Where did you get your Hood Scoops??

[johnny wells]

Sure, Perry, no problem.

[perrymgbv8]

Thanks!
Its got some good reviews!

Mine is coming along nicely now.  Not to everyones taste. But its what I want for the car on the strip

[MGB-FV8]

Hey Johnny, I live in Alexandria not too far from you; what engine do you have?  I'd like to hook up with you some days.  There's a British car auto-cross club in Springfield, Ed Chin runs it, you should meet the guys.

Jacques

[jimbb88]

Carl-

I did not have room for a 3" filter. I used a 2" K & N which the local speed shop ordered for me. No one had one in stock. The K & N flowed plenty of air for a reasonably modified street motor.

[jimbb88]

Carl, a K & N Filtertop would more than make up for a shorter filter.

[MGBV8]

Hi Jim,

Originally, I planned to use one of those K&N XStrean tops. I returnted it to Summit after reading the installation instructions. They wanted more gap from the filter top to the choke air horn & from the filter top to the bottom of the bonnet than I had to work with. Might have still helped, though.

[perrymgbv8]

Mine now has paint and will be on the car tomorrow  

http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/bb270/mgbv8_photo/?action=view&current=Prostreetscooppainted008.jpg&newest=1

[johnny wells]

Perry, That'll look right going down the strip.  Nice look, I think.

[roverman]

Ok, I know that air cleaner height, can be a problem. I don't think I've seen anyone use the grille at base of windshield,(high pressure), for engine air? Grille could also rotate upward for a bigger gulp ? Obviously, heater and cabin air would be moved. roverman.

[ex-tyke]

I don't think I've seen anyone use the grille at base of windshield,(high pressure), for engine air?

Curtis has done this with his GT ....albeit with the heater delete option.

[perrymgbv8]

Thats a neat solution Curtis

Mine is now fitted.

[Cobra Killer 72]

Looks great Perry!!

[classic conversions]

I have a few Cobra-Jet scoops if anyone is interested, will let them go for a song and a Beer :-)

[pspeaks]

I'm faced with the hood scoop or bubble issue too.  Is it a rule of thumb that if you use Ted or Pete's front crossmember you can avoid it and if you use a modified MG member a scoop is in your future? I've reviewed as many pictures as I can and my engine is, I think, in the right place but I even have a distributor issue.  I kind of like the bubble idea best but don't want it to look like a ProStock car, however, we do what we have to do.

"P"

[MGB-FV8]

Have you considered purchasing a reproduction RV-8 hood?  It has a nice progressive bulge and may give you the extra clearance that you need.  I have Ted's front end and I had to use this hood to clear my distributor and GT-40 intake.

Before I found this hood, I would cruise big parking lots and look for cars with bulge type hood; you'd be surprised at how many could be grafted on the MG hood.  One that comes to mind was some Mitsubishi turbo.  I concur with your feelings about huge scoops; IMHO it brings too much attention for the street and distracts your eyes from the MG's outline features.  

I attend some of the vantage British car shows in my area (D.C.) and it really pleases me when I observe a purist paying attention to a conversion and I would consider an RV-8 hood being a true piece of history.

[pspeaks]

The fiberglass RV8 hood from BMC is by far my favorite and the price is pretty good, but is the bulge far enough forward for the distributor?

"P".

[MGB-FV8]

Paul, here's two photos that hopefully will give you an idea of what the hood is capable of covering.  I did have to cut the center brace which I will reinstall with a curve in it to follow the bulge.  You can lower your engine to the same height as Ted's front end, give him a call, maybe he'll make you a pair of mounts that you could weld on the frame; it's worth a shot.

[pspeaks]

Thanks Jacques, your pictures helped a lot.  What radiator did you use?  As I mentioned on a different post, I was thinking of re-bracketing my steering rack to lower the front of the engine a little for a number of reasons but I'm unsure what effect it will have on handeling.  I really like the hood and wouldn't mind using it even if I didn't have clearance issues.

"P"

[MGB-FV8]

I bought the radiator from Dave Michel; he purchased it from some street rod shop but could not use it.  The shroud is custom made by Mahaffey Motorsports ( http://www.mahaffeymotorsports.com/FanShrouds.htm  )  He advertises on Racing Junk. com;  The shroud has an internal electric fan is extremely efficient.  When I picked it up, he held a credit card in any four front corners and it would not fall off.

As far as relocating your steering rack it can be done however you'll have to recheck the steering geometry to avoid bump-steer, there's a couple of decent steering/suspension book out there to guide you through, check with Borders book store.  Although, I do think that there's other ways to sink down your engine.  What oil pan are you using?  That plays a key role in locating your engine.  Don't worry about sectioning the cross-member, my brother who lives in Canada owns a collision and frame shop and he thinks that the MG's cross-member is made very strong and a touch overbuilt but it doesn't mean that you can cut it in half.  The advice and photo given to you by Graham is great.  Avoid sharp cuts, arch your cuts.

I have a couple of Mustang 5.0 Liter oil pans, I'd be glad to give you one although I don't have the pick up tubes anymore.

[pspeaks]

The motor is a 78 Mustang 5.0 with double sump but the front sump is not too deep and will work OK I think.  Thanks for the pan offer Jacques, I'll keep it in mind if I have any more problems.  I cut the crossmember per the pictures and my balancer is almost touching the steering rack but if need be I can shim the front mounts to increase the clearance.  My Harley friends tend to get in the way of progress a lot but tommorow is forcast to be cold and raining here so I'm spending the day at the shop fabing up the transmission mount and crossmember; might even stay after and start rebuilding the firewall.

[rporter]

I like the rv8 hood. Looks like it is bonded to the original steel frame and I assume you will use the original latch system? I have the other hood with all fiberglass top and frame, what is a good way other than pins to latch the hood?

[pspeaks]

I was concerned about that too because I want to stay away from hood pins if possible; in fact I would rather modify my hood.

"P"

[mowog1]

I've seen the RV8 bonnet available from BMC (and now Mantell Motorsport as well).

It is a well designed, well finished, well reinforced piece of art.

Yes, I believe that the "power bulge" extends far enough forward to allow clearance for of the distributor, etc.

You can also use factory latch mechanisms.

Additionally, my bonnet strut kits will work with this product.

Contact Brian or Pete for availablility and pricing.

[pspeaks]

Thanks Rick!  I certainly intend to use the hood struts.  About 20 years ago I took the rear hatch struts from a Volvo station wagon I found in a junk yard and put them on my GT hatch.  I don't remember what year it was but it was one of the best things I've ever done for the little "B" right after doing shock mods on all four corners.

"P"

[kenzmyth]

Since I was going more for the 60's hot rod look, I went with the GT350 unit from Speedway. I know that some will think it a bit much, but since my hood was far from perfect... and the scoop was relatively cheap...