Allagaitor Hardtop vs glossy smooth

Started by roverman, March 25, 2012, 10:15:34 PM

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roverman

As in fake vinyl top on f-glass lift-off.  Plan is to grind off the "pattern" and paint body color, glossy. Problem is, it has hi/low areas that won't just sand out. Short of using 1/4" of bondo to fill, what is my best option here ? I also want to add sail panels/ flying buttresses attached seamlessly to top.  Thanks, roverman.

Moderator

Without knowing more than you've posted, I expect the best option is to lay-up a brand new hardtop. (In other words, use the old hardtop as a "plug" and don't worry about applying Bondo to it.)
1971 MGB GT V8
Buick 215 w/ Rover heads, custom EFI & crank-fired ignition.
Custom front and rear coilover suspensions.

Bill Young

Art, some wavyness is to be expected from fiberglass parts unless they are very well reinforced when laid up. I'd check with Dave Craddock at Preform Resources, he's the expert with glass around here.

roverman

Ultimately, I would like this to have a Targa top, (see rendition). I've had enough project migration already. I need to get the car running, without too many diversions, as I know there will be ample sorting-out to do. Onward, roverman.

Preform Resources

Art, there are a few diferent tricks you can use, if you go the bondo route, use the light weight stuff and spread it on thin and don't over catalyze it, if it's too thick or gets hot when going off it could warp the substrate, use a cheese grater(surform)
ot clean off the high spots and repeat, if you have a 9" DA sander it will make your work a little easier.
OR; you could get some West system epoxy (user friendly get it at marine supplies) and micro balloons, mix the epoxy well add micro balloons to make a paste then put it on with a squeegee, shouldn't sand too bad you will still need bondo or poly glazing putty to perfect the surface and / or ,you probably still should use  a high build poly primer.

We use Duratec products for priming and surfacing our models, they have a high build base primer 707-051 and
a dark gray surfacing primer 707-002  they are in Bloomington,CA. 909-877-8477. Good luck
Dave



w

roverman

Thanks Dave and clan. Good information. I wish there was a way to safely foam/etc.,fill the air space between the outer skin and inner plastic liner, without ballooning ?  Thanks,all, roverman.

NCtim

Art,

Great Stuff makes a door and window jamb sprayable foam insulation that I use all the time. It never hardens and stays pliable for years. It's not UV resistant so you it's for hidden areas. Don't use the regular stuff as it will continue to expand and that's why you don't use it around doors or windows. Get it at Home Depot or Lowes.

NCtim

roverman

Tim, Great Stuff is not the regular stuff ? Expansion would make thr fiberglass top and plastic liner, even more wavy ! I thought of pouring in polystyrene balls before sealing the f-glass mods. Cheers, roverman.

NCtim

Geez Art,

I completely missed your reply. Sorry! Been busy. Great Stuff makes a white foam that comes in a blue can specifically for filling gaps around doors and windows in new construction. It's pliable and stops expanding when there's no more room for it to expand.

Cheers,
NCtim

roverman

Thanks Tim, That's good news. I'll put that in my notes, when I get back to Hemi Healey. As for now, I've stopped practicing "random act's of mutiple auto projects". This means Huffaker GT-1, only, for now. Cheers, roverman.