Calvin Grannis' 1974 TR6 with LS1 (project diary)

[74ls1tr6]

This pic is where a plate was made for the trailing arm mount bolts on the inside of frame box.



This is another pic of the plate welded in for the vertical section that was boxed in to strenthen the front diff tower area.

[74ls1tr6]

The bottom of the flowmaster 40's are about the same distance from the ground as the attachment link for the rear swaybar.

"Yuck" the mimosa yellow that my TR6 body has (I dislike)..... needs to go bye bye!!



As far as clearance concerns with oil pan and exhaust pipe....oil pan is 1/2" below frame...exhaust pipe is maybe at lowest piont 2" below frame...I'm sure it will be fine on normal road conditions. I can take this whole exhaust system apart without cutting any pipe. Also when the car is on a lift, no one will know there is an X-pipe installed, unless you look real closely into frame area.



Another pic that was closer to skid plate to show clearance.

[74ls1tr6]

I used exhaust hangers that you would find on most later model cars. The only difference here is that I put the mounting pin facing forward instead of backward. The reason for doing this....is that an exhaust will expand and contract about an 1/2'' or so from heat. My thoughts with them facing bacwards....it would cause the mounting bracket to bind and possilbly break due to the pipe expanding lenghtwise.



Had to shave down a couple of cooling fins on the diff cover to alow clearance for the driver side muffler. I may need to do one more for movment of the muffler. The exit side of the muffler is real close to the swaybar to keep ground clearance. There wasn't any room to spare but the 1/2' expansion for heat.



The mounting pin facing forward. Installed the rubber mounting bracket right up to the rear diff bolt pin.



The same ss wrap clamp before muffler for easy service.

[74ls1tr6]

I will be using these USA made 2 1/2" tail pipes. Probably will mold into rear of TR6 body so they don't hang out like some TR6's I've seen before...... and keep them up close to body. Will need to wait until body is mounted to finish exhaust.



Kind of looks like Corvette style exhaust setup.

[dwtr6v8]

Nice job on the pipes!

I'm bringing my TR6 V8 out to your place for a little "exhausting work"!

So when you see that Blue TR6 in your drive way, don't wake the driver until your ready to weld.

Keep Rock-n! Keep posting!

[74ls1tr6]

Don,

:-) ....If you are willing to drive from east coast to west coast with the gas prices the way they are,...I will do the "exhausting work" for free and just come on in, have an extra room for ya!  :-)

[Martin]

Hi Calvin,

Still watching!  Lookin' good!  I'm at work planning mine.  Plenty of work to do just getting the garage in order for such a thing.  

Exhaust certianly looks super.  

On those backing plates (in the chassis legs) for the trailing arm mounts, are you leaving them free as sort of a giant washer or are you going to weld them?  Any thoughts on the advantages of either?  I know on the front suspension lower A-arm brackets, the aftermarket backing plates are left free and not welded.  

Good luck!

[74ls1tr6]

Martin,

Very good question? I did what others have done here at the trailing arm area ( Joe's bowtie6 did this ). Now that you have asked the question about it made me think more about it. I may make another 3" square plate (4 of them) to install where the bolts come through... since I have extra thread there. Thinking again here... I will weld in the long plate and used the 3" plates as a large washer. In the frame box, the factory put bracing inside so that the frame won't crush when tighening the bolts. I have used all grade 8 bolts (fine thread) for the whole car so far.

I thought I was done on the frame! OK Martin you have great thoughts and questions, keep them coming, and incorporate your thoughts into your TR6 and start posting your progress. I can't wait to see :-)

AS for the front A-arm lower mount box, I did make plates for the mount area and made vertical plate that ran inside the box and all the way down to the bottom of the frame box. I welded this all in, so end results was double thickness for the whole box. Plus ran more weld on the outside of the box. "Made this strong" because I have broken this area with a previous car.

Calvin
Martin Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Hi Calvin,
>
> Still watching!  Lookin' good!  I'm at work
> planning mine.  Plenty of work to do just getting
> the garage in order for such a thing.  
>
> Exhaust certianly looks super.  
>
> On those backing plates (in the chassis legs) for
> the trailing arm mounts, are you leaving them free
> as sort of a giant washer or are you going to weld
> them?  Any thoughts on the advantages of either?
> I know on the front suspension lower A-arm
> brackets, the aftermarket backing plates are left
> free and not welded.  
>
> Good luck!

[dwtr6v8]

Rats!

My electric fuel pump went out yesterday on a great spring day drive. ( near the end of the run, so not so bad, I did get home)

Just another little project.

Thanks for the offer of the room and drive way parking! I might take you up on the offer when I retire, cause I would take the long way there!

You do great work! (I AGREE WITH YOU ON THE YELLOW COLOR)

[74ls1tr6]

Don,

I hope you have had time to get your fuel pump replaced and you can get some driving time in for me.

I guess the weather is getting better there for you!

Heck I'll take that yellow on your avatar...I just can't seem to get a grasp on the Mimosa yellow.....maybe its just the word "Mimosa"that I can't handle.

