Nissan CA18DET in Sunbeam Alpine

[bashby]

New to this site (looked at the photos periodically though).  I bought a Series V Alpine out of Oregon almost 2-years ago (after a disaster of a first attempt with a Series IV out of Las Vegas) and I am in process of swapping a Nissan CA18DET into my Series V Alpine (BTW I bought the car with a very tired Ford 2.6 liter V6 and C4 auto with 3.31 gears so, I do not feel guilty in any form).  The swap was done without modifying the engine compartment or steering linkage.  I had to fabricate an exhaust manifold and as I wanted dual exhausts those as well. Forced Induction via a Garrett GT2560R turbo with an intercooler (FMIC) and BOV. Power goes down from a Ford 8" with 4.11's and Auburn L$D along with the stock Nissan 5-speed.  The transmission tunnel was pretty butchered due to the C4 so fabrication was needed-the 5-speed shifter comes out where the ashtray was originally and falls perfectly to hand.  "Binders" are Wilwood 12.25" front and rear discs (with tophat parking brake) the OEM rear springs were retained, front spring rates changed to 450# and lowered the ride height;  with Spax shocks all around.  The radiator was re-cored to a 3-pass with 2-11" Spal pusher fans.  Fuel is via a 16-gallon tank (fits where the spare was), Walbro 225 pump feeding the motor. The seats are from  a 1990 Mazda Miata (with speakers and heaters).  The wiring is by AdvanceAuto-Wire. The wheels are 15x6 Minilites (4-5/8" BS) with BFG G-Force Sport 195/55-15's.  The Oil Cooler(s) are the heat sink type by Derale and mount under the right-side floor between the "frame" and transmission.  The Accusump mounts to the right of the engine intake and the remote oil filter directly below the steering links (moved it to add the thermostat for the oil cooler).  The bearings and seals on the 5-speed were R&R'd. The engine is going out for machining and hope to have it running by spring (not pretty but running).  
The roll bar is finished 1-3/4" 0.120" wall mild steel (initial concept from the Miata "Boss Frog" and I expanded on it), it is a bolt-in and is over built but I would rather that than the alternative...  The radiator piping is complete and am continuing to work on the fuel and brake lines.  I am rebuilding the front suspension while awaiting machining.
Fuel and brake lines are done, E-brake is done and all the "extra" holes are welded in.
She is going in for initial body work this weekend 04/24, soda blast and scrub.
The underside in chassis black, the engine compartment, cockpit and trunk will be shot with color.
Then I will install the motor (still waiting on conn-rods) and connect about a mile of wiring, once she is running and with no major? or problems then it is off to final paint probably in the late summer/early fall.
Looking at possibly using the ProCar Elite seats instead of the Miata's suggestions?

07/01/2010
Body was soda stripped, initial paint and body work is complete, all seam sealing is complete -engine bay, cockpit and trunk have been painted body color.  I am waiting for head parts for the motor and hope to have the motor completed by August (it has already been 18 -weeks..)
20July2010
Engine is done!  Covering the cockpit with "Damplifier Pro" (like Dynamat) for heat and noise abatement.  Rebuilding the front and rear suspensions-even though the rear will be removed again to set the pinion angle.  Psych-ing myself up for the wiring.

I have some photos on WebShots at http://community.webshots.com/user/s5alpine

20March2011
Front suspension is rebuilt, The pinion angle has been set to +2-nose up, engine is in and wiring has been completed.  Engine, transmission, front suspension, differential and driveshaft (32") are in the car.  The engine has been running.  The car is up getting painted should be back by late-April.  Then tuning, interior, 1k break-in and retune (at 15 psi)!

[Moderator]

Welcome to the message board.

What a great project!  I enjoyed the WebShots photos... and I hope you keep taking lots of snapshots because it's a really neat and obviously very unusual build.  I'll definitely be bugging you for a "How It Was Done" report when you pronounce it roadworthy again.

[bashby]

Car is about 95% done, lack the door seals, side windows and window seals. I* have about 2000 miles on her, 200WHP, 176 lb-ft.  Gets up and goes too.  I have many photos located at http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/573533795qiTiQI

[mgb260]

Hey Bill, Good to see you here! I'm on both boards also. This is the best one for posting pictures.(Thanks to Curtis!) You ought to use the "How it was done form" or move some of your pics over to the project page(or both). Car looks excellent!

