Scott, Hydraulic lifters are zero lash. The lash is taken up inside the lifter. You are thinking of solid lifters that have the gap measured between the valve and rocker.

That's right. Ideally as the rocker shafts are bolted down the pushrods on the #1 cylinder (@TDC-compression stroke) will be compressed about 1/16" into the lifters.

Jim

Thanks guys, and yes watching videos not related to my engine is useless! I got the distributor out and see that my hold down bracket isn't compatible with this timing cover even after I cut off the tab. I got one ordered that supposed to work.

I think we used one from an 80's Buick V6? Maybe SBC?

I could probably modify my hold down bracket but I got one coming. My intake cleaned up pretty well but I'm leaning towards getting the Jet Hot ceramic coating done. Jim mentioned it here and I think it's worth it with the heat soak issues, and it looks nice!

I use Cerakote. They have a nice silver that is air dry, no-polish with their highest performance stats. You sand blast your parts and spray it with a paint gun. Try to stay upwind.

Jim

Thanks Jim, I looked at their website and looks like a good product. Jet Hot will be more expensive to be sure. Waiting on an estimate from Jet Hot. Anything to help with vapor lock issues, until fuel injection happens.

You sure about vapor lock?

I had vapor lock initially pretty bad. I've done several things to reduce it. Carb spacer, return style fuel filter at the carb, louvered the hood. I learned to give full throttle on hot restarts etc. The idea of coating the intake for me is primarily cosmetic. The aluminum gets stained easily. Currently waiting on parts for the intake and probably should install the timing cover. I removed the tab that was interfering with the distributor clamp and should have the new clamp thursday.

Doing a dry fit with the timing cover, I now realize the bolts I removed and bagged and labeled are a mix of different bolts and not necessarily the correct bolts. I had ordered a ARP kit a while back that turns out isn't 215 specific, so it's not what I need. Some of them work and some don't. The water pump bolts aren't correct and the ones I took out are crap. So, I had to order another 215 specific kit to move forward. I'm not going through all this to use crap hardware. I'm using stainless for this area. Definitely using anti seize and thread sealant.

Scott, we used 215 specific stainless bolts.

That's what I ordered Jim after realizing some of my removed hardware is crap. The head bolts were OK, but new stainless bolts are worth the $$. I'm using the leftover ARP bolts anywhere it work's which is fine. I'm going through the MSD distributor and replacing some of its parts with new. It worked fine, but seeing that corrosion was  surprising. Apparently that's a thing??

Changed my mind and sent the distributor to MSD for servicing. I watched a few videos of DYI repairs and when adding the cost to replace the parts that are corroded and getting the rusty reluctor off; I just decided to let a pro go thru it. One of the videos a guy said they only charged $110 to do his and mine may be more but the parts cost at least that much. Peace of mind thing I guess.

Getting ready to install the timing cover and water pump. The Stainless bolt kit supplier emphasizes the importance of the anti-seize (of course) and lowered torque settings. Do you guys torque down by a certain lower percentage (25%-30%). Looks like the ARP bolts can go tighter than the stainless. The bolt kit looks nice. Labelled really well.

I use.15 ftlbs. Sealer on the 4 that go by the upper water passages. Anti-seize on the others. Gray RTV on both sides of the gaskets.

 You're talking about the 4 long bolts right? The old ones came out really oxidized (stainless). I've got Red, Black and Brown RTV. Getting the UltraGrey Permatex tomorrow. I don't want this  stuff to leak, and I know this area is problematic.

Scott, the ones above and below the two main water passages.

I tighten according to the quality of the stainless bolts I use. I find that although there are some very cheap stainless available that comes in around grade 3 or so most of the better hardware store bolts are around grade 5 and are pretty much interchangeable with the factory bolts used on the cover and the accessories. Always use anti-seize on them. Be particular about getting a proper bead of sealant and in the right place. Try not to go overboard on it though. I realize it's something of a delicate balance on the timing cover particularly and sometimes a thinner layer on both parts is better than a thicker layer on just one. Same goes with the gasket if you use it. The main job of that is to make it easier to get good even contact.

Jim

I'm going to be careful to get enough to do the job without having giant blobs squeezed out on the inside.

We got the timing cover and water pump installed today. Of course there was 1 long bolt that was not long enough. The timing cover and  water pump are slightly different than what came off. So one of the bolts didn't reach its home. So, after looking at the 4 long bolts that came out, there is one that is longer than the other 3. So I thought i was golden. I cleaned it up and put the sealant on it and went to tighten it; it only went about a 1/4 inch into the threads and stripped the female threads. So, I measured the depth of the hole and it's 5 1/2" deep. The longer bolt I took out is 5". The ones in the bolt kit are 4 1/2". None of the bolts in the ARP kit are even close to long enough. The water pump is obviously different than stock and I spent some time measuring the hole's depth before starting the install. I missed the 1" difference in that one bolt.
Going to the hardware store tomorrow, hoping they have a 5/16" 5 1/2" stainless bolt. I'm guessing not likely.

You may have to get a 6" and cut 1/2" off.

You're probably right. I'm hoping the 1/8" of stripped female thread doesn't come back to bite me.

Thread the 6" bolt in as far as it will go and measure what's left. Only remove that much, minus any washers or brackets you want to add. You may have more threads in the hole than you think you do.

Jim

Naturally the local hardware stores carry nothing in 5/16" stainless longer than 5 inches. Amazon has em ; $15 for one! But its 5 1/2 " so no shortening needed. Waiting on the intake manifold and distributor to get done, I guess I should clean up the oil pan and maybe paint it. Still need to order the clutch kit and decide if the flywheel needs turning.

Scott, make sure the oil pan flange is flat.