TIG Rods For Welding Jag Drive Shafts?

Started by soi6, January 20, 2021, 08:15:29 AM

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roverman

.004" press is all relative.  Thin tubing in that diameter has "stretch".  Just did one for my 1 T. diesel truck. Heavier wall and .003-.004" press.  Likely I could have drove around the block, un-welded. I'm NOT suggesting. I suspect IF you got index off by 1/16", not likely to feel it.   More important, it is straight.  Art.

soi6

Im trying to add a pic.......question I need to change my stud PCD,  I would like to keep the same wheel studs all round, do you think 4 stud's will cope on a mgbgt with 400 bhp?


MGBV8

"do you think 4 stud's will cope on a mgbgt with 400 bhp?"

Yes, I do.

There are many, many heavy hitter Hondas & Miatas still running 4 lug wheels and doing it at the dragstrip & on road courses.
Carl

soi6

Ive drilled the hubs to MGB PCD 4 stud, as Id rather have the same all round. Ill be mounting the axle in the car soon.Thanks for all the help!

Jameson4170

On the off chance that you need to utilize TIG you presumably ought to do a hefty preheat and utilize a great deal of filler bar. Yet, with that much warmth in a little zone steps should be taken to dodge warpage, for example, by rotating sides. The weighty preheat will likewise help significantly paying little mind to the technique you use.

Jameson4170

It relies upon what material the "cast" drive shaft closes are made of. Cast iron or cast steel. I particularly question they are solid metal so I will answer dependent on them being projected steel.

The welding relies upon the synthetic piece of the projecting, as it has a critical obligation you can anticipate that it should contain raised chrome and manganese levels for strength, yet with this would come expanded degrees of carbon and potential for hardness.

To beat higher carbon content I would recommend a high preheat of the projecting (400c in addition to) before welding and keep up this warmth during welding in the event that you can. At that point envelop by high temp protection straight in the wake of welding (exhaust wrap on the off chance that you have it) to control the cooling rate.

I would actually utilize a 1% nickel wire to give additional strength yet additionally to add some extra alloying component to the cast/weld pool zone.

A decent marker to check for expanded carbon and hardness is to perceive how a tack weld acts. Do a respectable tack weld on the material (when cold) that weakens both parent materials (cast and CDS) and afterward attempt and move it or adjust it until it breaks. At that point check the area of the crack ( mid weld/on the cast as we approve of the CDS) in the event that it breaks simple and shows a dim fine grain you have high carbon. On the off chance that flexes and yeilds and shows a roughish grain, it may not be high carbon as it showed pliable crack properties.

Whatever you have, pre and post warmth is vital.

Expectation this makes a difference.

Jim Stabe


soi6

Jim Blackwood, Im monting the axle to the car,I see this showing the relationship between the diff & the body, what ride hight is the car when the diff is mounted using the cross bar to the spring hangers? thanks
mg axle.jpg

BlownMGB-V8

Depends on how you build it Tim, it can be basically whatever you want. What you need to watch closely is the clearance between the uprights and the MG frame members. That will determine minimum possible ride height as well as suspension travel. Inner fender/tire clearance runs a close second.

Jim

soi6

Im going to add box section above the frame sections then remove as required to get me the full clearance I need, what ride height did that give you? thanks

BlownMGB-V8

Depends on tire size and suspension travel on the compression side, which depends on spring rate and coil-over mounting angle. Don't get your upper mount too close to the bodywork. Also depends on what part comes closest to the body. For reference, use the diameter of your stock axle height of the bump stop, and of the bump stop pad on the axle. Shouldn't be too hard to do better than that.

Jim

soi6

Yeah ok, now Im working out ride hights its rather high at the front, I have 15" wjheels & a chrome bumper front clip, I'll have to modify the  the stub axle's to get the front down,  at the moment its just too high.

soi6

Ive cut a little from the top of the alloy hub & along with some of the steel frame it now has loads of clearance, the box section is in fact two sections, so the lower section only removed does the job.
jag hub.jpg