Did a compression test on my stroked Olds 215, not good. #4 cylinder at 50 lbs.

[Gswest236]

With the balancers keyway at 12 o'clock which puts the timing groove at 12 o'clock the white paint mark is at 9 o'clock. I was reading up on the balancer install techniques and saw that these things can spin and create issues with timing and vibration. Checking that the keyway is in line with the timing mark is one way to determine if it has spun. It lines up but that white mark is way off.

[mgb260]

Best way is to find top dead center with #1's valves both closed and see what lines up. If it doesn't line up, go around again. Is the white mark about 12-16 degrees past the 20 degree mark on the indicator? That would be the Total timing advance including centrifugal in the distributor. I always time that way at 3500 RPM and initial or static timing is usually 14-17 degrees, where ever it lands. Keyway does not always line up with mark. I've always sent my old damper to Damper Dudes.

[Gswest236]

I haven't got that far Jim. Damper Dudes reconditions these things? I see they sell them. I think this ones fine but what do I know! I'm going to install it and get it to TDC and see where the marks line up. Go from there. Thanks

[mgb260]

They used to. You are probably fine. A lot of time the rubber is cracked or you would have visible separation or misalignment. Another trick is to line up the initial timing at 12 degrees advance instead of zero, closer to where it will run at first start up. Mark the cap at #1 and inside the distributor where the rotor will point at #1.

[Gswest236]

OK, thanks! I'll be gone for a few days and will be working on it when I get back.

[BlownMGB-V8]

An accurate zero @ TDC is usually done before the heads go on using a piston stop and a degree wheel but can be done afterwards in several ways, mostly involving the spark plug hole. Keep in mind it sits at an angle to the piston so it's a more delicate process.

You can buy or make either a piston stop or a dial indicator mount that screws in there, then with a degree wheel or marks on the damper, mark the same point on both sides of zero, which will then be the mid-point.

Jim

[MGBV8]

Another trick is to line up the initial timing at 12 degrees advance instead of zero, closer to where it will run at first start up. Mark the cap at #1 and inside the distributor where the rotor will point at #1.

Exactly the way I did it when I recently replaced my intake gasket. Found compression stroke with my finger in the spark plug hole while I rocked the car (in 5th) with my legs. Lined up the mark at 12 degrees & dropped in the distributor.  Fired right up.  Checked timing with timing light.  Still 12 degrees.  Tightened down the distributor & drove it 457 miles to the British V8 meet in Canfield, OH.

[Gswest236]

Thanks guys. I'm back, so tomorrow I'll get the balancer on and get to TPC compression. I'll put it at 12 degrees and go from there. I still have to prime the oil pump. I changed my mind on the headers and am getting them ceramic coated by Jet Hot. In for a penny in for a pound,, great.   

[Gswest236]

Naturally when I went to install the harmonic balancer I found out the tool I got had the wrong bolt size. It looks to be 5/8' and my Amazon tool is smaller. Was supposed to work on most SBC motors, most but obviously not all. I ordered another kit with multiple bolt size options including 5/8'-18 threads. AI says there are Metric bolts as well in some of these applications.

[mgb260]

Scott, I've had to use a puller to remove, but never a tool to install. Slip on the keyway and tap on with rubber hammer or wood block. Then you tighten the bolt to I think 140-150 ft lbs, you will have to wedge a screwdriver in the flywheel teeth to hold.

[Gswest236]

OK, thanks Jim! I used my puller to get it off. There are those out there that warn against damaging the crank thrust bearings. I haven't tapped it with my soft hammer to see how easy it would go on. But I'm being extra careful doing some of this stuff for the first time.

[mgb260]

Jon's damper pushed on by hand.

[Gswest236]

You're right, it slid on with very little effort and a plastic mallet. Thanks!

[Gswest236]

I got the balancer on and found TDC compression and it lines up with the original mark. The other mark is 45 degrees before the actual mark. I blacked out the that ones paint and got a white marker on the correct line. I temporarily installed the distributor with it at TDC, but I'll remove it and when I go to put it in permanently I'll set it at 12 degrees advanced and put it back in. Should I wait until I'm ready to do a start up to prime the oil pump or can I do it now?

[mgb260]

You can prime it now. Use a corded drill, and it may take awhile to prime. You will have to hook up the gauge or plug the line. If the line will reach, you could put in the oil fill hole in a valve cover.

[Gswest236]

I was wondering how to keep the oil from shooting across the room from that oil line port. I have to see if I can get the motor close enough to connect the pressure gauge line.

[BlownMGB-V8]

You can use a tire pressure gage if you have the right fittings. Some gages have a screw off end.

Jim