Crossmember

Started by pspeaks, March 07, 2010, 02:28:44 AM

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pspeaks

At the back of the transmission tunnel there is a crossmember; does that have to be modified or removed.



"P"

pspeaks

I forgot to mention I reached a milestone today guys, my 302 is actually setting in the car; not bolted down yet, but at least it isn't setting on the floor.  Motor mounts have been fabricated and I'm waiting for enough energy to weld them in and start rebuilding the firewall.
PS 302.JPG

ex-tyke

There are 2 crossmembers - one removable (bolt-on)  for the xsmn mounting and one fixed (part of the unibody). You need both..... but both can be modified to fit your personal installation requirements.
Some folks like to make the fixed xmbr a bolt in piece to facilitate engine/xsmn removal - but it is there for body integrity, so don't skimp.

classic conversions

This is what Graham is talking about
DSC00082.JPG

pspeaks

Thanks guys, that's a pretty nice mod; I think I'll try that.


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MGB-FV8

It's a superb idea; I'm going to modify my car too.  Thanks Bill.

pspeaks

Bill, are the end plates 3/16" ? The base material isn't all that thick so I'm assuming there is no need in over engineering here.



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BlownMGB-V8

Guys, before you jump in and start cutting, just bear in mind that it will be almost impossible to regain what is lost, and most guys find they can remove the transmission with the stock crossmember in place.

JB

Moderator

QuoteGuys, before you jump in and start cutting...

+1  

My original crossmember has never cramped my style at all... and I reckon I've got my transmission mounted about as far rearward as anyone.
1971 MGB GT V8
Buick 215 w/ Rover heads, custom EFI & crank-fired ignition.
Custom front and rear coilover suspensions.

classic conversions

The plates are 1/4" The may point to consider is the holes for the bolts need to be just large enough for the bolt to fit.
The force is not on the plates, it is concentrated on the center of the plate via the tube on each side. The bolts hold the plates together.

The difference is that I can remove the trans faster and easier. As for stiffeness, there are no issues with mine.
I have done this since my first MGB race car back in 1971. There is no difference between this crossmember and any other unit construction body which is wider, longer and less crossmembers.

When I service my car I use to jacks on each side, while doing this there is not flex on the body. Doors can be open the same.
I have tried without the crossmember and the doors have just a litle drag on them on the RD and nothing on the GT..

It works for me, but it may not work for anyone else for what ever reason, which I am sure is valid to them.
I just know what I have experience.

I am not trying to convince anyone to do anything, just sharing what has worked for me.