I honestly don't know why it's taken you guys this long to start setting this up.

In the early days the meet was completely informal, no reason why you couldn't do that sort of thing there as well. Set up a sort of ala-carte schedule and do what you like with whoever else is doing it. It worked. Sometimes we had only one or two doing some things but that's all you need really. The parking lot has always been the big event.

Jim

Are y'all trying to snap my attendance streak?!

I thought Colorado Springs was a long haul.  Silverdale, WA is twice as far away.  I will be very surprised if there is much participation from East of the Mighty Mississippi.  We are all getting older & seem less enthused about long trips in our LBCs.  When I attended my 1st V8 meet in 1998, I had no idea that it would continue anywhere near this long.

I believe it would likely wind up being a British V8 meet West & East that year.  Actually, I would have thought that this would have already been the norm years ago.

That's what the Sunbeam guys do, East and West. They call them Invasions and try to time them with other British car shows. I think they are usually 3 days.

Carl, you would get the longest distance award!

Second attempt at the brazing thing. Supposed to hit 75 today so maybe the sun can heat it up a bit.

Scott, Don't try to heat the whole area. Just a couple inches at a time going back and forth side to side until it is stitched all the way around. Then go back over it with the torch to melt it together..

I was awarded a 32 oz glass beer mug trophy at the Cincinnati, Ohio car show one year for Long Distance award.  I drove my B to Jim Blackwood's, then drove the Roadmaster to the show.

At our British V8 meets, we don't do awards & trophies.  Although, we do occasionally give out a hard luck award.

So, here's the new brazing rig, straight Mapp gas. (Thanks Jim)

Scott, that torch always worked the best for me. You can improve your oxygen cylinder with a threaded adapter and Medical oxygen tank. How'd it go?

After warming it up in the sun for 3 hours, then putting a small space heater next to it for a while, we whipped out the Mapp torch. It still took about 5 minutes of heating the area with the torch before the rod would melt/flow. Not having any clamp that would work, I tried doing one area hoping it would work like a tac weld. As soon as I heated the other side up, the first area let go. Eventually I got enough to hold that i could work around the joint. I did the inside as well which was tricky as the rod material wants to fall out the other side. I need to grind it down more and see what it looks like. I may add some epoxy to fill any pin holes.
Thanks for the tips guys!

Looks great!

Hard to beat success. Odd that it broke there in the first place.

Jim

Should know in a few days what happened to #4 cylinder. Probably a ring failure, but we'll see.

I'm stumped. I'm reading that Olds 215 heads have the extra 6th head bolt. Olds heads have 5 valve cover bolts. My heads have 5 valve cover bolts but only 5 head bolts. Its number on the head reads S 929606. Stamped upside down on the block under the head id # reads HI 305065. That number appears to be a Buick number (1962 High compression 4 barrel). Its supposed to be an Olds 215 with Olds heads. supposedly  you cant use the Olds heads on a Buick due to the extra bolt (unless you drill and tap the block for the extra bolt. There is no 6th bolt on my heads. What am I missing?

Scott, The rocker shaft hold down bolts are the 6th head bolts. After you pull the heads you should see 4 steam holes in the block near the valley that match the small holes in the head. The head gasket needs to have those holes too. Jon's block also has a Buick #. Maybe the factory ran short and tapped the extra head bolt holes and drilled the steam holes?

Scott these images may be useful when you assemble:  Use 55ftlb TQ on heads    Main TQ 55ftlb except rear is 65ftlb     Intake TQ 25ftlb  Rod bolt TQ 35 ftlb

Looks like a Buick head to me.  The rocker shaft/head bolts on the Olds 215 line up with the bottom head bolts

Thanks Jim. I know the internet can provide bad info depending on who wrote it. There are sites that tell me only the Olds 215 heads have 5 valve cover bolts, which i have. Also, it's out there that the sixth head bolt is on the intake manifold side of each head. It is also stated that the Buick head can bolt on the Olds block but not the other way around. My Block has HI 305065 stamped on it under the numbers stamped on the head, which according to my reading is a 1962 Buick High compression 4 barrel model. On the head it has S 929606 which is supposedly an Olds number signifying 155 HP. When I get the heads off, it might be clearer to determine. Also read that the top of the Buick heads are more parallel to the ground and the top of the Olds heads are parallel to the block top surface;  don't know about that either

Scott, Jon has a Buick block too. The sixth hole was drilled and tapped and the four steam holes drilled on each side. The Olds uses bigger 7/16 bolts for the rockers, Buick uses 3/8. Carl ,I think it is the angle of the photo and I don't think the bolt holes are perfectly in alignment. Look at the size of the rocker hold down bolt heads and the five valve cover bolt holes.

Image of Olds head compared to Buick head. Note the rocker mount bosses. Plus the angle of the valve cover mounting.

I believe you are correct, Jim.  That photo threw me off.  The prior pic showing both heads on the block definitely is Olds 215.  The valve cover bolts, as well.

Olds head gasket.

I have argued for years that the Olds head can be used on the Buick block.  As Jim said, the block has to be prepped for it.  I have had some say the the Buick block does not have the bosses for the 6th bolt.  Obviously, they do.  Rover deleted those bosses.

It's kind of an odd coincidence that both Scott's and Jon's are both Buick blocks. Did previous owners modify the blocks or the Olds factory?

I knew it was doable, but this is the first time I have seen it done.  I am surprised that the Buick & Olds block carry different part #s.  What other block differences are there?

Thanks Guys, I'm removing the heads hopefully this week. We may get confirmation on the 6th bolt then.

I got the heads off and it looks to me the head gasket failed in a couple of spots. But more importantly you guys can tell me if it's been modified to accept the olds head on the Buick block. I dont know which holes I'm supposed to be looking at. Also, it appears now that the motor is stuck. I cant turn it over. After i tried the Solvent mixture to the offending cylinder and let it sit for a few days, drained the oil , refilled it and started it it sounded bad, so i shut it off. May have unstuck a ring which now is wedged maybe?? I dont know?