Oil Sender Unit

[rzayas66]

Ok, I am so close. My engine (V6 Chevy 2.8L from an 83 S10) is installed and running, as is my 5 speed T-5 from a V8 Camaro (that was the longest 4 months of my life). The car runs and seems fine, except for the fact that I get a loud ticking sound that was not there before (I rebuilt the engine before installing it in my 79 MGB).

I feel like the car is not circulating oil. The block temp (using an infrared thermometer) stays around 190-200 after running for twenty minutes or so. I also get a little white smoke (light) coming from the valve cover if I remove the oil cap.

When I installed the Classic Conversion headers, I had to remove the oil pressure switch along with the 90 degree adapter so the header would fit. The oil filter is now screwed directly into block. Afraid to drive the car without being certain that oil is circulating. I ordered a remote oil filter adapter from a speed shop, but it does not provide a place for the oil pressure switch to screw into, so I am no further along.

So two questions: 1) What has anyone done to install a new OPS on this type of engine? 2) How can I assure myself that oil is circulating?

Thank you.

[Bill Young]

Ron, if you look closely at the side of the block where the oil filter attaches you should see a small pipe plug just about at the 11 o'clock position and about a half inch from the seal edge. That's where the oil pressure switch would be installed. You'll probably have to fit a 45 degree fitting and an extension to that to get enough clearance for the switch depending on what style switch you are using.
As for making sure oil is circulating just remove one of the valve covers. If there's oil up on the rocker arms and in that area you have circulation as the oil path is up through the lifter and pushrod to the rocker. As you've had the engine running for such a period of time to warm it up I figure that if you didn't have circulation you'd be hearing a lot worse than a ticking at this point.
The ticking sound may well be just a lifter that has collapsed. Check the valve clearances again, one is probably loose at this point while the rest are most likely ok.

[rzayas66]

Thanks, Bill. As soon as 5 p.m. rolls around I will jump underneath the car and check that out and then check the valves. So anxious to take my baby out...

Thank you,
Ron

[deltadave]

1. I'm not familiar with the v6, but here is what I know about the Chevy v8. Check the engine block under the distributor and you may find a 1/8 NPT plug. Remove the plug and screw in your sender. You will need a 45 degree brass street elbow(male/female).
You could drill and tap into the oil passage of the remote filter adapter or put a tee in the line to pick up pressure for a sender.

2. Most of the time if you remove the filler cap in the valve cover and look in with the engine running you will see oil flowing from a rocker-arm. On some valve covers there is a baffle that prevents you from seeing into the valve area, so you will have to remove the cover.

I have an engine oil cooler on my TD because the engine bay is stuffed full, but never checked the oil temp. I'm able to touch the oil return line without getting burned, so I would believe the temp to be around 150 degrees.


hope some of this helps, take care, Dave

[Bill Young]

As for oil temperatures, the 2.8 in the Midget runs a 170 degree thermostat for the cooler and usualy stays right around there up to around 180 or so, but sometimes on the highway on a warm day I have seen temps up around 225 degrees. With modern oils a cooler probably isn't needed as the oils will certainly handle higher temps, but for me it was just a bit of insurance when I built the car and didn't know for sure. By the way, that temp is measured by a Stewart Warner gauge with the sender located in the oil pan.