A nice milestone for Brenda's GT build

Started by 74ls1tr6, March 14, 2014, 01:30:08 PM

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rficalora

Great progress.  The motor looks wider than I realized... Bet working on the headers was fun.

74ls1tr6

Scott,

I did move the engine back 1 1/4" and up an 1" for it's final resting place. This will make the steering shaft a true straight shot using a u-joint in the cabin and one at the rack. The shifter is not a problem. Also giving a little more room to work with up front for the intake air run.

Thanks Rob, It is wider than the 302 for sure.

74ls1tr6

A few have asked how is Brenda's GT coming along, so here is some updates!

Worked on upgrading the LS1 with some good products.


Installed new LS6 ported oil pump along with Cloyes(adjustable) uprated timing gear set & chain. There is a visible difference in chain size for strength and gears are better machined. Set the gears up to stock setting and will let the cam run the advance that is ground in. The oil pump (not shown) will go over the crank small gear to drive it. 4 bolts hold it on.
2014-08-29 14.26.45.jpg

This is one of the 241 LS1 heads that came off and it is stock valve size.
2014-08-31 10.23.11.jpg

You can see the difference in valve size to the new PRC as cast 225 heads. These heads will out flow the heads on my TR6 quit a bit. Also you can see the blending of the chamber. These heads are 62cc chamber size. With a stock gasket will get about 10.8 compression.
2014-08-31 10.23.25.jpg

A 12 pound aluminum fly wheel with ARP bolts. Will be using a spec 2 + clutch and disk. Good for 550 hp.
2014-08-28 16.08.11.jpg

74ls1tr6

This is one of the intake ports(of the PRC as cast 225 heads) that show the bolt going down into the intake port. That bolt needs to be sealed good or the engine will make blue smoke out the exhaust on deceleration. With an opened up intake port (cnc or as cast heads for lsx engines) the rocker stand bolt holes go through into the intake ports. That is why my TR6 smokes blue because I need to reseal those bolts again.
2014-09-01 12.13.57.jpg

Change over to ARP rod bolts (ARP bolts in this photo not stock). This is a week link in the LS1 engine. If you plan on running your rpm up higher than 6500, It is recommended to change out the stock rod bolts. Procedure is to take one bolt out at a time and install a new one in it's place and torque to specs.
2014-09-07 11.25.06.jpg

New cam is installed. This is a  228/228 duration 588/588 lift 112 LSA from Texas Speed. New LS7 lifters and new uprated push rods. Also installed Comp Cams trunion upgrade to the rocker arms. At higher lift cams or higher rpm will cause a problem with the needle bearings to come out and end up in the oil pan or damage the engine. Highly recommend this upgrade for insurance that it won't happen.
2014-09-07 11.25.18.jpg

Timing chain(it is bigger and stronger looking than the stock one). You can see the oil pump hole that the pick up tube goes into. The O-ring that goes in there can't be pinched or wrong O-ring, will cause low oil pressure. So care needs to be taken with this O-ring.
2014-09-07 11.25.31.jpg

74ls1tr6

All the ARP rod bolts installed and torqued to spec. Both timing cover and back cover are aligned, so that the crank seals won't leak, and the oil pan won't leak when installed.
2014-09-07 11.25.38.jpg

Next the crank shaft splash guard. You can see where the pick up oil tube will be bolted to, the second stud on the left from the bottom of photo. The oil pick up on a Camaro is in the back portion of the block, great for cross member clearance.
2014-09-07 11.27.11.jpg

ARP oil pan bolts. You can see where the bolts go for the side main bearing caps. Ls1 aluminum blocks have 6 bolt main caps. 4 going into it and 2 on the sides of the block.
2014-09-07 14.14.37.jpg

Ls1 oil filter tucked very close to the block, a great swap engine tight and compact. Also a better photo to show the side main bearing cap bolt in the counter sunk bore hole.
2014-09-07 14.14.53.jpg

74ls1tr6

This is almost ready to come off the engine stand. You can see my custom fabricated 1 3/4" primary stainless steel headers (these took big hours of work to make). Used new ARP head bolt which can be re-used unlike stock LS1 head bolts. Stock head bolts are stretch to yield type bolts. Used ARP SS intake bolts. Used new ARP header bolts. Found a used Fast 92mm intake that was hand ported by Vengence Racing, from a guy around here on ls1tech.com parts section list. I knew the guy from a previous purchase. New Nick Williams 92mm Throttle body. Will start the engine with the stock 28lbs injectors, but soon after installing 42lbs injectors. I will need to get into the ls1 computer with my HP tuner software and change the numbers for the new injectors. Then flash the new numbers to the computer. Will be changing the ls1 coils to truck coils too. Will keep the stock fuel rails which are good for 500hp.
2014-09-01 15.37.31.jpg

Photo of the other side of engine.
2014-09-01 15.37.42.jpg

Will be using Vintage Air front runner assembly which compliments the engine bay real nice. It comes with a ATI super damper on the crank. It is a beautiful piece.
2014-09-08 18.26.01.jpg

Stock fuel rail with stock fuel injectors, soon to be changed after first start up.
2014-09-01 15.38.09.jpg

kstevusa

Looking Good, Calvin     appears you have the LS1 by the b_lls, I mean testicles  :-)

74ls1tr6

Here is the Super Damper and using a reusable ARP crank Damper bolt.

