I have a RV8 hood which I'd hoped would give me more carb clearance but I think I can work with it; may have to use a manifold with a little less rise but I do have a question, I thought they were built over a metal frame but its actually fiberglass too.  I have a set of struts but don't think it's strong enough.  Has anyone tried nut-certs on glass or strengthening the hood to use struts.  I have fiberglass capabilities to encapsulate metal strips but thought I'd get recommendations before I do anything to it.

Paul

Paul, I think Rick has special struts for fiberglass or aluminum hoods. I thought Dave put steel inserts in for hinges and struts on his street version.

I got mine from Brian but he has them made and drop shipped by someone else  I'll check with Rick, thanks.


Paul

Having done more fiberglass work than I care to admit, I was pretty impressed with the hood and the workmanship.  Much better than I could have done!


Paul

Have a look at this page: http://www.preformresources.com/MGB-Body-Parts.htm

It includes a photo showing where steel reinforcements are hidden inside your fiberglass hood.

Thanks Curtis, the pictures help.


Paul

Paul, all the metals in the hood are 16 ga. you should have no problem using self tappers to install struts. Ricks struts are made to work with ally and FRP hoods although I believe our hoods are are plenty stiff  In beam and they are still light .
Dave

Thanks Dave, so my hood, from you, and my struts from Bill, should work Ok then?


Paul

Paul, I thought this site sounded familiar. Lets see, we go back to Jr. High, a 50 Olds torpedo body sedan and racing a 58 Pontiac in IHRA at Green Valley in the mid 60's. NOW...sporty cars!!! NO, you can not be buried next to me...but it is a Veterans Cemetery so maybe in the same area!?

Hey CJ, it's a thought but I've decided to live forever so my kids won't get the GT.  I don't miss the Pontiac that much but I'd really like to have that 50 Olds back.  Dave, the new hood (bonnet) looks so good I don't want to paint it, you really do good work.  I ordered a set of struts for a fiberglass hood from Rick and tried to give the struts I have to CJ but he wants to stay original so I'll probably put then on the classified forum.  I've had a set of Volvo rear door struts on the hatch for years and love them way better than my big giant rusted up springs.


Paul

Dave, I liked the look of Calvin's GT a lot and I'm seriously considering your air dam and rear valance.  Can they be shipped UPS/FEDEX or if truck freight can they be boxed together to save shipping costs?


Paul

Hi Paul,

Dave was able to ship ups I believe and in the same box, the air dam and the rear valance to me. ;-)

Thanks Calvin, Brenda's GT looks great, keep the pictures coming.

Can't remember if you are doing flares, Paul.  That really nice air dam/front valance/spoiler blends with the flared front fenders. I was trying to talk Dave into doing one for stock fendered MGs, as well.

Thanks Carl, I could be wrong, I certainly have been before, but I thought Dave had two air dams on his site one for flares and one #MGB-103 for metal bumper cars that looks like it works without flared fenders, but I'll check with Dave before I order anything.



Paul

Carl,

I thought this air dam was for stock front end. I just have the Nissan Stanza flares duct taped on there + the air dam? The air dam stops right at the side of the stock fender? What do you think? The bumper can still go on without the flare. That hood is Dave's also.

No, you are both correct.  That one IS for stock body.  I really like the other style he brought to Omaha, but it is currently for the Sebring kit only.

I like the one that you have, as well, Calvin. I may get it & add the brake cooling ducts.

You guys, I'm working on a new front valance, one like Carl suggested  for stock body cars , it has a semi flush fit with the fenders and mounts from the rear of the face except for the two center screws which center it (can't get to em from behind) there is metal buried in the back wall so you can use #10 self tappers to secure it using the the stock valance mounts as thru holes.
well this has turned into a major league headache for me as I don't have a reliable car to check everything on but Don Munoz has let me use his car  for checking fitment (Don has a pristine 67 ) so that helps BUT has pointed out changes I have to make so I'm not positive yet on an introduction. Well I've enclosed some pics that will give you an idea what it looks like.
Meanwhile just e-mail me and I will keep you posted  preres@sbcglobal.net
Dave

Dave looks good, and that one can go bumperless. I thought about modifying the one like on Brenda's car with the classic style Sebring ducts.

Dave, I would love to have your skills.
Everything I've seen is just art.

I have 205R50/15's on VTO classic 8 wheels so I don't have a fitment issue but I like the look of the Nissan flares.  I didn't plan on copping the front of Brenda's GT Calvin, but you make it look so darn good and I'm really impressed with Dave's products.  How about nut-certs for the blind holes, you can't get to Dave?  You could include them with the kit and all you need to install them is a nut and bolt.



Paul

I second what Fred said.  I hand laid 8 complete T-Bucket cars (bodies, opening doors, pickup beds, and radiator shells) so I know how finicky and incredibly messy fiberglass can be.  


Paul

Um Dave, I do like the bumper less air dam look that you have on Don's car in the photo. Can we trade?

I'm going bumper-less too, both ends.


Paul