New V8 MGB Roadster Owner Needs Advice

[BenJB]

Hi All,

I bought a '77 MGB Roadster with a 3.5L Rover V8 last week, love the car and I've done over 1,100kms in it already. I'd like to upgrade the exhaust from block-hugger headers to the through-the-inner-fender headers. I've been reading articles on this site and others about doing this, and I wanted to ask if there's a specific brand/type I should be looking for?

The below picture shows my "I don't trust anyone" parking technique.



Thanks for your time,

Ben

[rficalora]

Ben - Welcome; you've joined a great group.  If your schedule permits, plan to come to Wytheville, VA on June 2-5 (see: http://www.britishv8.org/British-V8-Meetings.htm).  You'll get to see and learn about the options 1st hand in addition to meeting some great people.

In the meantime, what do you mean by "upgrade"?  I don't think you'll "feel" any difference in performance.  Generally, the "advantage" of the through the fenders approach is in heat extraction due to the low pressure area in the wheel wells.  But, there are plenty of 3.5L Rover powered MG's with block huggers without overheating problems which indicates if you're having overheating issues, there are likely other areas to check first.

[BlownMGB-V8]

Nothing wrong with what you have. No cracks in the headers? It's all good. No need to change just for the sake of change. Drive it and enjoy it for awhile before you start to improve it. Then you'll have a much better idea of what you really want to do.

Jim

[MG four six eight]

I have been running Clive Wheatly's stainless steel RV8 headers since 2000. After all these years they still look like they did, the day I installed them and the welds are a work of art! (you can tell a lot about the quality of a product when you look at the welds)
FWIW, mine are the older type with the individual flanges, while I see that the newer version on their website uses a one piece flange.

Bill

[MGBV8]

Have you removed them & reinstalled without issue, Bill?  I have read sometimes the individual flanges do not want to go back on as easily.  That was the case with our TR6 race car.  Very expensive stainless header that took quite a bit of effort & prying to bolt it back on the engine.

I watched Mike Moor's Buick 300 put out 306 RWHP on the dyno with his old block hugger headers for his 215.  They may not be the best for extracting all the power nor look as sexy, but they do pretty good without having to cut the fenderwell holes.

[MG four six eight]

Carl,

Yeah, I've had them on/off a couple of times over the years, mainly when I have changed engine builds/versions or doing paint work on the car. No issue with bolting them back up, that being said maybe that's why they went with the one piece flange;-)

Bill

[ex-tyke]

..... that being said maybe that's why they went with the one piece flange...

I think you'll find that the early design individual flanges were prone to primary tube/flange cracking failures and the one piece tie together design eliminates that issue..

[BenJB]

Thanks for the advice everyone, I've read it all carefully and will keep it in mind going forwards.

[jjohanski]

I will double down on the quality of Clive's headers!

[40indianss]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it can remedy a lot of future challenges