Aluminum front hubs for MGB?

[Moderator]

I'm wrapping up a rear axle / suspension project and thinking about what might come next. How about replacing heavy iron front hubs with lightweight aluminum ones? I think several people may have made them over the years, but they seem to be completely unavailable now.  In another thread I wrote about a business called SendCutSend. Just a couple weeks ago SendCutSend expanded into CNC milling, and they announced lathe services are coming next. I'm thinking of giving that a try.

My motivation is weight reduction. Stock cast iron MGB hubs are heavy.



5 pounds 14.7 ounces (including lugs and bearing cups).



Stock lugs were pressed-in. For aluminum hubs, would it be better to thread in wheel bolts instead?



Stock brake rotors were attached with four bolts. Nuts/washers recessed into pockets in the hub casting.



Aluminum adapter hats could be eliminated. Should I attach Wilwood rotors to my new hub directly?

If you were creating your own billet 6061-T6 hubs, what features would you include?

[Moderator]

It occurred to me that someone might misunderstood what I said about thread-in wheel bolts. I was thinking of bolts that thread through the hub from the back, but are attached to your wheels with regular lug nuts. That's what Strange Engineering does with their rather inspirational design:

https://www.strangeengineering.net/wp-content/uploads/2024/12/BALL-HUB-1.jpg
https://www.strangeengineering.net/wp-content/uploads/2024/12/B4700-HAT-DETAIL-1.jpg
(but sadly, their's won't fit my car)

[Scott Costanzo]

Curtis, very interesting! This question might be be a bit premature, but would you duplicate the dimensions of the original hubs or change them in some way? I'll for sure be following this!

[BlownMGB-V8]

I used a slip-on hat, as I prefer to be able to swap brake rotors without removing the bearings. Pretty sure I used press-in studs rather than screw-in SHCS but can't say for sure. I doubt the alloy and heat treatment are the same. SHCS are probably more brittle but with higher ultimate strength. Back spacing is important, especially if setting up aftermarket calipers. Speedway sells some very nice price conscious and light weight rotors. I haven't found a better source for those. Sometimes you can find the aluminum hats on sale for around $50 each. May not perfectly match your spec though.

Jim

[Moderator]

Great feedback, gentlemen.

To Scott's question: I don't have any particular intent to shift wheels outboard or inboard. A small shift might be fine, but moving outboard as much as 1/2" would likely risk fowling the fenders and would noticeably increase steering effort (due to increased scrub radius). My tire sidewalls already kiss my antisway bars during full-lock parking lot maneuvers.

Good points about being to service rotors w/o bearing removal, Jim. I hadn't thought of that!

I have a bunch more thinking to do. More feedback would be welcome!