I've been working on the driver side inner fender well. Cut out the fender to match the other fender (for the carb clearance).
The driver side needs the clerance for the alternator. I welding in the hand bent piece of sheet metal (weld & grind weld & grind).
In the end results It will look like the factory did it I hope.

I will post some pics soon!

[dwtr6v8]

Already fixed and , just for you, I did a little spirited driving taking on a Camero Z28!

I had a Holley fuel pump with a pressure regulator, but she was dropping pressure at odd times. (anytime would be odd, DAH)
Not up for another $164 hit, I found a better option.(wisdom from "been there, done that")

Our local Club here, on the MG side,(MGA 302 T5) guided me towards a very quiet, low cost, low profile electric fuel pump that most Auto Parts House carry. No special order, No Summitt Racing, No Jeggs, just over the counter.

It's a Universal electric fuel pump, but I did have to give the local store a make and model as they can't locate the bathroom without a computer, make and model info. So, 1984 Ford Mustang, V8, with Carbs. ("WOW, I did not know that Mustangs came with carbs?") I'm showing my age a little.

This little baby is sweet, easy to mount, quiet (I here it when she is switched on, but after pressure is up, you never hear her) and easy on the back pocket.

If I ever switch back to EFI, I'll need to change her out, but for now the wind is in may face and the traffic is looking at my back side!

[MGBV8]

Do you have any specs on that Mustang fuel pump?  My Carter pump is driving me nuts with the noise.

[dwtr6v8]

I love this baby! Very quiet!

The Holley would sometimes rattle the mounting plate. I had it located in the same position as the stock electric pumps for the fuel injected TR's.

I'm running a pres. regulator and the guage is reading 5.0 psi


It's rated at 12v, 3.8 to 5.7 psi, 16.8 gal/hr

Here is a link to different resources; my MGA buddy sent me this link to another passionate British car owner.

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/fuel/fp201.htm

[MGBV8]

Thanks, Don!

I met Barney Gaylord (The MGA Guru) at our MG V8 meet in Champagne, IL in 1999. He has a ton of great info on  his website.

[74ls1tr6]

Don,   Well I guess with the wind in your face and the Z28 looking at your back side is a good thing :-) (The adrenalin rush is on again).

Nice little fuel pump and small enough to put in the glove box "Nice".

I'm going to say it ,,,,,Don does have a vast amount of info and has the passion to share to a fellow car buff what he has learned in his own research ( trial and error, been there done that) along with many others on this forum. I can say this because of many e-mail exchanges with Don and Ken both.

A funny thing was, as soon as I posted for the first time in this forum.... within several days..>Ken found me through a search on the net ....he was able the get my phone number (from my business)....he called me to see if he could help in some way. Now that being said this whole forum is that way. A great place to be for the purist with the power in mind group, make it better, and have fun doing it.

OK!    driver side fender mod so the GM alternator will fit. It needs more work but it is coming along better that I thought. I have only done bondo work, this is a little different for me...an english wheel would have helped some ...so bent this by hand and welded in.



Pic taken from the front of body. I'm welding in fill from the other side then grinding down( in the engine compartment side) to get the round edges to look like the other original side.




Pic taken standing on floor boards looking into engine compartment.



The first cut to get alternator in and get an idea what to do?

The body will go on the frame soon, so that when the other areas need to be fabed in...the body stucture won't get tweaked or twisted so body panels, doors, windshield will still fit ok.

It's been in the 80's here lately, working every spare moment left in a day on this project.

A tandem Wilwood master cylinder came in the other day to help with the more brake fluid needed...need to push 10 brake pistons... instead of 2 piston and 2 wheel cylinders. Talked with the Wilwood rep, told him what I was dealing with, end results was a 1 1/8" bore master cylinder. May upgrade later on brakes(room to move a little)

[dwtr6v8]

For someone that has done only bondo work, metal must be your friend. WOW!

When I do my body work, can you move in please.

After your yellow comment, I changed my avitar to reflect my true color!

[74ls1tr6]

The alternator fits, but close on the bottom side.



The brake booster is right up against the coil pack on the valve cover. I will move the booster over about 1/4" or so for clearance(for plug wire). I believe the master cylinder will clear under the hood.



I will use the original clutch (GM from Z28) cylinder as Ken used.



Probably use the Z28 radiator, has 2 puller fans and maybe later install the AC that I was able to get with this package on the other side of radiator.

[74ls1tr6]

Need a little work here for drive shaft tunnel cover.



I picked up this LS2 400HP that was in a boat. I just needed to take a break from the project. I like to work hard but also like to play hard too.



Nissan yellow so people can see me on the water at night. 22' Jet boat on plain need only 4" of water.Can do some fishing on the feather river for salmon , stripped bass and shad.



Took the family out on the Sacramento river for a ride. This is I street bridge down town Sacramento where the capitol is close by. Just a great way to relax a little.

