HVLP vs HPLV Spray Guns

Started by NCtim, June 18, 2012, 05:26:22 PM

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NCtim

Hiya folks,

What type of spray gun do you all prefer for bodywork, and why?

Cheers,
NCtim

roverman

Tim, fmhe, the HVLP is the way to go. Lower air requirements and overspray, less orange peel. Bottom of the bucket would be Harbor Freight,(Chinese) and top gun would be like a "Sharp", Binks/ etc. Price range from $20-$300 ? I use a cheaper gun primers/resins, and a quality gun for eye candy. Good Luck, roverman.

BWA

Does the HVLP  gun handle the thicker high build primers?  I am about to pick up a gun for priming my car and I want to use high build primer.

Cheers
Byron

IaTR6

For what it's worth, the instructor at a community college evening painting class advised a cheap gun works fine for primer as you will sand a good part of it off anyway. I believe he was referring to high-build primer. I have read that the Harbor Freight #43430 is not too bad for the price. I suspect, although the paint supplier could advise you, that something on the order of a 2mm for high-build, and nearer 1.4mm for finish coats. I'm sure others will add to this.
Dennis

Preform Resources

Tim / Dennis, you are correct if you want a primer/heavy materials type gun , a 2MM tip  would be best but not absolutely neccescary, the harbor fart gun ($12-20 ) works good for primer  you just have to open up the fluid nozzle a great deal, and reduce your material til it flows well,we use them  for primer, pva,and small paint jobs, since they are so cheap I keep one for doing clears on small jobs, but a good gun will perform better on base /clear coats particularly on overall paint jobs where you need the volume and atomization quality. The other advantage of the HF guns low price is , when you go to buy a replacement cup,the whole damn gun is cheaper than a new cup!
getting back to actual spraying,, you need to keep the primer wet  as you make your passes, so if it's hot use a slow reducer or wait til its cool enough to spray with whatever you have. If  you get a lot of dry spray  you will end up with porosity and end up sanding off a lot of primer to get rid of it. If you are priming and get runs don't sweat it, they will sand out, practice spraying when you're priming  then when you put the color on (hopefully) you will be able to put nice even coats of paint on !
Dave Craddock

NCtim

Thanks Guys! I'm looking at a Fuji Mini Mite HVLP turbine complete system and wanted to check before committing. I've got a cheap HLVP Lowe's something or other that's great for painting barns and decks but I wouldn't use it on a car.

Cheers,
NCtim

rsdgeorge

I bought a set of 3 guns from Northern Tool, they appear to be good quality but haven't used them yet.You get a small "touch up" gun with a 1mm tip and 2 large guns with a 1.4mm for finish coating and 1.8mm tip for priming. I got all 3 on sale for $99.95, the regular price is $169.95. Getting ready to use the large tip to prime. I am also waiting for Dave to introduce his rear valance made specifically for the RB.

MGBV8

QuoteI am also waiting for Dave to introduce his rear valance made specifically for the RB.

I wasn't aware of this. I'd be interested, as well.
Carl