Electric windows

[BlownMGB-V8]

It's lighter than the mechanical window mechanism. Works better too.

Jim

[MGBV8]

I like the lighter part.  Maybe even swap the glass for Lexan.

[BlownMGB-V8]

If you did that you could dispense with shortening the track if you wanted. Just provide a stop. Save several lbs that way.

Jim

[BlownMGB-V8]

I got the Mazda window switch to work so that's a thing. The red and the green wires to the motor, Green and yellow to + and the other two to - and it works just fine. Minor adjustments to the track for better speed. Need to make a bezel to mount the switch in the door panel and hook up power. On to the other side.

Jim

[BlownMGB-V8]

Finished the job today and here are a few cues:
The track gets shortened 3" to 11-3/4" of travel and then you have to use every bit of it and it has to be trimmed at the bottom to match the bottom of the door and positioned right against it. No extra space. At the top it interferes just a bit with the lock rod but it works. The track has to be accurately parallel with the front window track and fixed at that angle so it doesn't move. This positions it near the rear of the door latch cutout. I cut out the section of the original regulator that engages the slide across the bottom of the glass, trimming the pieces it pivots on to make a pair of round buttons that help when installing it in the slide. A piece of 1/8 x 1/2" flat steel about 8" long tackwelded into the channel between the buttons gives enough thickness to drill and tap to attach the track slide to the window. Position of the first hole is roughly an inch from the end which in combination with the track location sets the raise limit. I mounted the track first then marked the flat, then drilled and tapped for two 6mm screws. This attachment also has to match the track to the angle of the front window channel. I trimmed the door to mount the motor. Used new rocker switches which fit in the original crank handle cutouts with trim pieces and wooden stops glued to the back to prevent rotation.

Mounting the track in a fixed position helps to prevent cocking of the glass when the window raises or lowers Any lack of precision in matching the front angle will cause the track to fight the channels but the bottom slide can compensate by moving.

The end result is quite good. Just like the windows in a brand new Mazda 3. Quick up and even quicker down. Total cost was $100. The weight of each unit is 1 pound less than stock, however the switch, wiring, and slider from the original regulator eats into that by a few ounces. Still, noticeably lighter than stock.

I think there are probably better choices available. I used the RX8 units. The Mazda 3 ones have longer cables and will allow positioning of the motors farther forwards in a dead space and this can be done without cutting the door for motor clearance so those should be better. More has to be trimmed from the track but that does not change the work required to do it. I thought the RX8 ones would work better but they did not. There may be something else that is a better fit, there might not be. Overall, definitely worth doing and the second door was much easier than the first one.

Jim

[MGBV8]

I don't read instructions.....I just look at the pictures.  What? No pics?  

[BlownMGB-V8]

Nah. I didn't have time to take them on this one. But the good news? I'm to the point where I can drive my car again. That's worth every picture I didn't take.

Jim

[Dan B]

A body shop/hot rod shop guy here was going to experiment with some Cobalt rear window motors/cables.  It looked like they could work using the existing window tracks.  I haven't talked to him lately though.

[302GT]

Will there be a problem with the later MGB doors that have the internal crash beam?

I can reach the passenger window crank while driving so I see no need for electric door windows, but the rear windows in the GT can only be reached by getting out of the car since the set head rests interfere with reaching back while seated. Making these electric is worthwhile to me. I have heard of attempts to use minivan motors for swing out side windows but never a completed installation.

[BlownMGB-V8]

I used to feel the same way about it. But, for a number of years I had trouble with the windows being stiff. Which was also leading to circles in the door cards where the knob dug in. And leaning over and pushing a button is a good bit easier and less distracting. The weight loss is just an excuse. Am I getting lazy? Nah, just getting older. I want to keep driving it after I can't work on it any more. Selfish that way.

Should be no problem with the door beams since it's all on the inside of the window.

Jim

[BlownMGB-V8]

Update to electric window thread, my windows are still working fine and I like them a lot. MX3 donors should be pretty common at the pick-n-pull.

Jim

[Dan B]

This looks promising:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Aftermarket-2-Door-Power-Window-Conversion-Kit,112892.html?utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23022589191&gclid=Cj0KCQiAsNPKBhCqARIsACm01fSVx-Ad1aCbTvn61TKSAZlRECjO4diQJt0m77k5COTCWkMlN4geU90aAuAJEALw_wcB

[rficalora]

It depends on the dimension between the rail that connects to the glass and the bottom of that track.  I don't recall the exact dimension, but there is only about 2-3" of space between the bottom of the glass and the door shell bottom panel.

[BlownMGB-V8]

It might be a usable option. Rob you are so right, there isn't any room to spare. On the Mazda conversion I used all the room that was available and it was just enough. It meant *accurately* trimming the length of the vertical lift rail, and of course the cable to match. I don't think it's likely to find one that is exactly the right length out of the box unless it's the Moss conversion and of course you won't buy that for one or two hundred.

On the plus side I didn't find shortening the unit that difficult and it does have springs which allow some fudge factor. On my conversion the trickiest part, as I think I described, was in making and positioning the brace that ties the vertical rail to the inner door panel. My design allowed a bit of lateral flex to allow for small misalignment between that rail and the window tracks. It may not be the best design, but it has worked well for 7 years now and hasn't changed so I think I can give it a good recommendation. A little fiddly perhaps but doable with common tools. That "T" shaped cutout in the rail can be done with a Dremel for instance. Welding studs or nuts in place is helpful but not the only answer.

Sorry I didn't have more detailed photos but it's not overly complicated to do and in my opinion well worth it. I have no doubt you guys can figure it out, and maybe post some better pictures.

Jim

[alanmoor]

I don't understand.  I can reach the passenger side window crank with my right hand, driver's side with my left.  What are you guys even talking about?