Wow! If my TR6 sounds like this LS2 ...I'm already a happy camper

[tr6lt1]

Dude! I have so much "Toy Envy" right now! As Napolian Dynomite would say "Luuuuucky!" Seriously the TR6 is looking good. I will see if I can keep up with you "Project Wise", because I know that LS1 is gonna Fly. I hope your paint can keep up with the body when you step on the go now peddle.....

[dwtr6v8]

Double Dude! I coming to your toy store. Something tells me that you enjoy the wind in your face!

Is that the placement of the Z28 radiator? It looks to me to be too tall and will conflict with the hood.

But who cares, I drove our TR6 to it's first show and cruise with out the hood on!

[74ls1tr6]

AH! YesToy's Frank.  ...Don you have me pegged about liking the wind in my face. If I can't get in the TR6 and feel the wind Brenda and myself have worked hard in our lifes to be blessed with the toy's that every man & wife + kids enjoys together.

So right now TR6 has been a planter box for a while...that being said No wind there, so the wind factor works well with this Honda Valkyrie with a 1535 cc engine "OH! hang on". If we can't get on the Valkyrie we will jump on the river with the jet sled or we also have a pair of 1500cc jet skis that will do 65 MPH on the water (which is scary fast on water). So yes feeling alive and living life to it's fullest(safely) with the wind in our face is one of those things we do. I figure someone has to do it.

The Toaster Honda in the back ground is what I use for the service end in my business. One day about a month ago I chased down a red TR6 (in this Toaster) that had a 350 chevy engine. It took me about a mile and a half to get up along side of him and pull him over and talk. I broke just about every law of the road to do this and the family was saying faster he's getting away. I'm working on him to post a "how it was done" soon. He let me drive it and was pretty fast I must say.

Yes, the radiator is just setting in there and I think I can modify to drop it down for hood clearance. I knew somone would see that :-) ...darn can't pass that one off.

[74ls1tr6]

Bolted the hood bonet on the TR6 today to check for clearances.

 The Wilwood master cylinder has enough clearance(1/2"), radiator is to tall (Don you were right, your eye is good, looking at a picture). I might have had enough room for the engine to be raised the 1/2" for the oil pan to be flush with the frame. I don't think that would have messed with the engine line to the differential to much.

So the end results...will not need to cut hood for any clearance issues.....some room to spare.

I will need to get another radiator, may be a Griffin aluminum crossflow 19"x 27" or? I do know I will need the hose hook up for the Ls6 intake (from intake to radiator). It would be nice if I could use the Z28 fan setup on the Griffin radiator (2 puller fans).

I will need to give the driveshaft tunnel a little more width and clearance on the front driver side and the back passenger side for the drive shaft yokes and U-joints.

Since the body is on, will tack sheet metal in for the firewall needed above throtle pedal and around transmission in the foot boxes. I may try making a transmission cover out of aluminum and try welding aluminum. I have the aluminum wire. I will ask the welding shop what kind of gas to use or if any at all.

The rest of the day I was on the river with the jet sled getting in the first 10 hours. One of the exhaust jacket 5" hose has a 1/2" slice in it where she was blowing exhaust and water out of. So will take her in for the 10 hour check up and let them repalce it. Nice to have 2 1250 gal per hour bilge pumps, one automatic and one by switch :-)...just kept driving, have 9.5 hours good enough.

[dwtr6v8]

Hey,

Before you run out for a new radiator, did you check out the space in front of the radiator mounts?

I removed my mounts dropped the radiator down in front. This places it with a slight forward slant.

The unit measure 21.5 x 22.25, but by dropping it down front it cleared the hood.

But not knowing how the Z28 radiator is set up (looks like return is top left side) your inlet on the right lower might conflict with the skin plate mount?

Sorry about the quality of the pics, old digital camera.

[74ls1tr6]

The whole radiator here shows the outlet on the right and the inlet on the left. In the engine compartment the outlet is real close to the passenger wheel well. The inlet is OK for clearance. You will notice the overflow conection just below rad cap and just below is the connection that goes to the LS6 intake. Surprising this is a 1 core radiator and aluminum with plastic tanks on the sides. I'm sure these 2 fans can move alot of air.

                                                             

Width of radiator on the top side. The width is OK if I was to lean top of rad forward (towards grill) for the outlet going to inlet of water pump (for wheel well clearance).

                                                             

Height of the radiator to cap. I measured from skid plate to hood and came up with( through the grill area with the hood closed) 19" and no more. 21" is to tall...if the cap was not there the core part of the rad is 19"
                                                             

Shows the radiator cap to high. The rad is sitting forward on the skid plate. Maybe I can take this rad to a local rad shop...ask if there is something they can do with to make this fit.

[74ls1tr6]

It doesn't look like there is any negative camber yet. I sure hope this car will settle down some after all the weight is back on the car. Dings and dents all over this body from moving it around.


I figured to have some fun with the shadow on this pic.

 I wonder if anyone can figure out what that black stuff is on this side of the firewall at the top of this photo?? "I know Dan Masters will figure it out". I will tell you what is is in a few days hoping someone figures it out and please post on this if you know?



Need to widen the tunnel cover here by the diff area.



The front by the tran needs the same.