and some variation in inner pivot point heights.

Looked at my frame and the numbers I was happiest with.
Looks like a simple set of cross-mounts and reinforcement will work.
May also be able to attach the upper diff mounts to them.

A bit of refinement and I may be able to start making parts soon.

[Richard/SIA]

Closing in on my design.
Looks like I will be shortening the aluminum uprights I bought.
From 10" bolt to bolt vertically to 8.5".
This will also reduce the kick at the top around .75", need to fixture them for better measurements.

Still wrestling with weather or not to use equal length upper and lower arms?
Upper mount can be whatever I need, lower is pretty well dictated by the frame width, about 9" long max.
I have some pretty good numbers using equal length arms but am not getting the type of camber change I want.

Looks like the lower shock mount will have to be to the top of the outer end of the rear arm link.
Not ideal but lets me retain the original upper mount.

Speaking of the arms, my plan is bushes at the inside and rose joints for adjustment on the outer ends.
Would actually prefer bushes at both ends but the adjustable type I would need do not appear to be available in a correct size and would be a real chore to make myself.

I may have to complete the upright mods in order to take another run at the upper arm geometry.

[Richard/SIA]

Not sure if this was a good move or not, but I just bought another nearly complete GT6.
Turns out to be a '68 so not a Plus.
Has sat for a long time but the engine turns over and the drive-train is complete.
Probably sell-off what I cannot use.