Water Temp

[deltadave]

Hey guys
I don't know much about MGB's. I have a 300HP Chev 350 stuffed in a TD and never goes above 200 degrees even in 90 degree weather here in middle Tennessee. It has a 180 degree thermostate, very small 13"X19' large core custom aluminum radiator from Bryce Thomas, they are great to work with, talked to them about the engine, sent pics of the engine bay and and max dimensions and three days after we agreed on everything it arrived at my home for under $400.  13" electric fan(switched but runs all the time), B&M oil cooler and wraped headers. I never drive the car in rain and I'm willing to replace the headers if need be, you can put your hand on the header wrap with engine running. The TD does have louvers down each side of the hood that helps get the heat out.  I feel anything over 200 degrees is not good. I'm not an automotive engineer, but this all works for me. Just a note, I used the modified TD radiator at first, but it overheated, so I think a good radiator is the ticket. As you can see in the pics there is not much room and no room for a larger radiator, only a thicker core.

[smelfi]

X2 on not using header wrap. I used header wrap on a built up 350 Olds some years ago. In less than a year the headers had rusted out holes at the bends where the runners meet the collectors. I could push my fingers through some of the rusted areas on the runners. The car was never driven in rain or cold weather and I had maybe 1,000 miles on the headers.

[rzayas66]

Just an update: have managed to sneak in around 200 miles of city and freeway driving (80 mph) and the car is sticking around 200. Have a tachometer to retro fit and then will schedule a trip to Vegas. Still relatively warm out here, and the Baker grade is a serious 4000' grade that has killed two of my MG engines over the last 20 years. If the car does well on that trip, then I think it will be bullet proof. Will let you know how it goes.

Ron

[burner1]

When I first put my V6 together mine ran hot. I had an oil temp gauge as well as water temp gauge. One thing I noticed is the water temp found a spot and stayed there just like it should.......for a while. As I drove the oil temp would start coming up, till it reached the water temp then it would keep on climbing. At some point with the oil temp rising above the water temp it would begin to bring the water temp up.

I was limited to about 10 mile drives in the beginning. Watching the oil temps bring up the temps, I decided to put in an oil cooler; and not in the conventional location. I put it under the front valance:



With the oil cooler in, my temp problems completely went away. In the cooler weather it even runs a little on the cool side.

One problem I did have was with hook up problems (which were my own doing of course). At the track at the Indy meet I had an oil line rub the dampener until it cut the line. No damage to the car but mad did I cover the entire engine bay and belly of the car with oil.

I replaced the hose which latter came off. I did not catch it till the engine started making noise. Actually I did hear a noise behind the dash which sounded like an electrical fan. I was trying to figure it out when the engine started clacking from the lifters losing pressure. I look down to no pressure and turned the key off and coasted to  a stop. The hose I replaced came off under the car and again I sprayed the belly with oil. Protecting the metal I guess....

The 2.8-3.4 make a lot of pressure. My point here is watch the oil lines and consider that when doing so. Run the lines as short as possible and keep in mind they run high pressures; especially at start up.

I took a deep breath and pulled the engine. I replaced the main/rod bearings. It was not hard to do while they were out. They were only mildly scuffed. Cam and everything else looks good.

I took this time to do some things I had been thinking about....but that I really don't have time to do.......I love the fuel injection, I love playing with it, tweaking it, tuning it, how the cars but I did a poor job in application...meaning the engine look like it was taken over by an octopus from all the wires.

I decided to go back to carb and I wanted to clean the wiring...What was a fix has turned into a big project again. I have been making aluminum panels here and there, fixing this an that....

[deltadave]

I'll toss in my two cents. I'm no way an expert on cooling systems or MGB's. My TD has a 300hp Chevy 350 shoe-horned into it and never gets over 200 degrees, even in high 90 degrees summer days in middle Tennessee. I feel a good radiator is the most important component. I tried to use the TD unit modified, but the car ran hot. I purchased a custom aluminum radiator from Bryce Thomas intercoolers. They are great to deal with. After sending dimensions,photos and talking with them, the radiatior arrived at my house three days later for under $400. The max dimensions that will fit the shell are only 14" X 20", so a thicker core is the only option. I use a 13" electric fan that's switched but runs all the time, and also a B&M engine oil cooler. I also wrapped the headers, and think the good outweighs the bad. I can touch the wrap with the engine running and the cabin temp went down to nothing, almost no engine heat.