Did a compression test on my stroked Olds 215, not good. #4 cylinder at 50 lbs.

[Gswest236]

With the balancers keyway at 12 o'clock which puts the timing groove at 12 o'clock the white paint mark is at 9 o'clock. I was reading up on the balancer install techniques and saw that these things can spin and create issues with timing and vibration. Checking that the keyway is in line with the timing mark is one way to determine if it has spun. It lines up but that white mark is way off.

[mgb260]

Best way is to find top dead center with #1's valves both closed and see what lines up. If it doesn't line up, go around again. Is the white mark about 12-16 degrees past the 20 degree mark on the indicator? That would be the Total timing advance including centrifugal in the distributor. I always time that way at 3500 RPM and initial or static timing is usually 14-17 degrees, where ever it lands. Keyway does not always line up with mark. I've always sent my old damper to Damper Dudes.

[Gswest236]

I haven't got that far Jim. Damper Dudes reconditions these things? I see they sell them. I think this ones fine but what do I know! I'm going to install it and get it to TDC and see where the marks line up. Go from there. Thanks

[mgb260]

They used to. You are probably fine. A lot of time the rubber is cracked or you would have visible separation or misalignment. Another trick is to line up the initial timing at 12 degrees advance instead of zero, closer to where it will run at first start up. Mark the cap at #1 and inside the distributor where the rotor will point at #1.

[Gswest236]

OK, thanks! I'll be gone for a few days and will be working on it when I get back.

[BlownMGB-V8]

An accurate zero @ TDC is usually done before the heads go on using a piston stop and a degree wheel but can be done afterwards in several ways, mostly involving the spark plug hole. Keep in mind it sits at an angle to the piston so it's a more delicate process.

You can buy or make either a piston stop or a dial indicator mount that screws in there, then with a degree wheel or marks on the damper, mark the same point on both sides of zero, which will then be the mid-point.

Jim

[MGBV8]

Another trick is to line up the initial timing at 12 degrees advance instead of zero, closer to where it will run at first start up. Mark the cap at #1 and inside the distributor where the rotor will point at #1.

Exactly the way I did it when I recently replaced my intake gasket. Found compression stroke with my finger in the spark plug hole while I rocked the car (in 5th) with my legs. Lined up the mark at 12 degrees & dropped in the distributor.  Fired right up.  Checked timing with timing light.  Still 12 degrees.  Tightened down the distributor & drove it 457 miles to the British V8 meet in Canfield, OH.

[Gswest236]

Thanks guys. I'm back, so tomorrow I'll get the balancer on and get to TPC compression. I'll put it at 12 degrees and go from there. I still have to prime the oil pump. I changed my mind on the headers and am getting them ceramic coated by Jet Hot. In for a penny in for a pound,, great.   

[Gswest236]

Naturally when I went to install the harmonic balancer I found out the tool I got had the wrong bolt size. It looks to be 5/8' and my Amazon tool is smaller. Was supposed to work on most SBC motors, most but obviously not all. I ordered another kit with multiple bolt size options including 5/8'-18 threads. AI says there are Metric bolts as well in some of these applications.

[mgb260]

Scott, I've had to use a puller to remove, but never a tool to install. Slip on the keyway and tap on with rubber hammer or wood block. Then you tighten the bolt to I think 140-150 ft lbs, you will have to wedge a screwdriver in the flywheel teeth to hold.

[Gswest236]

OK, thanks Jim! I used my puller to get it off. There are those out there that warn against damaging the crank thrust bearings. I haven't tapped it with my soft hammer to see how easy it would go on. But I'm being extra careful doing some of this stuff for the first time.

[mgb260]

Jon's damper pushed on by hand.

[Gswest236]

You're right, it slid on with very little effort and a plastic mallet. Thanks!

[Gswest236]

I got the balancer on and found TDC compression and it lines up with the original mark. The other mark is 45 degrees before the actual mark. I blacked out the that ones paint and got a white marker on the correct line. I temporarily installed the distributor with it at TDC, but I'll remove it and when I go to put it in permanently I'll set it at 12 degrees advanced and put it back in. Should I wait until I'm ready to do a start up to prime the oil pump or can I do it now?

[mgb260]

You can prime it now. Use a corded drill, and it may take awhile to prime. You will have to hook up the gauge or plug the line. If the line will reach, you could put in the oil fill hole in a valve cover.

[Gswest236]

I was wondering how to keep the oil from shooting across the room from that oil line port. I have to see if I can get the motor close enough to connect the pressure gauge line.

[BlownMGB-V8]

You can use a tire pressure gage if you have the right fittings. Some gages have a screw off end.

Jim

[Gswest236]

I got a 1/4" flare fitting cap to cover the oil line port on the filter housing. Then went about priming the oil pump. It took awhile to be sure. But the oil eventually made it up to all 16 rocker arms. The drill was very warm! At that point we got it back to TDC compression and put the mark at 12 degrees advanced. Put the distributor in with the rotor pointing at #1 cylinder. At this point I'm looking at this aftermarket distributor hold down clamp (the original will not work with this aftermarket timing cover) and it doesn't seem right. I haven't tightened it down completely but it spins after a few turns with the wrench which makes me think it's not good. Is there a better piece that works with these metric covers?

[mgb260]

Nice, you don't have a vacuum advance can to worry about. We used an aftermarket SBC distributor clamp that looked just like yours, only chrome. I think we used a nut, one size too big as a washer to level it and a longer bolt. The Metric V6 cover must have used one with a step in it.

[Gswest236]

I put some washers in to level it some and maybe that's all that's needed. But, the old one can be modified to work which is what I'm going to do. The pics show I have to open up the old one's bolt hole and trim off the back some.

[Gswest236]

My idea of modifying the old dizzy hold down clamp turned into a several hour boondoggle. I know nothing about metallurgy but this thing is hard. 4 broken bits, 3 bandaids and it still won't bolt on. I forgot I have a hydraulic press and was trying to bend it flatter with a vise, then a BFH; no flatter than when I started. So, I tried the press to flatten it out, big mistake. Apparently all the heat cycles hardened it to the point that it was brittle. You machinist out there probably would have warned me. Oh well,  I finally put the  aluminum aftermarket one back on with some washers underneath to make it work and it seems to hold it firm.

[Gswest236]

We got the Alternator brackets figured out after looking thru some photos. Of course it wasn't without a catch. My photos of the alternator bracket configuration was lacking. Turns out the original timing cover had bolt holes that the new one doesn't have. The main alternator bracket was custom made (I think) with these holes in mind. The new timing cover doesn't have that one hole that captures one of the 2 lower bolts of the bracket. I can make a bracket to run from that right side lower bolt hole to a bolt on the water pump that will add strength to the bracket.  I might have to source a slightly longer water pump bolt. I also need a longer bolt and a spacer  to make the alternator adjustment bracket line up.

[Gswest236]

We got some hardware to install the Alternator brackets. I think we're good: the belt is new and the tension is good. Had to use some large SS nuts for the spacer ( a more elegant spacer will be sourced eventually). I think next I'm getting the carb cleaned up and at least partially rebuilt. It worked fine before but sitting for over a year with crappy fuel in it may have caused an issue.