Did a compression test on my stroked Olds 215, not good. #4 cylinder at 50 lbs.

[Gswest236]

Thanks brother, 2 weeks ago I texted them that I was picking it up today . This morning they texted back that  it was getting line honed today and would be ready tomorrow. I figured something happened or yeah something got lost. But geez, way too long. My camshaft shop lost my cam after they reground it. But they found it after a few days? Stuff happens! A lot!
Thank!

[MGBV8]

Sounds like they found some motivation when they saw they were going to lose a customer.

[Gswest236]

Supposedly it's getting honed and then it'll be done. Fingers crossed!
Update, its getting finished today (Wed)

[Gswest236]

We got the block back today and it looks great, I'll get some pics up soon. Of course he also gave some paperwork with clearances and specs which I'll be going over. He put in Timecerts everywhere he thought was needed. Of course Ive got a huge learning curve here, massive! So, first issue for me is he found the mangled remains of some type of seal, spacer? I have no idea. It fell out after the dip tank I think. He felt you guys here would know what it is and where to get one, assuming I need it. It's round and has a dowel and looks like there was another dowel to secure it. Anybody recognize this? Is it a seal?

[Gswest236]

OK, i see the rear main seal area has 2 dowel holes so this must be the remains of the half of the seal.
Is it possible it got mangled this bad by the crankshaft or did it get damaged maybe removing it. He would have told me if that was it. Pretty sure he said it fell out after the dip tank which means it was in there mangled and not sealing squat. It did have a R main seal leak. Anybody seen one do that?

[mgb260]

Scott, Is the mangled part like a plastic or hard rubber? Stock 215 used a rope seal and small pins stop it from turning. When using the rubber seal they are pulled and RTV fills the holes.

[mgb260]

Scott, If it is metal, it could be part of the D&D rear seal adapter:

[Gswest236]

Its metal and looking at the rear main area the bottom obviously is missing that piece. So, it's been 6 months since I saw this motor and I cant remember if the crank was turned down to work in the 215 (rod journals were) but the rear output ?? So, do I order 300 seals or 215? I have the seal from TA, but that DD part is what I need. And then, why was it mangled? I haven't unwrapped the block so the pic is crap, but you can see there's a seal retainer thing not there on the bottom. I know the 300 crank involved mods to the crank and I guess the block?? I'm a one-legged dude in a ass kicking contest at this point.

[Gswest236]

Great! That's it. Looked it up on D+Ds website. Thanks! Will order it tomorrow. Still wonder why it was mangled?
Thanks

[Gswest236]

This is the mangled part.

[mgb260]

Scott, your crank is a 300 crank that the mains were turned down to fit the 215 block. The 300 crank sticks out in the rear about .5". That seal adapter makes up the difference. It uses a 300 seal, which comes with the adapter.

[Gswest236]

Thanks! Ordering the D+D Rear main seal adaptor kit. It will be interesting to compare that kit to the mangled pieces i have.

[mgb260]

Scott, I have a theory on the mangled spacer. Maybe the main caps were off the block when in the cleaning tank? Then it could have slid off and got mangled. Maybe even the cap was damaged and replaced and that was why it was line honed?

[BlownMGB-V8]

I've never actually seen one of those. But then again I've never put a 300 crank in a 215.

Jim

[Gswest236]

D+D guy says he "thinks" they have the kit, but was not positive so I'm waiting on a call back. Over $200 he said. I have the seals from TA but it doesn't look like they have a spacer kit though.

[Gswest236]

D+D didnt call back, so I'll call them again tomorrow. It looks like the upper spacer is intact and all I need is the bottom part. D+D guy said they dont sell the parts individually. So, I hope they can find the parts. Don't know where to look for an alternative.

[mgb260]

I think the top and bottom pieces are the same. Try the top piece on the bottom and see. I wonder if a machine shop could duplicate it? Probably cost more than D&D. As far as I know they are the only ones that sell that seal adapter.

[MGBV8]

I think the top and bottom pieces are the same. Try the top piece on the bottom and see. I wonder if a machine shop could duplicate it? Probably cost more than D&D. As far as I know they are the only ones that sell that seal adapter.

Not so sure Mark can make those if he does not have them in stock.  Probably hasn't had much demand for them in quite some time.

[Gswest236]

I'll try that Jim, I have to get the motor back on the engine stand and get some pics. The oil galley blowout repair looks good and the cylinders look great. I'm thinking the seal spacer could not have been damaged while the engine was rotating or else the crank shaft would show evidence right?

[Gswest236]

When I talked to Mark at D+D, I told him I just needed that bottom piece. He was quick to say they don't sell it by the piece, only as a kit. But I'll ask him tomorrow if the pieces are identical and maybe he has a tip on how to move forward.
Thanks

[MGBV8]

D&D has always been a specialty business with niche prices. Sure miss Mark's dad, Dan.

[Gswest236]

Mark (D+D) called back and confirmed they have the rear main seal adaptor kit. We're now good to go! Should see it in a week or so.

[Gswest236]

Got the rear main kit from D+D. Looks great, Looks like I have to re-drill the dowel holes, which is fine. Instructions included. Having the lower half of the seal adaptor destroyed in the machining process is a concern. If I knew that was a possibility, I would have removed those 2 pieces before taking the block to the shop. I think one of their machines got damaged,, it is what it is. Next step is to get started on reassembly. Might need to do some reading.

[Gswest236]

I was almost afraid to unwrap the block worrying that there could be collateral damage to the modified bearing retainer. But it looks fine. The adaptor fits perfectly. So, the next question is should I try to remove the undamaged half of the adaptor or just replace the damaged half. I'm assuming it's only held in by the RTV. Don't want to bugger up the mating surface. It's in there pretty tight; I tried with my fingers. Haven't tried with any tools.

[mgb260]

Scott, I would remove the old top piece as the new ones are a matched pair.