[bashby]

The 1st motor was "built" incorrectly (suspected bearing/tolerances), ate the rod and main bearings at 2275 miles... rebuilt (new crankshaft, 84mm CP pistons, rings, ACL bearings, oil pump, water pump, seals etc.) have 238 RWHP/213 lb-ft torque at 5,800'asl on a 100°F day and 4,700 miles on it.  Pretty quick too not too shabby for 1850 cc's.  
The car weighs 2,500# and balance side-side and front-rear is very good.
The aluminum radiator is by Wizard Cooling as the re-core was coming apart at the seams.
Had some issues with the crankcase breather that I finally worked out (the KISS principle is better).
Working on installing a 4-link with coil overs on the rear and eventually coil overs on the front.
Changed the 12" rotor$ out for 11" as I had some wheel interference issues.
Removed the Accusump and oil coolers as I had a nagging oil leak (I really liked the concept but, the lack of space made things difficult).
Had the Nissan 5-speed rebuilt as 2nd gear let go, beware of what you get out of Montreal and also locally as I had paid $600 to a shop to R&R the seals and bearings but they did nothing.
The ACTclutch assembly had trouble holding under WOT so that has been changed out for a Clutchmasters FX300 (16-hours labor to do so).
The tires are now Dunlop Star Spec's 195/50-15's in front and 205/50-15's rear and they are excellent!
The Miata seats were recovered using a kit by Mr. Mikes.
The gauges are by SpeedHut in Orem Utah.
The door panels, rear surround, tonneau and carpet were done by F&H upholstery in Wheatridge.

[triumphtr2]

What a fantastic build. Great workmanship. How long did it take you ,since there is tons and tons of work there? Way to go. Tim

[bashby]

25 March 2013
I have fabricated and installed a triangulated 4-link with coil overs (250#/in springs) to replace the Romanesque rear suspension; not only does this significantly improve the ride and handling it also removes some 50# from the rear of the car. Am working on replacing the front springs and shocks with coil overs too.
Still need to install the window and door seals along with the side windows.  Even though my Miata seats are heated I need to figure out the heater return plumbing.

I shaved the bumpers  (no over-riders) and had them re-chromed by Paul's Chrome in PA, they did a very nice job.
I mounted some motorcycle mirrors within the wind wings as I did not want to drill the body and like the cleaner look (besides the mirrors have a great field-of-view).

So far this has been a 5-year project and I estimate that I have over 2,000 hours in this car...

Webshots has changed so, I can send an invite to view the photos if interested (from Smile-Webshots).

[bashby]

[bashby]

Have 6,300 miles on new motor, was out for a drive and decided to make some 30-70 mph and 30-80 mph runs in 3rd gear (2500-6500 RPM).  I got 7.06 seconds 30-70 mph and 8.11 seconds 30-80 mph.  This repeated 3-times.  I do not come on full boost (15psi) until 3500 RPM.

[Moderator]

I went for a spirited ride in Bill's Alpine last night. Folks, the photos and descriptions above don't do this car justice!

Gorgeous, refined, sophisticated, and of course VERY quick. It's the kind of car that makes you reevaluate things... I found myself thinking "Why would anyone want a Tiger when an Alpine can be this awesome?" It's a paradigm shifter.

[bashby]

Curtis, Thank you!
Went and had the car 4-point weighed today.
The rear has 250#/in coil overs and a triangulated 4-link, the front is currently 450#/in springs and Spax shocks.
without driver, 14 gallons fuel: 2,510# F/R  1,193/1,317  47.5%/52.5%
LF: 607#
RF: 586#
LR: 637#
RR:680#
with driver, 14 gallons fuel: 2,686# F/R 1,256/1,430  46.8%/53.2% with 48.3% cross-weight
LF: 668#
RF: 588#
LR: 709#
RR: 721#

[IaTR6]

Bill, You mentioned soda blasting, and as I am currently researching paint removal, I would be interested in your comments. I find opinions posted saying no paint manufacturer will warrant paint applied after soda, (not that they would cover me) but others that have been doing it without issue for years. Apparently the cleaning process, using PickleX, Holdtight, or some such is the cure. What was your experience?
Thanks,
Dennis

[bashby]

After Soda blasting they have to really air and wash the car down.  When they did mine I had them use the HoldTight 102 (they had never used it before), while it did prevent surface rust for 6+ months it put a surface prep on the metal that necessitated scrubbing (I scrubbed the car with Acetone and Scotch-brite prior to taking it back for the exterior paint) they scrubbed the car again before they were confident that there would be no paint adhering issues; that being stated they had been using Soda blasting without any issues for over a year on exotics, show cars and restorations.  They now use walnut shells as they found that the cleaning is easier and usually there is little issue with surface rust here in Colorado (unlike Houston).

