Rear axles

[gergstuff]

Hello,

Sorting through my new project the TR-6 with a 4.3 Chevy V-6 transplant.  Trying to make a decision concerning the rear axles.

I think the engine makes about 200hp and since I am going to remove the differential to replace worn out rubber mountings I was wondering what to do about the axles?  Should I replace the u-jounts and call it good?  Should I buy uprated axles from Moss Motors for $400 a piece or do I go for the fancy Richard Goods bits for $750 a piece?

The car is just a driver and I have no intentions of trying to jack the HP up any more than stock.  Not sure what the stock set up is good for but I see indications that it isn't too much, maybe 200hp.  The uprated Moss units say they are good for 250hp which should be plenty but those Good axles sure are pretty and I would expect be able to handle anything one could throw at them.

I don't want to spend a fortune at this juncture, need to see if I can sort out all of the gremlins first but I sure like the car.  

Maybe go with new u-joints for now and see how the rest goes before sinking a ton of dough into uprated axles?

Perhaps others can share their wisdon here?

Thanks,

Craig

[Bill Young]

I'd stick with the stock rear for now and the new u-joints as needed. You need to drive the car a bit and find out if you are happy with the ratio to begin with. If that's not right, then the rest becomes a non issue because you're going to have to find another rear end to get the ratios you want and it would require new axles etc.

[BWA]

Craig I read somewhere on this forum that the TR6 diff should handle 200 hp as when these cars were raced the engines were modified to put out 200 hp.  The diff should be okay if you are not into drag racing and seeing how far you can light up the tires.  For the time being I am sticking with the stock diff and stock u-joints as my engine will be putting out 200 hp also.  If I decide that I want more power and go with a cam and a bored out throttle body then my hp will go up to 240 hp, at this point I might consider swapping out the diff and going with an R200 (Nissan diff) and Richard Good cv axles.

Cheers
Byron

[jellison]

TR diffs are fine to say 200bhp, but I would not recommend doing that on a 40 year old one, I'd want ire reconditioned (maybe a new CWP) at the very least. Ideally at that power you will need an LSD. I race a TR6 with a true 240bhp at the fly. You will need up rated drive shaft if hitting the power hard - they break fairly easily. Richard Good cv would be best though.

In the UK / Europe you can get much uprated Poly race mounts for the diff - I'd definately put a set of these in as the std one will rip out on NO time (See Moss on the web).