2014-09-07 14.14.27.jpg

Didn't take long to get the car off the rotisserie and the front and back suspension installed.
2014-10-12 09.04.42.jpg

Installed the engine and transmission all in one. Have some photos that I need to resize of Brenda helping me installing the engine. I'm under the car installing the bolt in cross member I fabed up. I already have the drive line cut down with new u-joints on both ends and balanced. Need to re-size some photos to continue. So the drive train is all done. I used a Camaro 3" aluminum drive shaft. I need to relieve or make a little more space at the transmission u-joint area. It is a roller now.
2014-10-12 12.29.17.jpg

MGBV8

I'd take the sawzall to my car for that engine!  :)
Carl

74ls1tr6


mgb260

Calvin, looking Good!  Looking forward to the air dam and flares!

Scott Costanzo

Looks great Calvin! I suspected you were busy getting things done! :)

TR6-6SPD

The car is OK but I do like the S.S. fridge in the garage.

74ls1tr6

That Fridge is stocked up with Salmon(from this years fishing) Beer, wine & water. I don't know if anyone saw me lying on the ground under the car photo, but look in the Garage, on the wall in the middle between the cabinets, there is a LCD TV to watch Mavtv. I thought Ken would like that too.  ;)

Ken Percival came by last week and dropped off a 1963 MGB Aluminum hood that is real light. He also brought over a fiberglass TR6 hood. So I gave him some parts he needed. Ken will be moving 12 hour drive away to Idaho. There is a thought move out of California?

Moderator

Have I mentioned lately how awesome this thread is? The latest photos look great, Calvin!
1971 MGB GT V8
Buick 215 w/ Rover heads, custom EFI & crank-fired ignition.
Custom front and rear coilover suspensions.

HealeyRick

This will be a beast.  Always enjoy following your progress, Calvin.

mowog1

Have you thought about a removable slam panel, Calvin?

Makes installation/removal of the engine a LOT easier.

Slam Panel_4.jpg

What slam panel.jpg

Slam Panel Removed.jpg

Radiator Setup_1.jpg

lawnvett

Gonna be a fantastic car, I'd love to go for a ride one day.

MGBV8

A ride? Not what I had in mind. ;)  Oh, Brenda.....can I pretty pleeeeese.....
Carl

74ls1tr6

Rick, I did think of doing what you did, but the bolt in cross member worked out well for me. Not as easy as your setup but easy with one swoop and its in there.

Charles

Calvin, Thanks for sharing, and please thank Brenda for taking the pictures also. I have looked through all of the pictures now will be 4 times, GREAT.
charles

74ls1tr6

Getting some stuff done!

Centered the Aluminum fuel tank that I purchased from Curtis. Drilled the holes right at 3" over to center tank. This will allow for dual exhaust.

Couple of photos of it mounted in the car.

2015-01-05 18.06.21.jpg


2015-01-05 18.06.49.jpg

The small hole is for the fuel vent , which I'm going to install a roll over vent fitting. Then a hose will be routed out under car.
2015-01-05 18.07.06.jpg

Finished welding in metal.
2015-01-09 15.38.23.jpg

74ls1tr6

This is where the in tank fuel pump is located. It is in the front of the tank in the corner on the passenger side. Nice easy access door.
A few photos of the pump, the plumbing in a 8"x 8" box, that the return line dumps fuel back in to keep full at all times. It is about 3/4 deep in the tank. That is a Walpro 255 lph fuel pump, that I upgraded to a 340 lph  Areomotive fuel pump with the same form factor as the Walpro pump. So it fits with the plumbing correctly.  

2015-01-09 10.26.33.jpg


2015-01-09 10.29.21.jpg

Fuel sender unit mounted in there.
2015-01-09 10.29.31.jpg

The plumbing is all in 3/8" tubing and AN fittings.
2015-01-09 10.29.48.jpg

74ls1tr6

The feed and return are market well.


2015-01-09 10.30.08.jpg

New Aeromotive pump number.
2015-01-09 10.30.26.jpg

Pump out of tank, ready to install the new pump.
2015-01-09 10.34.09.jpg

There is a rubber seal that mounts on the bottom of the fuel pump for vibration, and noise reduction. It fits right on the half round flange at the bottom of the tank. This Aeromotive pump is good for 550 HP fuel injected engine.
2015-01-09 10.40.03.jpg

More to come soon. I have been working on the exhaust under the car too.

psmg

Calvin,
I used the same tank but also fabricated an access panel in the trunk floor to allow entrance to the fuel tank . I had to replace a fuel guage sending unit and cut a hole in the trunk floor rather than drop the tank. Easier to do now rather than after completion.  That should be one nice ride when finished.
Paul