[IaTR6]

Bill, Thanks very much for the reply. I have found a blaster that can do ground glass, and he adds Holdtight to the blast water (dustless process). I may do the engine compartment that way to evaluate.
Dennis

[Bratfink]

Nice work.

I originally tried a KA24E engine in my Singer Vogue, but I just couldn't make it fit. I am most impressed you got it all under the hood of the alpine.

[bashby]

I installed the front suspension coil overs a while back, I wish I have done this before having many sets of springs made...  The triangulated rear suspension with coil overs while great did tear the uni-body sub frame at the upper control arm attachment points, as this area was never designed for intended to support a lateral load in this manner it was mea culpa.  I have since repaired the torn metal, reinforced the area with 11ga. steel and added a 1"/0.12" wall steel tube between the 2-rear rails therefore preventing this from ripping again; it should be quite robust and never be an issue again!  I found the rips (thankfully) prior to them completely letting go (it takes 10-times the force to start a tear as it does to propagate one) because I was unhappy (anal) with how the rear axle was sitting under the car (duh, it had shifted 1/2").

[bashby]

Seriously considering a wood Dash from Prestige Autowood, did away with the OEM heater and added a gauge.  Any thoughts whether the gauges should be in-line or staggered? Photo of wood dash is for TR6, for wood appearance an stagger only.

[BlownMGB-V8]

The closer you stay to the OEM layout the easier it will be to get a wood panel that matches.

Jim

[bashby]

Took the car to a Tune and Dyno (Sean at Solid Tech) 251RWHP and 251Lb-Ft Torque. Previously my peak HP (238HP) was at 6800RPM and now it is at 6400RPM (factory redline is ~7400RPM, motor built to take ~8500RPM). HP & TQ cross at 5250RPM with peak TQ at 5000RPM. This was a 4th (1:1) gear pull with 90 octane pump gas at 5300'asl. Setting the rev limiter to 7k. Drives very well, idles smooth and pulls
 I had a "stutter" starting at ~4500RPM and it is gone, think it was caused by spark plug gap (too much), A/F ratio and fuel quality
Had her weighed a while ago...
The rear has 275#/in coil overs and a triangulated 4-link, the front has 550#/in coil overs.

 without driver, 14 gallons fuel: 2,510# F/R 1,199#/1,311# 47.8%/52.2%.
 LF: 599#
 RF: 600#
 LR: 645#
 RR:666#.
with driver, 14 gallons fuel: 2,683# F/R 1,265#/1,415# 47.2%/52.8% with 49.0% cross-weight (LR+RF/total weight).
 LF: 665#
 RF: 602#
 LR: 712#
 RR: 703#

[Twin Turbo Tiger]

Bill I seen your car at the Dyno edge and it was very well done. I'm glad Sean got it tuned.
That shop also tunes my car but the owner Chris Groves does my tuning he he one of the best.
I put down 700 RWHP on 12-13 boost and thru a auto trans.
These are really fun cars and i enjoyed mine since 1972

[bashby]

Jerry,
Thank you, Sean did a good job.  Having driven my Alpine with 251 RWHP and Torques I cannot imagine what 700 RWHP is like on this short coupled car
I am still adjusting to having relocated to Albuquerque, the trials and tribulations of wind and dust...
I have installed a Rosewood dash into my Alpine since having tuned.
I am thinking about selling her...

[BWA]

Bill your car is awesome, why would you want to sell it?
Would you ever get the money you put into it?

Cheers
Byron

[bashby]

Byron,
I am certain not even close to the $$$$$ spent.  Convertible is not really suited for Albuquerque, between the wind dust etc.  But, I do like her and she is fun, unusual and what I wanted to build (not initially though as I was first considering a TR6 with a Nissan VQ motor..).

[BWA]

It sounds like Albuquerque has a similar climate to Calgary Alberta.  We don't get the heat you would get but it is windy and dusty.
Another option you can consider to make the Sunbeam work is get a hardtop.  The only caveat is you would then need air conditioning as the interior would get quite toasty.  I am not sure if you would have room under the hood for AC.
I am a TR6 guy and they do have large engine bays.  TR6's also look really good with the factory hardtop.
If you do go to a TR6 I know it will be built to the same quality as your Sunbeam.

Cheers
Byron

[bashby]

Byron,
Well, we do not have the cold or snow (which I miss) as you do in Calgary.  I have the factory steel hardtop for the car but, there is no room under the hood for AC without substantial modifications.
Thanks, I do get a bit carried away, over build, over do...
Regards,
-Bill